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They make a "special" bleeding wrench that is not at all
expensive..hollow, and has a place to connect the bleeder hose...I
have one and it just nice to have but not really needed...s

I normally take a short 5/16 in box end wrench to open the bleeders...
and place the hose over the ned of the valve after I put the wrench
on...

Perosnally I have NEVER had a bleeder snap on me...but then again I do
not use a 1000 pounds of force closing them either.....

Just do the inner passengers rear 1st...followed by the outer
passenger rear then move over to the drivers rear and do the inner 1st
then the outer....walk around to the passenger front and bleed the
single bleeder then do the drivers front...also single bleeder...

2 person job....without a pressure bleeder... one sitting in the car
to push the peddle down while you lay under the car and loosen the
bleeder ....

Lots of luck...lol.... The C3 brake system works BUT over time you
will find the calibers have a tendance to suck air...which means you
will eventyally become a pro a bleeding brakes... lol...its not hard

Bob Griffiths

If it's not been done in a long time the screws can certainly be very
stubborn to loosen. If they don't release with moderate pressure, don't
force them any further. At that point you could try tapping around the
side of the wrench while it's on the screw with a tack hammer (that's
TACK not jack) or fairly lightly with a regular one - kinda like trying
to loosen a pickle jar lid. You could also try to *tighten* the screw
just a *nudge* then try loosening it. Also, you might try a 6-sided
socket just to be sure you don't round the screw's faces before it comes
out.

If it looks like it's going the way of a snapped bleeder then you might
as well try some heat. Try a propane torch to lightly heat the casting
around the screw - not the screw itself. Be very careful here - rubber
hoses and fiberglass burn - plus you don't want to get the casting so
hot that you're boiling the fluid inside. Then go at it again with the
tapping and or tightening.

Be prepared to have to remove the caliper to either have the snapped
screw drilled out or you might even just take it to a garage to see if
they can remove it. As long as you're bleeding the system, it won't
matter much if you have to remove the caliper anyway.

Oh yes, one more thing...

Lefty loosey, righty tighty.

Here's waving to ya - \||||

Owen
___

'67BB & '72BB
___

"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
    -- Ann Hayman Zwinger

Well I'm going to cop out here.  Do the brake job, then call Goodyear and
see what they charge to flush the old fluid and bleed the system.  I did it
that way the last time I changed the brakes and replaced the master
cylinder, they charged $58.00 and I found a $10.00 coupon online.  I didn't
have the pressure bleeder and didn't like the last one I had and didn't have
anyone around to help me.  Another benefit is that they double check your
work and if you're not a pro, that's a plus and they also guarantee their
work.  I chose Goodyear because they allowed me to furnish my own high temp
brake fluid, where Firestone and others refused.

I am preparing to do a brake job on my '76 vette (with trepidation). I know
that the bleeder nipples can be an issue as I have read of them being
snapped off. What is the best wat to try to get these guys loose for
bleeding the brakes? A small wrench ? or a socket on top of them? and then
the wrench once the bleed tube is on it?

TIA for what may be a dumb question, but I'm not an experienced pro
(obviously).