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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / General Car Topics / April 2005

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94 Chrysler Concorde Starting Issue

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Shadowz - 14 Apr 2005 14:43 GMT
This car starts great in the morning and after cooling down for about 2
hours.  But after driving it for a short 10-15 minute drive the car will not
start.  The car will crank and crank but not start.  Two weeks ago after an
hour and half drive back home from by father in-laws house the car actually
stalled coming off an exit on a busy road in downtown Pittsburgh.   It would
not start, I had a towing company come and get it.  After I got it home and
let it set for 2 hours it started right up like nothing happened.  Last week
my other vehicle had an issue with the battery at my wife's work place.  She
had a co-worker bring her home.  We had no choice to drive the car so I
could fix the other vehicle.  After cleaning the battery contacts on the van
it started up fine.  Went to start the car and again it cranked and cranked.
While my wife tried to start the car I could hear a weird type buzz coming
from the system computer.  Using my test light I probed the connector pins
on the cord going to the Ignition Coil.  It wasn't lighting up leading me to
believe the weird buzz and no electrical pulse meant the computer was
faulty.  I had checked this previously when it would start to see if the
test light worked when probing the connector and it worked then.  I decided
to leave the car there till the morning.  Sure enough the next morning we
went to get the car and it start right up.  I took the computer out and went
to Advance Auto to buy a new one.  It finally came in yesterday.  I put the
computer in and took it for a test drive.  Sure enough after I got to the
location I was heading to and turned of the car and them immediately
starting it.  All it did was crank and crank but wouldn't turn over.  I
waited at Wal-Mart for almost 2 hours and it still wouldn't start so I
tapped a few things on the engine.  Then the car sounded like it wanted to
start but didn't have enough power and the display lights kept dimming down
and then back to bright rapidly.  I decide to disconnect the battery cables
for the heck of it and then put them back on and retighten them.  After a
few cranks attempts the car started.  After getting two blocks to my house
the car stalls at a stop sign.  I was able to push the car to a spot on the
side of the road and walked home 2 hours later I walked back to the car and
it started right up.

One other thing to note and I think this is some how related to the problem
some how.  When you crank the car in this condition and you get out of the
car.  Every time I touch the door I get shocked.  For an experiment when I
had the car computer out I tried to crank the car and I still got shocked
when I got out and closed the door.

This problem happened the first time the next day after I bought the car.
We bought the car a few miles down the road from our house and only had
driven it the day we bought it short distances.  The next day we decide to
drive out to the mall.  After going to one more store that was in the
opposite direction a half our away.  I went in and came back out and the car
would crank and not start.  After a 10 minute wait it started. I then drove
it one more day after that to see if would do it again and it did.  I took
it back to the deals to have them check it out and they could not duplicate
the problem our even find anything wrong that would be causing this problem.
At least that is what I was told from the dealers.  Since then and its only
been a month it has happened every time the car has been driven and the wait
time is getting longer.

Any idea on what to look at would be helpful at this point.  My next action
is to take it to another auto shop for a second opinion.
jdl - 15 Apr 2005 05:00 GMT
It is my understanding your vehicle has distributorless ignition and
sequential fuel injection? If it cranks good but won't start, check for
spark and injector pulse, while cranking. The ASD relay supplies primary
voltage to the coil pack and to the injectors, you need to check for that
voltage with the engine cranking, when the problem is happening. I believe
the computor has to see the proper cam and crank signal or it won't ground
the ASD relay, among others. If you can check for trouble codes, that
might head you in the right direction. I believe the cam and crank sensors
are hall-effect sensors, you can check for an rpm signal from those
sensors. I guess there are several ways to check them. You need to test
everything while the problem is happening.
Shadowz - 15 Apr 2005 14:28 GMT
> It is my understanding your vehicle has distributorless ignition and
> sequential fuel injection? If it cranks good but won't start, check for
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> sensors. I guess there are several ways to check them. You need to test
> everything while the problem is happening.

I just went out and bought a digital Multi-Meter so I could start checking
voltages that are recommend from the Haynes manual I have for this car.  I
hope to check some of these things this weekend.  Most of the time when this
condition happens I'm by myself.  This makes it difficult to test anything
while cranking.  If I drive it and come back home then my wife can crank the
car.  So I'm going to drive around the block a few times so I'm close to
home.  Yesterday I did the old ignition key on, off, on , off, on trick to
have the check engine light flash the stored codes.  The only codes that
flashed were 12 and 62.  These codes were not useful in helping drill down
the problem.
Shadowz - 19 Apr 2005 14:03 GMT
> This car starts great in the morning and after cooling down for about 2
> hours.  But after driving it for a short 10-15 minute drive the car will not
[quoted text clipped - 50 lines]
> Any idea on what to look at would be helpful at this point.  My next action
> is to take it to another auto shop for a second opinion.

**Update

Bad Crankshaft Position Sensor. I replaced this part and the car is back to
normal.

Using a multimeter to check voltage parameters referenced in the Haynes
manual. I decide this may be the problem. After reading some newsgroup
postings. I came across one about using a heat gun to heat up the sensor to
sort of simulate driving conditions where the crankshaft sensor would heat
up and go out of range. Sure enough after heating with the heat gun for a
few minutes then placing the sensor back in and starting the car it wouldn't
start. Just like what happens when driven and then stopping and not
starting. I tried to cool it down fast by placing it in the freezer for a
few minutes, but it still needed more time I guess. So I headed over to
Advance Auto Parts before they closed on Sunday and picked up a new
crankshaft sensor. After putting the new sensor back in, the car started
right up. I monitored the voltage and noted on my chart I was working from
the various voltages from key on to start. This way I have a guideline to
follow if I come across this problem in the future.  After a test drive to
Wal-Mart and the car starting back up I was satisfied I fixed the problem.
 
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