checking flow of coolant

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Bram Stolk - 13 Apr 2006 09:30 GMT

Hi there,

I'm suspicous about the cooling in my 75 camaro.
When it's in traffic, standing still, the temperature meter goes off
the scale, beyond 250.
As soon as it is riding again, it goes to 150.

- The radiator is new
- Coolant level is good
- The radiator fan is turning
- I feel pressure in the large radiator tube, it is not too hot to touch
- Radiator is luke warm
- Coolant container is cool

Also I noticed that the coolant container has two marks:
one for hot, one for cold. Well, my level is constant, regardless
the temperature of the engine.

There is probably a pump that pumps the coolant? Could it be broken?
How do I check for the proper flow of coolant?

thanks!

Bram

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JimV - 13 Apr 2006 13:03 GMT

> Hi there,
>
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> Bram

Clutch fan? Might be time to change the clutch. Just because it's
turning doesn't mean it's providing sufficient air flow.

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Cy Welch - 13 Apr 2006 19:39 GMT

>> Hi there,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> Clutch fan? Might be time to change the clutch. Just because it's
> turning doesn't mean it's providing sufficient air flow.

I would have to agree with Jimv there. If it's cooling when going down
the road and not when sitting still, that would mean that the fan is not
moving enough air at idle. This is usually a cluch fan problem, which
is not always easy to fix. I have had to go through as many as 3 before
I got a new one that was actually good. You might consider switching to
an electrical conversion as it will both lower the load on the engine
and do much better at moving the air at low speed.

It's also possible that the water pump is not moving the coolant well
enough at idle, but that is far less likely than the fan based on the
symptoms.

Signature

Cy Welch
89 Camaro RS 5.0 TBI
98 Passport
03 Malibu

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bram stolk - 16 Apr 2006 17:51 GMT

> Clutch fan? Might be time to change the clutch. Just because it's

It has no clutch.

> turning doesn't mean it's providing sufficient air flow.

This, I do not understand.
You mean that it turns too slowly causing insufficient airflow?

It spins quite fast at idle, and the flow is very noticable.
The airflow is towards the engine, though, not towards the
radiator. Is this the correct direction?

Thanks,

Bram

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The ÇLøne - 17 Apr 2006 01:56 GMT

185 is perfect ... under that you have incomplete combustion ... also
not enough heat to burn off any moisture the motor takes in ... over 200
is not good either .. motor oil starts to char at 215 ... with the warm
weather this time of year try a 180 degree thermostat ... a radiator is
a heat sink and nothing more .. it has a certain ability to dissipate
heat ... check and count the number of cores in yours ... 2 is common
.. 3-4 are available .. you can probably see the unused rows on your
radiator side tanks ... a 4 core is the ticket for a good running small
block , 3 is ok ¿ ... if you want to check that indeed your coolant is
circulating , just undo ( when cold ) the cap on the radiator , let the
car come up to temp at idle ... when the thermostat opens there will be
a surge of coolant ... at what temp that happens is the key ... it
should be with in 5 degrees of the thermostats temp rating .. there are
hi-flo thermostats , and water pumps made by many aftermarket co.'s that
might help also .... more h.p. means more heat ... a 2 core radiator
might do a 2 barrel 305 nice ... add a 350 , headers , cam , carb , etc.
.. more power = more heat .. all produced inside the same block of iron
.. which now wants a bigger heat sink .... and the <hint> of all , get
yourself a mechanical temp gauge ... factory electric one's , now some
30 odd years old are nothing to believe in ... the mechanical type
read's if the motor is running or not ... heat soak ( full temp. motor
shut off ) should never go past the 215 mark for the oil/motor's sake
.. the 185 mark is like a sweet spot for'a Chevy .. you'll feel it ! ..
just don't smile or the VAT police will get ya <g>

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