>On Apr 16, 2:24 am, danny...@nospam.com wrote:
>> While tossing lumber in my 1990 Ford F150 Pickup truck, I knocked out
>> the rear window on the passenger side. Yeah, I deserve idiot award,
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>> Another thing, how the heck do those slide window pieces in the middle
>> come out. I'm sure they do (somehow).
They aren't meant to come out easily, or it would make breaking into
the truck childs play. There's usually a non-obvious way to take
apart the tracks and move the slot open. (I sure wouldn't put it up
in a public forum to instruct the crooks...)
>> The rest of the window and the frame are all fine, I just need that
>> one piece of glass. I'm hoping I dont have to remove, and/or replace
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>That's what you have to do.
> You pull out the entire assembly, then disassemble it.
It's theoretically possible to fix it on the truck IF you have
fourteen hands and can work in 3D from both sides... It'll be a WHOLE
lot simpler to dismount the window and have it flat on the bench with
a nice chunk of carpet as padding, and you can apply force as needed
without breaking something else.
The key to the solution is the thin rubber wedge strips and the trim
garnish strips on the glass surrounds, you remove them to get some
slack in the main rubber gasket. Then the main gasket can be folded
/just/ enough to get the glass in and out of the frame, one side at a
time.
And there are many tricks to getting it to pop in, like polyethylene
plastic wedges and strips that won't chip the glass, wedging a piece
of rope into the glass channel and pull the rope to use as a zipper,
etc. And various magic lubricants. I don't claim to know them all,
but people who run auto glass shops sure do - they can have them in
and out in 10 minutes.
> Good luck
>finding a used one. Good sliders disappear quick in the junkyards.
> Sliding rear windows are a lot like upfit parts on conversion vans,
>motor homes, etc. Finding parts is often a futile effort. You might
>want to look into a complete window asy. from your local accessory
>shop.
They may be able to order a new piece of glass, there are companies
overseas still making replacement window glass for vintage and antique
cars. They can also order the piece custom-cut and tempered from a
local glass foundry, but the minimum charge can be $75 - 100. If you
can track down other people that need that particular glass, you can
run several at once to meet the minimum order and cut the price.
A complete new aftermarket slider might be less expensive than
fixing the old one. Investigate all options before deciding.
--<< Bruce >>--
dannydee@nospam.com - 16 Apr 2008 20:08 GMT
>>On Apr 16, 2:24 am, danny...@nospam.com wrote:
>
[quoted text clipped - 69 lines]
>
> --<< Bruce >>--
Thanks for the advice.
Lets say I want to remove the whole slider window. How do I do it?
I'm assuming there are some sort of clips on the inside, is that
correct? Then I imagine the window comes off on the outside.
I suppose I'll have to remove it and then fix it. I am also
considering seeing if I can cut some plexiglass to fit in there. It
looks to be a possibility. I made a temporary patch out of 1/8"
masonite wood. After cutting the shape, it fit in there pretty well,
although I didn't waste a lot of time on it, and the piece of masonite
was a half inch too narrow to begin. Duct tape solved that for the
moment, I just want to keep out rain (and my farm cats) for now.
This is a farm truck, so I dont want to spend a lot of money on it,
but I do need to get some kind of window in there. Maybe plexiglass
would be a better solution anyhow, since it seems more durable????
Some silicone caulk around the edges does wonders too.
Dan
Bruce L. Bergman - 17 Apr 2008 07:22 GMT
>Lets say I want to remove the whole slider window. How do I do it?
>I'm assuming there are some sort of clips on the inside, is that
>correct? Then I imagine the window comes off on the outside.
Haven't taken one out, but IIRC they are the same design - there's
a wedge strip in a slot of the main surround gasket, just like the
little rubber strip that holds the window screen in the screen frame.
When you pop out the strip, the gasket will flex enough to pop out of
the hole in the car body.
Sometimes the chrome garnish trim around the window is shoved into
the slot along with the wedge strip, so you take it off first.
Whenever working with glass, be somewhat gentle with it. It will
take some serious bending or compressive stress to break it, but you
do NOT want to chip the edges, especially on tempered. The chip can
start a crack on plain or laminated glass.
And tempered glass doesn't just crack or scratch (like with a glass
cutter) it shatters. Funny stuff, the center core is under pressure
and the outer surfaces under tension, part of the cooling process.
The stresses relieve themselves by shattering into crumbs.
They make special tools for glass installers, a lot of plastic
coatings and HDPE wedges and hooks, etc. Everything metal is padded,
and sharp points are shrouded. You don't want an "Oops Moment" on a
$500 windshield you have to replace if broken. If you use regular
tools, tape everything.
>I suppose I'll have to remove it and then fix it. I am also
>considering seeing if I can cut some plexiglass to fit in there. It
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>would be a better solution anyhow, since it seems more durable????
>Some silicone caulk around the edges does wonders too.
Farm truck? Well, why didn't you say so!! That makes it easier.
Go get a chunk of Lexan® (polycarbonate sheet) the right size, cut
to exact size with a saber saw, and make a replacement window for the
slider out of that - it'll work just fine and be just as safe.
You just have to be more careful when cleaning the windows to NEVER
WIPE IT WHEN DRY or it'll scratch all to heck. Plexiglas® (acrylic
sheet) is cheaper and will work, but it's much easier to scratch.
--<< Bruce >>--