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Car Forum / Chevrolet / Chevrolet Corvette / May 2004re Edelbrock Performer RPM package in Mid Year.
hey all, just wondering if anyone on the list has accomodated his/her midyear with the edelbrock performer rpm package. i had it installed in my '64 a while ago and would like to know if anyone else has put one in and what their thoughts where... any help greatly appreciated. regards Harry '64 coupe downunder Dont have a midyear, but do have a 1970 BB Coupe. I have the alum.Edelbrock Oval Port Heads with RPM AirGap Intake; its a very very good combo for high performance street . The flow of these Heads were VERY noticable vs. the stock iron heads...with just feeling the exhaust coming out of the exhaust tips. The AirGap (dual plane) Intake is much better for street and warmup of the engine than the single plane i had on there. I used to have the Edelbrock 800 cfm Carb on it..but i elected to go the route of SpeedDemons 750 dp, mech secs...which offered a tremendous improvement on acceleration without a decrease in fuel economy . Used to have the Edelbrock flat tappet hydr. cam in there, but, elected to go with a Lunati Roller Hydr. cam/Roller Lifters with greater lift and duration --- this was another noticable performance increase . I like Edelbrock products . They obviously put alot of emphasis on R and D and the quality is there. For high performance street , you cannot beat them. Dave (hi Diode) DaveinIllinois@webtv.net stopped picking his nose and reading kiddie porn long enough to babble: <Dont have a midyear, but do have a 1970 BB Matchbox car. <snip BS> Why would you bother with all of these alleged performance modifications to drive 30 MPH in the left lane? Makes about as much sense as anything else that comes out of your fool mouth, child molester.  SignatureShut up, Dave. -|>|- Diode -|<|- '68 L-79 Coupe '79 Triumph Bonneville 'stopped picking his nose and reading kiddie porn long enough to babble: <Dont have a midyear, but do have a 1970 BB Matchbox car. <snip BS> Why would you bother with all of these alleged performance modifications to drive 30 MPH in the left lane? Makes about as much sense as anything else that comes out of your fool mouth, child molester. SignatureShut up, Dave. -|>|- Diode -|<|' ME: Whats this...more malicious uncontrolled anger ??? Its not necessary -- just start going to church with your wife and youll change in time. hey Dave, thanks for e-plying... after i had mine done, i didn't drive it much straight after. when i did end up giving it a good run on the highway, i noticed definite increase in coolant temps. after double checking with my mechanic, he assured me that all gaskets etc where as specified in edelbrocks install guidez etc. after talking with edelbrock themselves, they mentioned that coolant temps should actually DECREASE with this combo. speaking to mine and other mechanics, they said you should expect a temp INCREASE as you're pushing more horsies out of the engine and therefore more heat. did u notice any increase or decrease in your temps after putting in the Air-Gap setup in your '70 BB? any help greatly appreciated regards Harry '64 coupe downunder > 'stopped picking his nose and reading kiddie porn long enough to babble: > <Dont have a midyear, but do have a 1970 BB Matchbox car. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > necessary -- just start going to church with your wife and youll change > in time. 'did u notice any increase or decrease in your temps after putting in the Air-Gap setup in your '70 BB? any help greatly appreciated regards Harry' ME: Harry, No i didnt notice any increase or decrease in temps afterward...but i do have twin electric fans on my 1970 which are out of a 1990's LT1 Vette and they move much more airflow than a standard belt drive factory fan. The biggest improvement i noticed besides performance, was a smoother engine warmup . I think youll be happy with the RPM package if you go that route. Check your hood clearance though if you have the stock hood. Dave 'did u notice any increase or decrease in your temps after putting in the Air-Gap setup in your '70 BB? any help greatly appreciated regards Harry' ME: Harry, No i didnt notice any increase or decrease in temps afterward...but i do have twin electric fans on my 1970 which are out of a 1990's LT1 Vette and they move much more airflow than a standard belt drive factory fan. The biggest improvement i noticed besides performance, was a smoother engine warmup . I think youll be happy with the RPM package if you go that route. Check your hood clearance though if you have the stock hood. Dave hi Dave, i had this setup done a while ago and am happy with it... the problem i have is during WOT on mild to warm days, the temps go FSD. during colder weather as per now downunder, the huge electric fan i have(off a local GM Holden sedan) stuck to a 2-3y.o. custom made aluminim radiator works reasonably well. although, the only way i can maintain this stable temp in cooler weather, is running NO thermostat in the cooling system. trying to run any type of thermostat or even a restrictor type unit, will cause the temp gauge to peak on the freeway. i also found that curing the 600cfm Holley i have currently sitting on top, of a lean setting, helped reduce temps a little. i'd like to fix this small issue before i throw a 750cfm on top. the only thing i haven't done as yet is tear down the custom radiator (or replace it) which i'm looking to do next. as a side note, the RPM intake is taller and the air-cleaner with a drop base was too close to the hood and would get heat soaked after half hour city driving and then stall on me. temp fix was to get the K&N (Xtreme?) airfilter for the top of the air-cleaner assembly which let in more air and stopped it stalling. the assembly would still hit and scratch the inside of the hood. i fixed that late last year with a mid-year BB stinger hood i found locally. thanx again for your help regards Harry '64 coupe downunder 'did u notice any increase or decrease in your temps after putting in the Air-Gap setup in your '70 BB? any help greatly appreciated regards Harry' ME: Harry, No i didnt notice any increase or decrease in temps afterward...but i do have twin electric fans on my 1970 which are out of a 1990's LT1 Vette and they move much more airflow than a standard belt drive factory fan. The biggest improvement i noticed besides performance, was a smoother engine warmup . I think youll be happy with the RPM package if you go that route. Check your hood clearance though if you have the stock hood. Dave What did the Edelbrock Tech have to say about your dilemna ?? That is a real strange one indeed . Maybe the 'Aussie air' is different down under ! I hope you can get to the bottom of it. To accomodate the additional height, i went with an L88 hood with fresh air plenum -- has the air filter in it. Dave hey Dave, yep, the air downunder is probably a "little" different! this would change if fuel costs came down and let a lot more Big Blocks out onto the street!! ;-) us small blocks have to push a little more weight, hehe. it's been a while, but the edelbrock tech said the package "should" drop the temps down around 10deg. or so, but don't quote me. with aluminium parts, i would assume that this is because they can transfer heat faster/better to the passing coolant, which is gonna be useless if the rad is on the edge or isn't doing it's thing.... anyway, until i can confirm my rad is running reasonably efficient, i'll be just poking in the dark, as i've looked at most other issues and nothing appears untoward. car goes well and should rock when i put the bigger carb on. it's winter douwnunder atm so now's the time to rip it out and see wtf is going on. regards Harry '64 coupe downunder > What did the Edelbrock Tech have to say about your dilemna ?? That is > a real strange one indeed . Maybe the 'Aussie air' is different down [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Dave Well...lets take a walk thru a little checklist to see if we can get those engine temps lower : Have u : 1. Sealed up the sides of the radiator/condensor real tight ? 2. How is the lower radiator hose ...does it collapse at 3000 rpm in neutral ??? 3. Have you thoroughly cleaned the cooling system opening all block drains and using a strong cleaner ? 4. Are you running mostly distilled water ? Use no more than 25% antifreeze. 5. Have you tried adding a bottle of Redline Water Wetter to reduce temps ? 6. Do u run synthetic oil for cooler operation ? 7. Did you power wash the radiator fins /condensor fins real good ?? 8. Hows the fan belt ? Does it slip ? 9. Hows the timing ? Its not retarded is it ? 10. Any ignition misses at any rpm ? 11. Hows the water pump...original one ?? Consider a Stewart Pump..moves a ton of water compared to the stock one. If you get much much better cooling with the thermostat removed (greater water flow) , then, id suspect your water pump is not up to par. 12. Your friend didnt go and dump some Fosters Lager in the radiator when he got drunk the other week did he ?! Dave from 'up over' DaveinIllinois@webtv.net had his head firmly up his a.s when he said... > Well...lets take a walk thru a little checklist to see if we can get > those engine temps lower : > > 9. Hows the timing ? Its not retarded is it ? The only thing retarded is you, dickhead. Why are you talking to this guy like he's a friggin 2 year old? Yea, I know you have a thing for 2 year olds, but that's another story. This man (Harry) is obviously not an idiot, why are you treating him like one? I guess because you're as dumb as a sack of doorknobs you think everybody else is too. Signature-|>|- Diode -|<|- '68 L-79 Coupe '79 Triumph Bonneville Shut up, Dave. hey Dave, > Have u : > > 1. Sealed up the sides of the radiator/condensor real tight ? yes, gone round the whole rad with rubber and sealed as best i can. > 2. How is the lower radiator hose ...does it collapse at 3000 rpm in > neutral ??? replaced not long ago as the rubber on the old one had expanded and spring/wire inside was rusted. replacing it made absolutely no difference. > 3. Have you thoroughly cleaned the cooling system opening all block > drains and using a strong cleaner ? i had thoroughly cleaned the system as best i could "without" removing all the drain plugs. pushed water thru the thermostat opening on intake with clean water coming out the water pump. if there was any trace of crap i was gonna do it, but water looked as good coming out as going in.... made no difference to symptoms.... > 4. Are you running mostly distilled water ? > Use no more than 25% antifreeze. tried varying degrees of coolant and water mixture, no difference... . > 5. Have you tried adding a bottle of Redline Water Wetter to reduce > temps ? yes, possibly very minor decrease but no difference overall... > 6. Do u run synthetic oil for cooler operation ? yes, with no discernible difference... > 7. Did you power wash the radiator fins /condensor fins real good ?? had the rad pressure tested by the maker and was told it "looked" ok but doesn't mean that all water paths are open inside and u can only tell by ripping it open. hosed the rad and cleaned the rad fins as much as possible with standard hose and water gun etc... looks pretty clean but haven't pulled out the microscope... made minor or very little difference > 8. Hows the fan belt ? Does it slip ? belts replaced/tightened , made no difference... > 9. Hows the timing ? Its not retarded is it ? had machine dyno tuned not long ago when we discovered a few bugs. fixed the lean setting on the carby which did help, along with a faulty plug and coil lead, timing was pretty much spot on and nothing too out of whack. replaced all plugs and leads etc., made some difference... > 10. Any ignition misses at any rpm ? none after the above was done... > 11. Hows the water pump...original one ?? Consider a Stewart > Pump..moves a ton of water compared to the stock one. > If you get much much better cooling with the thermostat removed (greater > water flow) , then, id suspect your water pump is not up to par. engine was rebuilt 3-4 yrs ago and new pump put on. i thought it may be a cause but was told if it failed, you'd know about it ie/ noisy or totally gone etc. could be a good move in replacing it anyway. not sure if Stewart pumps around here but will check it out. > 12. Your friend didnt go and dump some Fosters Lager in the radiator > when he got drunk the other week did he ?! ahhh, just wondering if u may have hit on something there, the possibilities are endless... :-) > Dave > from 'up over' i just got back from a drive on freeway and everything appeared ok, ie/ stable temp and NO sign of overheating with outside temps around 10degC (50degF?) and one fan running... i know from previous testing that if i put the thermo back in, it will screw things up and temps will climb up. when temps were 30+degC(85+degF?) around summer time, i would have to pull over at least 2 or 3 times on this same drive!??!! it's weird, but i don't think i will see any major change unless the rad and now possibly the water pump get checked out thoroughly or replaced. again, thanx for all your help anyway, i'll post any news as soon as the wallet lets me. regards Harry '64 coupe downunder 'i had thoroughly cleaned the system as best i could "without" removing all the drain plugs. pushed water thru the thermostat opening on intake with clean water coming out the water pump. if there was any trace of crap i was gonna do it, but water looked as good coming out as going in.... made no difference to symptoms.... ' ME: BUT..did you use a 'strong' cleaner like Prestone ?? You really should remove the block drain plugs when you flush it out and do it with the motor idling and with the hose filling up the system at the same time. 'when temps were 30+degC(85+degF?) around summer time, i would have to pull over at least 2 or 3 times on this same drive!??!! ' ME: How do u know that youre 'actually' overheating ??? By going according to the water temp guage ?? maybe ITS faulty (?). Have you used an external thermometer and strapped it to the upper radiator hose to get the 'real' water temperature when you believe it to be overheating ??? If not, try this ... then go for a long drive on a warm day and let me know what you find for a temp. reading when you think its overheating (make sure you have an accurate external thermometer -- check it out in a glass of iced water first) . <I still think that Fosters mate of yours messed up your cooling system though. You need some new mates, mate ! > Dave hey Dave, some definite food for thought here and i appreciate yours' and everyone else's input.... i'll give these things a go and see where they take me. maybe a change of beer is in order? again, thanx for all your help regards Harry '64 coupe downunder 'i had thoroughly cleaned the system as best i could "without" removing all the drain plugs. pushed water thru the thermostat opening on intake with clean water coming out the water pump. if there was any trace of crap i was gonna do it, but water looked as good coming out as going in.... made no difference to symptoms.... ' ME: BUT..did you use a 'strong' cleaner like Prestone ?? You really should remove the block drain plugs when you flush it out and do it with the motor idling and with the hose filling up the system at the same time. 'when temps were 30+degC(85+degF?) around summer time, i would have to pull over at least 2 or 3 times on this same drive!??!! ' ME: How do u know that youre 'actually' overheating ??? By going according to the water temp guage ?? maybe ITS faulty (?). Have you used an external thermometer and strapped it to the upper radiator hose to get the 'real' water temperature when you believe it to be overheating ??? If not, try this ... then go for a long drive on a warm day and let me know what you find for a temp. reading when you think its overheating (make sure you have an accurate external thermometer -- check it out in a glass of iced water first) . <I still think that Fosters mate of yours messed up your cooling system though. You need some new mates, mate ! > Dave |
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