It is my understanding your vehicle has distributorless ignition and
sequential fuel injection? If it cranks good but won't start, check for
spark and injector pulse, while cranking. The ASD relay supplies primary
voltage to the coil pack and to the injectors, you need to check for that
voltage with the engine cranking, when the problem is happening. I believe
the computor has to see the proper cam and crank signal or it won't ground
the ASD relay, among others. If you can check for trouble codes, that
might head you in the right direction. I believe the cam and crank sensors
are hall-effect sensors, you can check for an rpm signal from those
sensors. I guess there are several ways to check them. You need to test
everything while the problem is happening.
Shadowz - 15 Apr 2005 14:28 GMT
> It is my understanding your vehicle has distributorless ignition and
> sequential fuel injection? If it cranks good but won't start, check for
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> sensors. I guess there are several ways to check them. You need to test
> everything while the problem is happening.
I just went out and bought a digital Multi-Meter so I could start checking
voltages that are recommend from the Haynes manual I have for this car. I
hope to check some of these things this weekend. Most of the time when this
condition happens I'm by myself. This makes it difficult to test anything
while cranking. If I drive it and come back home then my wife can crank the
car. So I'm going to drive around the block a few times so I'm close to
home. Yesterday I did the old ignition key on, off, on , off, on trick to
have the check engine light flash the stored codes. The only codes that
flashed were 12 and 62. These codes were not useful in helping drill down
the problem.
> This car starts great in the morning and after cooling down for about 2
> hours. But after driving it for a short 10-15 minute drive the car will not
[quoted text clipped - 50 lines]
> Any idea on what to look at would be helpful at this point. My next action
> is to take it to another auto shop for a second opinion.
**Update
Bad Crankshaft Position Sensor. I replaced this part and the car is back to
normal.
Using a multimeter to check voltage parameters referenced in the Haynes
manual. I decide this may be the problem. After reading some newsgroup
postings. I came across one about using a heat gun to heat up the sensor to
sort of simulate driving conditions where the crankshaft sensor would heat
up and go out of range. Sure enough after heating with the heat gun for a
few minutes then placing the sensor back in and starting the car it wouldn't
start. Just like what happens when driven and then stopping and not
starting. I tried to cool it down fast by placing it in the freezer for a
few minutes, but it still needed more time I guess. So I headed over to
Advance Auto Parts before they closed on Sunday and picked up a new
crankshaft sensor. After putting the new sensor back in, the car started
right up. I monitored the voltage and noted on my chart I was working from
the various voltages from key on to start. This way I have a guideline to
follow if I come across this problem in the future. After a test drive to
Wal-Mart and the car starting back up I was satisfied I fixed the problem.