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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / General Car Topics / August 20051975 Oldsmobile 98, 455ci engine fan / fan pulley questions
Greetings, My friend has a 1975 Oldsmobile 98 with the 455. Recently I was helping him replace the waterpump. We ran into a problem I am hoping someone can help with. When I started the work he already had the fan and fan pulley removed. I proceeded in removing the waterpump. After installing the new waterpump we went to put the fan pulley back on but ran into problems. Imagine this, the waterpump bolts upto the block. On the front of the waterpump 4 studs need to be threaded in. The pulley and fan look like they slide onto the studs and are secured with nuts. The problem we ran into is the fan pulley seems abnormally close to crank pulley. So close in fact there is virtually no room between the two to installs the belts. The second strange thing is the studs don't seem long enough... After sliding the pulley and fan onto the studs there are not enough threads available on the studs to secure the nuts to. The reason we are replacing the waterpump is because the front part where the studs thread into shattered and his fan blade flew off. I am wondering if we are missing a part or perhaps are using the wrongs studs. Any advice or guidance is appreciated. Regards, Andrew > Greetings, > [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > Regards, > Andrew Does a belt have to go between the 2 pulleys? Or does it encircle both the pulleys? Some setups are quite close by design. Is the hollow shaft in the fan binding on the pump 'stub' which is supposed to guide the fan over it and flush against the front surface of the pump flange?Have the studs been screwed in too far, like to where they exit the rear plane of the flange? Flush to the rear surface of the flange is quite sufficient. Bolts with lock washers sometimes (depending on clearance needed to install a wrench) may be substituted--or longer studs in any case. At this point, it's hard to say, but if the studs were too short when last assembled, their coming free may be what caused the flange to shatter. Check the fan carefully, as you don't want to use one that is bent and out of balance. HTH & good luck, s FWIW AND IMO: That's a really strong engine you're working on--good for 300K miles w/a couple of timing gear/chain sets, cleaning oil return holes under the vc-gaskets a time or 2, and maybe replacing the pot-metal rocker pivots once with quality metal ones! >> Greetings, >> [quoted text clipped - 46 lines] > pivots > once with quality metal ones! This gives me a lot to go on next time I am around his place taking a look, thanks for the information. Not sure if the belt goes between the two pulleys (doh!) the routing diagram was missing. He took the belts off and assured me they went between the pulleys though he may very well be wrong. I will have him purchase a manual so we know for sure. The studs were in fact screwed in to the point where they exited the rear plane of the flange. It is okay not to have them threaded in all the way? I was afraid this would cause them to unthread over time thus causing the fan to potentially fly off. I'm not familiar with these engines at all, I will have to pass along the advice on keeping it alive to him, thanks! Regards, Andrew > >> Greetings, > >> [quoted text clipped - 60 lines] > fan to potentially fly off. >>>snip<<< The lock washers, IMPORTANT THEY BE ON, keep it snug. Just screw them in to where the end is flush w/the rear plane of the flange. Good luck, s |
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