And FWIW, having had many AC problems with old cars over the years, it is my
experience that the "weakest link" theorem applies, but augmented, when it
comes to AC stuff.
Mostly if you had a leak in your condenser, it is possible that when the
system was evacuated, debris/oil&dirt/whatever that was formerly under
pressure and crammed in some o-ring junction or whatever, or even a deformed
o-ring itself, may have been allowed to "relax" and expose a new opportunity
for a leak. So when you recharge it, the original cause for the leak is
gone but a whole new one (probably at a hose joint) is created by no fault
of the repairman, except that they didn't thoroughly check for leaks when
they reassembled the system.
This has happened to me numerous times and is why I began doing my own AC
repair work to a limited extent, since once something goes south, it can be
a very long road of repeated sequential leaks before basically every
junction is broken down and refitted with new o-rings. It's so much that
it's probably worthwhile as soon as the system leaks 100% (like with a hole
in the condenser) and requires evac, if the car's nearly 10 years old like
your Protege, to pay not only for the condenser repair, but while the system
is open, replace all of the o-rings at every fitting. While this may seem
expensive, IMHO in the long run it can save you money because you won't have
to repeatedly pay for evac & recharge and new material each time the next
weak link is broken. Doing the o-ring replacement over the whole system
will also allow the tech to discover any hoses or whatever that merit
replacement while he's in there.
Ricky - 07 Jun 2005 21:31 GMT
Thanks for the reply guys -
An update on the situation:
The problem was diagnosed as a bad new condenser. Shop was good about it -
though it took them forever to get the replacement (they still have the car
as of today, Tuesday afternoon but I'm getting it back tonight)
However, they have located a problem with one of the condenser fans
(passenger side) - he will do it for $250 (dealer part + one hour @ $70) but
I can get the fan online for ~$50 and am confident I can put it in easily.
I am certainly not against the idea of cleaning up the whole system - except
for the fact that the car is worth at best $3K and we're only trying to get
through the summer with it. As far as the new drier should have been
installed remark, well I find that a bit disconcerting that it wasn't
suggested but at the same time I did express a desire to get it going as
inexpensively as possible.
As far as I can tell this guy has a good reputation - and is real busy right
now as we are also in TX and it seems like everybody's AC has gone bad.
Thanks again for the tips,
Ricky
nitpik - 12 Jun 2005 16:41 GMT
As long as the shop puts the system on a vacuum pump for a good long time
and there are no leaks, the filter/dryer shouldn't be a problem. They are
in there to pick up that last little bit of water vapor that can be tough to
extract with the vacuum pump, due to constraints in time and other reasons.
If the system has been open to atmosphere for a while, then the filter/dryer
will be saturated with water and won't pick up anymore. But since you just
want to go another season, then try to get them to leave it on the pump as
long as they can .. leave the car with them for a while if you can.
> Thanks for the reply guys -
>
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>
> Ricky