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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / General Car Topics / July 2006

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Wiring problem - needle in a haystack

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georgenetterly@nospam.com - 07 Jul 2006 08:15 GMT
Wiring problem.
89 Caprice station wagon - automatic - 307 engine

For the last few days I have had a problem.  Sometimes I turn on the
headlights and they dont work.  Othertimes they are fine.  But it's
not just the headlights.  The dome light, horn, clock, radio, power
windows, and other stuff dont work.  Yet, the engine starts and runs
fine.  The brake lights also work as well as the red lights on the
dash when I start the car, but not the lights that light up the dash.

I thought I may have had a bad ground.  I removed the ground wire from
the body (goes to the battery), and cleaned it.  I also cleaned the
battery terminals.  That did not solve it.

I have had a starting problem going on for several months, whereas the
starter did not engage in the flywheel every once and awhile.  I
decided that maybe the solenoid was not only the starting problem, but
possibly the reason for this "lights out" problem.  I got a new
starter and replaced it.  I cleaned all the wire terminals that go on
the starter before replacing them, and made sure the ends were not
loose on the wires.  After replacing the starter the lights worked
fine, so I thought I solved the problem.  Last evening I stopped in
town, and when I started the car, there were no lights again.  While
the car was sitting, the dome light, clock, etc. all came back on by
themselves.  As soon as I flipped on the headlight switch, the dome
light, clock etc. went dead again.  

I have confirmed that the ground is good to the car body, because to
get the car home (at night), I knew I had to somehow get headlights or
face the police, so I spliced a wire from the headlights supply wire,
directly to the battery.  (just the hot lead).  The lights worked
fine.  While driving home, suddenly all the things in the car started
to work again (horn, dash lights, clock, radio, etc).  

This really has me puzzled.........
What the heck could be causing this?
I downloaded a wiring diagram from autozone.  It shows several fusible
links.  But WHERE ARE THEY LOCATED?  Are they inside the harness?
I sort of thought that if a fusible link burns out, that's it.  Unless
somehow one of them is barely touching internally.  It;s bad enough
trying to trace something like this, but whenever I start to trace it,
the power comes back on again.  Talk about frustrating....

Anyone have a clue where those fusible links are?

***
One other thing.  There is a steel line that is connected to a vacuum
line on the top of the engine, drivers side / rear of engine.  It's
not connected to anything under the car.  I saw it when replacing the
starter.  It ends right near the exhaust pipe heat valve (that thing
that flips right under the ex-manifold.  Does anyone have any idea
what this line is for?  It's about a 3/16 dia. steel line with a
pointed end (below).

Thanks

George
KjunRaven - 07 Jul 2006 12:14 GMT
> Wiring problem.
> 89 Caprice station wagon - automatic - 307 engine
[quoted text clipped - 53 lines]
>
> George

fusible links are right there at the solenoid, small wires hooked to the
positive stud with battery cable.......that was my first thought after
reading first paragraph........they do break internally with no visible
evidence at times........kjun
georgenetterly@nospam.com - 07 Jul 2006 18:50 GMT
>> Wiring problem.
>> 89 Caprice station wagon - automatic - 307 engine
[quoted text clipped - 58 lines]
>reading first paragraph........they do break internally with no visible
>evidence at times........kjun

Thanks for the reply.  The question now is how do I replace them?

George
KjunRaven - 08 Jul 2006 15:10 GMT
>>> Wiring problem.
>>> 89 Caprice station wagon - automatic - 307 engine
[quoted text clipped - 62 lines]
>
> George

you can either buy a fusible link and solder it in or buy a roll of
fusible link wire on a spool. ive replaced so many thru the years (burn
jobs mostly) i use a spool.......insure that is the problem by wiggling
suspected wires and see if circuits are affected before bothering on a
guess tho......................kjun  btw: steel line mentioned sounds
like GMs original vac. supply for heat riser
georgenetterly@nospam.com - 09 Jul 2006 11:13 GMT
>>>> Wiring problem.
>>>> 89 Caprice station wagon - automatic - 307 engine
[quoted text clipped - 77 lines]
>guess tho......................kjun  btw: steel line mentioned sounds
>like GMs original vac. supply for heat riser

Thanks for the reply.  I jiggled every bit of wiring harness, banged
on the fuse block and pretty much beat the crap out of the wiring and
I can not get the lights or other stuff to go dead again.  This is
worse than if it just died completely, because I know it will happen
again, and it could be at the worst time.  Maybe I should just replace
all of the fusible links because I dont know what else to do.  In the
meantime I have a bare spot on the headlight feed wire and am carrying
around a short wire with alligator clips on the ends.  At least that
way I can jumper the lights directly to the battery.  Intermittent
problems are the worst.  The lights have worked for 2 nights now ????

OK on that steel tube.  Yes, it ends right next to the heat riser, but
I dont see any hole to put it.  Is it even needed?  If not, should I
plug the tube (is it a vacuum leak)?  I have always had a bad idle
with this car.  It runs fine, just idles crappy.  I can not find any
other vacuum leaks and did everything to the carb I could.  Seems the
hotter the engine gets, the worse the idle.  I've just learned to live
with the idle issue, but maybe that steel tube is the culprit.

Thanks
George
KjunRaven - 09 Jul 2006 13:32 GMT
>>>>> Wiring problem.
>>>>> 89 Caprice station wagon - automatic - 307 engine
[quoted text clipped - 102 lines]
> Thanks
> George

remember george, im not saying it is a link failure. im simply telling
you where they are!.....for diagnostics I would 1) unhook all links 2)
hook them up one at a time to figure out which link FOR SURE controlled
the circuits involved. 3) if a common link suppies all circuits that fail
start backprobing until open circuit is found. intermittants are a bitch
and you will probably have to do all tests while system is
faulted......also, when system fails hook a jumper cable up between
battery ground and clean frame point to insure ground path.........heat
riser prob?? = make sure riser is open and wire it to stay that way. i
imagine it is open or you would have driveability probs and overheating.
plug all vacuum leaks..................kjun  
cselby@mts.net - 07 Jul 2006 19:06 GMT
>Wiring problem.
>89 Caprice station wagon - automatic - 307 engine
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>fine.  The brake lights also work as well as the red lights on the
>dash when I start the car, but not the lights that light up the dash.

Undo the bulkhead connector (the big taped up wire bundle)  at the
fire wall and inspect ALL the spade pins for burn marks.
Particularly on any of the larger wires.   Sounds like the problem is
there.   GM uses the same size pins for all wire sizes and current
loads and these are udersized.  Not a new situation.

If your any good at soldering, run a bypass wire(s) around the burned
one(s) and solder it in place .  Do not use spade  or crimp
connectors.   Make sure the new wire(s) are protected from the
firewall metal.
 
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