Thanks Paul, I googled up a couple articles with pics.
The whole assembly on the bench is the way to go, your right.

Still homeless, but hunting for a lot to build on... But can't get back
to the island though....
lots with houses that have to be torn down are now going for $650,000
and up, and the builders
are gouging everyone to build on the Island, ($300,00 sq ft and up). So
I'm looking for a lot in Gulf Breeze,
the Peninsula before the Island.

 Done several on late C4s and Pontiacs.  No motor failures, only gel
 deterioration--delrin roller fix will do the job.  You are correct, the
 nylon gear is adequate. I bought a metal gear, "just in case" and have
 never needed it.

 I pull the whole headlamp assembly to the workbench (pad to prevent
 paint scratches) rather than trying to just remove the motor and gearbox
 from the car.  Things to watch:  1) Chip away paint from thrust-screw
 locknut and gearcase screws and put a drop of penetrating oil on each.
 Then go have a beer before before you start.  2) Keep track of how many
 turns you are backing out the thrust screw--and mark it and/or tighten
 the locknut before you open the gearbox. Backing off the thrust screw
 allows the motor shaft (worm) to displace slightly when you pry out the
 nylon gear.  3) If you shear a corroded gearbox cover screw, use a
 drillpress rather than a hand held drill--the screws are much harder
 than the gearbox. Should this happen, you can drill out the case and
 replace the screw with a small stainless machine screw and nut.

 Best wishes in Ivan recovery down there.

 HTH.......  Paul H.

 RicSeyler wrote:
 > Anyone done the '94-up Headlight motor bushing upgrade?
 > I was just wondering from someone who has already done it
 > whether you R&R'd the whole assembly or just the motor?
 >
 > One side has finally given up the ghost, the "gel" in the original must
 > be totally deteriorated. But they have been cycling after turning off
 > for a while.
 > So I will do both sides, with the Delrin bushings. I don't need to go
 > with the gear
 > like 84-87 units. Mine are just slipping from the Gel going bad.
 >
 > ---
 > Ric Seyler
 > Online Racing: RicSeyler
 > GPL Handicap 6.35
 > ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net
 > http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler
 > remove –SPAM- from email address
 > --------------------------------------
 > "Homer no function beer well without."
 > - H.J. Simpson
 >

I put the metal gears in my 1993.  Pulled the whole assemblies, it's the
only way to go.  The whole job took 3 hrs. total and I wasn't in a hurry.  I
am very pleased with the metal gears, I wouldn't put the nylon gears back in
if they paid me.  Not only was it a mess to clean all the ground nylon out
of unit, you need to make sure that you clean the worm gear out real good
because that nylon gets clogged down in there as well.

Done several on late C4s and Pontiacs.  No motor failures, only gel
deterioration--delrin roller fix will do the job.  You are correct, the
nylon gear is adequate. I bought a metal gear, "just in case" and have
never needed it.

I pull the whole headlamp assembly to the workbench (pad to prevent
paint scratches) rather than trying to just remove the motor and gearbox
from the car.  Things to watch:  1) Chip away paint from thrust-screw
locknut and gearcase screws and put a drop of penetrating oil on each.
Then go have a beer before before you start.  2) Keep track of how many
turns you are backing out the thrust screw--and mark it and/or tighten
the locknut before you open the gearbox. Backing off the thrust screw
allows the motor shaft (worm) to displace slightly when you pry out the
nylon gear.  3) If you shear a corroded gearbox cover screw, use a
drillpress rather than a hand held drill--the screws are much harder
than the gearbox. Should this happen, you can drill out the case and
replace the screw with a small stainless machine screw and nut.

Best wishes in Ivan recovery down there.

HTH.......  Paul H.

RicSeyler wrote: