> >Would replacing the torsion bar springs help lift the front end back to
> >where it once was and thus solve these problems? Or is the problem
> >elsewhere?
> Torsion bars are adjustable. Look to the other end of the bar (not
> at the wheel end ) and find the lever that has a large bolt in it.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> and it helps to jack the front wheels off the ground to help release
> tension.
Thank you. I saw the long bolts, with a nut and a locking nut. As far
as I can tell the nuts are all the way tightened. I will wash the mud
and rabbit blood off (hee!) and let the bolts dry, then spray with
WD40 or other oil and then remove the lock nut.... and then losen
the top nut and torque the bolt to see if the bar lowers. Golly I hope
it does--- replacing the springs looks like tedious work. The bolts
have not been twisted since they were put on 14 years ago.
Thank you for the suggestion. All I need is about two inches of lift.
Still, it does not explain why the front end is sagging. I assume it is
because the torsion bar springs are shot.
> One will assume you have the sense to use stands or other blocking
> materials and not crawl under the vehicle with only a jack supporting
> the vehicle in the air.
Thank you for the suggestion. :-) I use four nine-inch-square red cedar
blocks to keep the automobile from crushing me to death (or worse,
maiming / crippling me). The nearest other person is 3 miles away and
probably would not hear my dying screams.
I'll take your suggestion and do it Saturday, and then post the results
here so that any one in the future will be able to look up and see if
it
worked or not (in case they have a similar problem).
I'm just confused about why the front end sagged. The only think I
can think of is the worn springs.
> Pete
cselby@mts.net - 06 Jan 2006 16:38 GMT
>I'm just confused about why the front end sagged. The only think I
>can think of is the worn springs.
Worn torsion bars, worn bushings, damaged frame member under the
adjusting bolt. And Yes, It is very tedious to have to replace the
torsion bars especially on an older (rusty?) car. In a pinch, you
can spacer up the frame member where the adjusting bolt end sits -
bolt or weld it in.
Good luck
Pete
desertphile@hotmail.com - 08 Jan 2006 22:58 GMT
cse...@mts.net wrote:
> >I'm just confused about why the front end sagged. The only think I
> >can think of is the worn springs.
> Worn torsion bars, worn bushings, damaged frame member under the
> adjusting bolt. And Yes, It is very tedious to have to replace the
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> Good luck
> Pete
Google News is messaged up yet again, so I don't know why I even bother
trying to reply. My assigned news server does not carry this newsgroup.
Let's see.....
Yesterday I went and borrowed a 22mm socket and a 22mm closed wrench,
and with the help of a creasant wrench and a "cheater" pipe I got the
lock nuts off the bolts. I then used the 22mm socket with a 1/2-inch
square drive bar and I tightened both torsion bar adjustment bolts as
tight as they would go. I then put the lock nuts back on and dropped
the pickup back on its feet.
The result: the front end is now about 3 inches higher than before, and
the problem of the wheels scraping the inside of the wheel wells is
gone; the wheels no longer scrape when making a tight turn. Weehee!
Thank you Pete. There will be some extra in your pay check this week.
:-)
DMR