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Car Forum / Chevrolet / Chevrolet Corvette / August 2004Overheating problem
I was hoping someone might have an answer for me. I have a 94 coupe with 66k miles. It runs just fine on the open road, but gets pretty hot while standing still or in traffic. The water pump was changed recently and the radiator fluid is pretty clean. What do I do? John Probably nothing. As many have said over and over, the C4s often get to 220-230 and is considered normal for city and traffic conditions. > I was hoping someone might have an answer for me. I have a 94 coupe with 66k > miles. It runs just fine on the open road, but gets pretty hot while > standing still or in traffic. The water pump was changed recently and the > radiator fluid is pretty clean. What do I do? > > John Or bleed out the air if it's over what Tom said. > Probably nothing. As many have said over and over, the C4s often get to > 220-230 and is considered normal for city and traffic conditions. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > > > John What do you mean by bleed out the air? It's running up around 240-250. > Or bleed out the air if it's over what Tom said. > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > > > > > John On a refill or a pump change you can trap air in the system. There are bleeders in the block to allow the air out. I no longer have a C4 manual but yours should tell you where they are.  SignatureDad 04 C5 CE Z51 72 Shark Black/Black/4spd > What do you mean by bleed out the air? > It's running up around 240-250. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > > > > > > > John There is one bleeder on the bottom of the throttle body, drivers side underneath pointing out at an angle. Then there is one on the thermostat housing right where the top hose connects. Both are flat head screw caps. Just loosen the screw and let water dribble out. >On a refill or a pump change you can trap air in the system. There are >bleeders in the block to allow the air out. I no longer have a C4 manual but >yours should tell you where they are. > SignatureRic Seyler Online Racing: RicSeyler GPL Handicap 6.35 ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler remove –SPAM- from email address -------------------------------------- "Homer no function beer well without." - H.J. Simpson Do you think you could give me closer locations or an idea of what they look like? I'm no mechanic, but I'll bet I can turn a few screws. Thanks, John > There is one bleeder on the bottom of the throttle body, drivers side > underneath pointing out at an angle. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > >bleeders in the block to allow the air out. I no longer have a C4 manual but > >yours should tell you where they are. John: I've uploaded 4 photos to my web site that may help. http://www.cottonfamily.com Click on the blinking star on the right. The first two show the bleeder on the thermostat housing while the last two show the location on the lower throttle body on the driver's side. Sorry, I couldn't get my camera low enough to show it. I hope this helps. Regards, Chas. P.S. Thanks Ric, I couldn't find the second one either. > Do you think you could give me closer locations or an idea of what they > look [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > but >> >yours should tell you where they are. Yes, Thanks Ric. I found it finally. They had routed some wires through there and covered it up. SignatureCharlie !993 Corvette Convertible John: I've uploaded 4 photos to my web site that may help. http://www.cottonfamily.com Click on the blinking star on the right. The first two show the bleeder on the thermostat housing while the last two show the location on the lower throttle body on the driver's side. Sorry, I couldn't get my camera low enough to show it. I hope this helps. Regards, Chas. P.S. Thanks Ric, I couldn't find the second one either. "lkitesplit" <lkitesplit1023@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:z9KdnVFuboig7bfcRVn-rg@comcast.com... > Do you think you could give me closer locations or an idea of what they > look > like? I'm no mechanic, but I'll bet I can turn a few screws. > > Thanks, > > John > > "RicSeyler" <ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net> wrote in message > news:IOpWc.1479$cx.316@bignews4.bellsouth.net... >> There is one bleeder on the bottom of the throttle body, drivers side >> underneath pointing out at an angle. >> Then there is one on the thermostat housing right where the top hose >> connects. >> Both are flat head screw caps. Just loosen the screw and let water >> dribble out. >> >> Dad wrote: >> >> >On a refill or a pump change you can trap air in the system. There are >> >bleeders in the block to allow the air out. I no longer have a C4 manual > but >> >yours should tell you where they are. >> > >> > >> >> -- >> Ric Seyler >> Online Racing: RicSeyler >> GPL Handicap 6.35 >> ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net >> http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler >> remove -SPAM- from email address >> -------------------------------------- >> "Homer no function beer well without." >> - H.J. Simpson >> > > :-) Thank Charles for the nice pics. hehehe > Yes, Thanks Ric. I found it finally. They had routed some wires > through there and covered it up. SignatureRic Seyler Online Racing: RicSeyler GPL Handicap 6.35 ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler remove -SPAM- from email address -------------------------------------- "Homer no function beer well without." - H.J. Simpson Photos were a great help, thank you. Now, do I bleed with the engine hot, cold, running, or off? Thanks again, John > John: > I've uploaded 4 photos to my web site that may help. [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > > but > >> >yours should tell you where they are. When the engine is hot and the thermostat is open with water running through the whole system.. Crawl under the front of the car and look at the radiator for debris... And look into getting a HyperTech PowerStat thermostat... they allow a much higher volume of water flow.. >Photos were a great help, thank you. Now, do I bleed with the engine hot, >cold, running, or off? > > SignatureRic Seyler Online Racing: RicSeyler GPL Handicap 6.35 ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler remove –SPAM- from email address -------------------------------------- "Homer no function beer well without." - H.J. Simpson I cleaned the radiator. It had a lot of debris in there. Should the car be running when I bleed it, or just hot? Thanks, John > When the engine is hot and the thermostat is open with water running through > the whole system.. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >Photos were a great help, thank you. Now, do I bleed with the engine hot, > >cold, running, or off? Have it running and up to temp so there is pressure and flow in the cooling system. It shouldn't take much, just let it dribble for 10-20 seconds or so, (while idling) Do the lower one (on top of the TStat housing) first, then the higher one (on the bottom of the throttle body) last. Don't completely remove the screw heads, just loosen them enough (counter clockwise) to get coolant to dribble out for 10-20 sec. Then RE-TIGHTEN, don't forget that :-) And go buy a HyperTech PowerStat for your year model. It's very easy to install. Just have to get the rubber gasket properly fitted around the lip of the TStat. Or post here when you get ready to do it. We will walk you through it. >I cleaned the radiator. It had a lot of debris in there. Should the car be >running when I bleed it, or just hot? SignatureRic Seyler Online Racing: RicSeyler GPL Handicap 6.35 ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler remove –SPAM- from email address -------------------------------------- "Homer no function beer well without." - H.J. Simpson Thank you for all of your help. John > Have it running and up to temp so there is pressure and flow in the > cooling system. [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > >I cleaned the radiator. It had a lot of debris in there. Should the car be > >running when I bleed it, or just hot? Glad to! >Thank you for all of your help. > > SignatureRic Seyler Online Racing: RicSeyler GPL Handicap 6.35 ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler remove –SPAM- from email address -------------------------------------- "Homer no function beer well without." - H.J. Simpson Ric: I'm going to install a new radiator in my '94 this weekend. I presume I should I flush the system with plain water before I install the new one, but are there any special procedures, other than simply removing the output radiator hose and letting it flow for a few minutes. (After the antifreeze is drained, of course.) Thanks, Chas. > Glad to! > >>Thank you for all of your help. Be VERY carefull to avoid hosing down the Optispark! > Ric: > I'm going to install a new radiator in my '94 this weekend. I presume I [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >> >>>Thank you for all of your help. I learned that one when a water pump failed, hosing down the Optispark. I didn't think too highly of the water pump/Optispark design at that moment. Chas. > Be VERY carefull to avoid hosing down the Optispark! > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >>> >>>>Thank you for all of your help. I would get a bottle of the coolant system flush, the kind you have to drive the car a little while with. Follow the instructions, then do the radiater change. The bottle will say "aluminum safe" in the fine print of a compatible brand.. Get that gunky crap out of the block and heads before doing the Rad change. Take the radiater cap off and with the engine warmed up (t-stat open) to drain. That way you won't create a suction and get the most coolant out. >Ric: > I'm going to install a new radiator in my '94 this weekend. I presume I [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > SignatureRic Seyler Online Racing: RicSeyler GPL Handicap 6.35 ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler remove -SPAM- from email address -------------------------------------- "Homer no function beer well without." - H.J. Simpson Rick & Bob: Thanks for the tips. I may delay the change for a couple of weeks. I think I'm going to have Houston Engine and Balancing rebuild the engine, add a 383 Stroker kit and maybe Dart Pro 1 heads. If so, I'll change the radiator then. With a little more time to do the job while the engine is in the shop, I'll probably go with either the DeWitt or Be Cool dual core radiator. I think the fan shroud may have to be trimmed with the DeWitt and perhaps the Be Cool as well, but I'm not sure. Thanks again guys, Chas. I would get a bottle of the coolant system flush, the kind you have to drive the car a little while with. Follow the instructions, then do the radiater change. The bottle will say "aluminum safe" in the fine print of a compatible brand.. Get that gunky crap out of the block and heads before doing the Rad change. Take the radiater cap off and with the engine warmed up (t-stat open) to drain. That way you won't create a suction and get the most coolant out. Charles L. Cotton wrote: Ric: I'm going to install a new radiator in my '94 this weekend. I presume I should I flush the system with plain water before I install the new one, but are there any special procedures, other than simply removing the output radiator hose and letting it flow for a few minutes. (After the antifreeze is drained, of course.) Thanks, Chas. "RicSeyler" <ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net> wrote in message news:rk6Xc.19103$N11.11579@bignews5.bellsouth.net... Glad to! lkitesplit wrote: Thank you for all of your help. -- Ric Seyler Online Racing: RicSeyler GPL Handicap 6.35 ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler remove -SPAM- from email address -------------------------------------- "Homer no function beer well without." - H.J. Simpson SignatureRic Seyler Online Racing: RicSeyler GPL Handicap 6.35 ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler remove -SPAM- from email address -------------------------------------- "Homer no function beer well without." - H.J. Simpson Be verrrry careful with that engine rebuilt.... Right off the bat, Dart Pro 1 Heads aren't for torque, they have giant intake and exhaust runners and small chambers, PLUS raised runners and exhaust ports... So you will have problems fitting stock headers. Those heads are for 4000rpm and up.... and will be a DOG at low RPM with no grunt.. I would contact Bill Mitchell's / World Products and look into a properly designed combo for street torque.... You can really get a lump if you don't do it properly, and there aren't many "aftermarket" shops that can put together a good street setup with torque in the proper RPM range. They usually try to sell you on HP, but that HP comes at too high an RPM.. Cam choices along with heads will make or break a street engine... You want intake velocity NOT volume for a street engine.. Those giant runner heads aren't for a crisp street engine... 450HP and 450FP isn't that hard to get on a pump gas small block now a days, BUT it has to be done with the proper parts..... > Rick & Bob: > Thanks for the tips. I may delay the change for a couple of [quoted text clipped - 47 lines] >> >> SignatureRic Seyler Online Racing: RicSeyler GPL Handicap 6.35 ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler remove -SPAM- from email address -------------------------------------- "Homer no function beer well without." - H.J. Simpson Thanks again Ric. I'll contact Bill Mitchell. Regards, Chas. Be verrrry careful with that engine rebuilt.... Right off the bat, Dart Pro 1 Heads aren't for torque, they have giant intake and exhaust runners and small chambers, PLUS raised runners and exhaust ports... So you will have problems fitting stock headers. Those heads are for 4000rpm and up.... and will be a DOG at low RPM with no grunt.. I would contact Bill Mitchell's / World Products and look into a properly designed combo for street torque.... You can really get a lump if you don't do it properly, and there aren't many "aftermarket" shops that can put together a good street setup with torque in the proper RPM range. They usually try to sell you on HP, but that HP comes at too high an RPM.. Cam choices along with heads will make or break a street engine... You want intake velocity NOT volume for a street engine.. Those giant runner heads aren't for a crisp street engine... 450HP and 450FP isn't that hard to get on a pump gas small block now a days, BUT it has to be done with the proper parts..... Charles L. Cotton wrote: Rick & Bob: Thanks for the tips. I may delay the change for a couple of weeks. I think I'm going to have Houston Engine and Balancing rebuild the engine, add a 383 Stroker kit and maybe Dart Pro 1 heads. If so, I'll change the radiator then. With a little more time to do the job while the engine is in the shop, I'll probably go with either the DeWitt or Be Cool dual core radiator. I think the fan shroud may have to be trimmed with the DeWitt and perhaps the Be Cool as well, but I'm not sure. Thanks again guys, Chas. "RicSeyler" <ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net> wrote in message news:o8qXc.33316$%n4.24155@bignews6.bellsouth.net... I would get a bottle of the coolant system flush, the kind you have to drive the car a little while with. Follow the instructions, then do the radiater change. The bottle will say "aluminum safe" in the fine print of a compatible brand.. Get that gunky crap out of the block and heads before doing the Rad change. Take the radiater cap off and with the engine warmed up (t-stat open) to drain. That way you won't create a suction and get the most coolant out. Charles L. Cotton wrote: Ric: I'm going to install a new radiator in my '94 this weekend. I presume I should I flush the system with plain water before I install the new one, but are there any special procedures, other than simply removing the output radiator hose and letting it flow for a few minutes. (After the antifreeze is drained, of course.) Thanks, Chas. "RicSeyler" <ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net> wrote in message news:rk6Xc.19103$N11.11579@bignews5.bellsouth.net... Glad to! lkitesplit wrote: Thank you for all of your help. -- Ric Seyler Online Racing: RicSeyler GPL Handicap 6.35 ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler remove -SPAM- from email address -------------------------------------- "Homer no function beer well without." - H.J. Simpson SignatureRic Seyler Online Racing: RicSeyler GPL Handicap 6.35 ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler remove -SPAM- from email address -------------------------------------- "Homer no function beer well without." - H.J. Simpson -- Ric Seyler Online Racing: RicSeyler GPL Handicap 6.35 ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler remove -SPAM- from email address -------------------------------------- "Homer no function beer well without." - H.J. Simpson Ric, Can you buy just a HyperTech PowerStat (or other ) without the whole new housing ? Or are they one piece ? Was thinking of a 172° F (or 160, 180 F) I can only find the cooler thermostats with housing for about $70 (1998 C5 6 spd). My Hypertech Power Programmer III should arrive this morning and in reading the FAQ's, the lower temp. sound like it helps, but mine runs fairly cool, usually 190-205, long idle in traffic sometimes will go to 220°, but fans kick in and drops it fast. SignatureTedd Riggs Redmond, WA 1998 C5 6 spd > Have it running and up to temp so there is pressure and flow in the > cooling system. [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] >>I cleaned the radiator. It had a lot of debris in there. Should the car be >>running when I bleed it, or just hot? I think the LS motors have the stat attached to the housing, but I wouldn't swear to it. > Ric, > Can you buy just a HyperTech PowerStat (or other ) without the [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > fairly cool, usually 190-205, long idle in traffic sometimes will go > to 220°, but fans kick in and drops it fast. SignatureRic Seyler Online Racing: RicSeyler GPL Handicap 6.35 ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler remove –SPAM- from email address -------------------------------------- "Homer no function beer well without." - H.J. Simpson >From: "lkitesplit" lkitesplit1023@hotmail.com >I was hoping someone might have an answer for me. I have a 94 coupe with 66k >miles. It runs just fine on the open road, but gets pretty hot while >standing still or in traffic. The water pump was changed recently and the >radiator fluid is pretty clean. What do I do? Check in front of your radiator. You may have some debris interferring . In addition to what youve been told by the others, look at these things too : 1. Power wash the condensor/radiator . 2. Are all the sides, bottom and top sealed up well ? 3. Run no more than 25% coolant to water ratio (water is better than coolant for removing heat). Use a bottle of Water Wetter by Redline. 4. Have you verified that your water temp guage is correct by actually measuring the water temp with another means ? 5. Have you thoroughly cleaned the cooling system with a strong cleaner ? Did you open the block drains when draining ? Have you checked the digital readout ("gauges" button on dash) to see what the actual temp is.. The analog gauge always seems to read high. >I was hoping someone might have an answer for me. I have a 94 coupe with 66k >miles. It runs just fine on the open road, but gets pretty hot while [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > SignatureRic Seyler Online Racing: RicSeyler GPL Handicap 6.35 ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler remove –SPAM- from email address -------------------------------------- "Homer no function beer well without." - H.J. Simpson > Have you checked the digital readout ("gauges" button on dash) > to see what the actual temp is.. The analog gauge always seems to read high. Interesting. For both coolant and oil temp, mine always read low, by what I interpolate to be about 50 deg F. AJM '93 Ruby coupe, 6 sp > >I was hoping someone might have an answer for me. I have a 94 coupe with 66k > >miles. It runs just fine on the open road, but gets pretty hot while > >standing still or in traffic. The water pump was changed recently and the > >radiator fluid is pretty clean. What do I do? > > > >John Hey Cards, I think it's been documented that from the factory the analog guages read higher than the digital readout. And the digital readout is the one to really trust. > > [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > > SignatureRic Seyler Online Racing: RicSeyler GPL Handicap 6.35 ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler remove -SPAM- from email address -------------------------------------- "Homer no function beer well without." - H.J. Simpson Photos were a great help, thank you. Now, do I bleed with the engine hot, cold, running, or off? Thanks again, John > I was hoping someone might have an answer for me. I have a 94 coupe with 66k > miles. It runs just fine on the open road, but gets pretty hot while > standing still or in traffic. The water pump was changed recently and the > radiator fluid is pretty clean. What do I do? > > John |
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