After replacing my window motor several months back, The new one started
to play up. It was stuck down for a week until I could get to fix it over
Christmas.
After removing it I found it full of water (half a cup full). I stuck it
in a warm oven for half an hour and then sprayed with a water dispersant
until it turned over ok. It has now been taped with a water proof tape
over the plastic connector housing.
I'm guessing that the majority of window problems encountered by us are
mainly on the Drivers side because the connector end faces upwards. The
drivers side I think faces downwards, and so shouldn't full up with water.
Hope this helps someone in the future.

Signature
Mitch - 1995 Z28 LT1 M6
terminal_crazy@sand-hill.freeserve.co.uk
Lancashire England
Bruce Chang - 05 Jan 2006 20:00 GMT
> After replacing my window motor several months back, The new one started
> to play up. It was stuck down for a week until I could get to fix it over
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Hope this helps someone in the future.
Drilling a hole to let the water drain out isn't an option?
Terminal Crazy - 05 Jan 2006 21:46 GMT
> Drilling a hole to let the water drain out isn't an option?
Probably not as you would need to drill into the motor or drive shaft,
(without stripping the motor you would fill it with shavings).
There IS a hole in the end already that allows water in, why would I want
another one ?

Signature
Mitch - 1995 Z28 LT1 M6
terminal_crazy@sand-hill.freeserve.co.uk
Lancashire England
brxsep - 19 Jan 2006 02:53 GMT
Another thing to do is CLEAN the tracks and apply a dap of grease on
the rollers. A little on the gears as well. Paid $ 300 for my local
Chevy dealer only to have the roller pop off the track. They would fix
it for free. But, I tried my hand at it only to find the tracks were
not cleaned off.
The main cause of motor failure in the 4th generation is the overload
protection built into the motor. Its a very thin metal strip that
bends when heated, such as the motor going to the end of travel and the
driver not taking his/her finger off the switch. Over time, the metal
become more sensative and pops off after only an inch of travel. The
fix is a new motor or hard wire a jumper in place of the metal strip.
But, with a jumper you have to rembember to take your finger off the
switch once the window is up or down (daa.)
Sounds like you have the leak fix. Take care.
brxsep - 19 Jan 2006 02:54 GMT
Another thing to do is CLEAN the tracks and apply a dap of grease on
the rollers. A little on the gears as well. Paid $ 300 for my local
Chevy dealer only to have the roller pop off the track. They would fix
it for free. But, I tried my hand at it only to find the tracks were
not cleaned off.
The main cause of motor failure in the 4th generation is the overload
protection built into the motor. Its a very thin metal strip that
bends when heated, such as the motor going to the end of travel and the
driver not taking his/her finger off the switch. Over time, the metal
become more sensative and pops off after only an inch of travel. The
fix is a new motor or hard wire a jumper in place of the metal strip.
But, with a jumper you have to rembember to take your finger off the
switch once the window is up or down (daa.)
Sounds like you have the leak fix. Take care.