I'd attack it with a good grade of polishing compound, probably use two
or three successively finer grades to blend everything in just right. I
believe body shops have a handtool they use for hand-polishing small
regions smoothly and evenly, sort of like a sanding block with its firm
foam back, I'm not sure of its name but it'd be worth tracking one down.
I'd also try to polish as little as possible to preserve the clearcoat.

If you have a friendly local body shop they can give you good advice on
particular grades of polish. Or if you are uncertain just hire a good
body/paint shop to polish it out for you. The trick, of course, is
finding a good one.

Good luck.

-- V

I'm hesitant to respond, because I can't really interpret this last message.
I can't tell if you are serious, Tone, or if you are being sarcastic, but I
guess I'll find out.

First, since my stomach made a knot when I read your first request, I'll bet
your's was going whacko.  What a terrible feeling that must have been.

I suppose you can go to a shop as the safe and sure way of taking care of
this scratch problem, or you can try to learn some stuff from it and maybe
fix it or make it worse.  Depends on where your threshhold of risk taking
falls.

There are various grades of courseness in compounds.  Some times these are
called "cuts."  You can get a heavy cut compound (which it sounds like might
be what started this whole thing) and it is used for taking out big
problems, bird crap stains, pitch stains, overspray, and rough work.  But,
you only use that if and when your plan includes continuing by using a
medium cut and then a fine cut and maybe a safe cut compound.

If your area is not too large, you can probably do it by hand using clean
and soft buffing rags.  Truth be told, the scratches you might have created
using a deep cut compound can't be the end of the world.  I mean, how deep
do the scratches go?

If you have any practice with a buffer, this is probably a no brainer.  If
you don't have the practice, stick to the hand jive.

It's your car.  If you feel like taking a risk, minimal, I'd say, then work
it out on your own.  Take your time.  Go from a cut that removes anything up
to say a 400 scratch, and work it on down from there.

Clear coat is tough as hell, which is why cars have it as a top coat.  Don't
go through that, and I don't think you'll have much trouble.

If you do, well, don't say I said to do it.

Lets see, you start of calling it dumb and want a news group to say you did
good and you didn't make a mistake? Polishing out scratches is a learning
experience like walking, riding a bike, and not eating the yellow snow. Even
with nearly 50 years of painting automobiles I still make a mistake buffing
a finish every now and then.

If I were really nice I would tell you that the "there" in your rant is
supposed to be "they're", or should it be "their"? Now I have to learn
something else, I knew I shouldn't have started this.

It is a pretty tough group here.  They got that way from screwing up more
times than you can imagine. LOL  What is the saying about Experience
prevents stupid mistakes but you get experience from stupid mistakes?

Odds are you are going to have the scratches still visible, simply because
there isn't a lot to work with here.  We can't see how bad (or good) they
are and we can't see how bad you made it.  Had a new car about 6 years ago
that the dealer had to fix 4 days after getting it.  The tech set a box with
the new parts on the hood, apparently slid it over to the center so it
wouldn't fall off, and then worked inside the car to replacing the item.

Voila, scratched area about 10x10.  I threw a fit!!!  They ended up buffing
it out, however, it was always there if you looked for it and even if you
didn't, if the light was right, you saw it.  It was a dark green.

So it may go away and it may not.  Good luck on it if you do it and good
luck if you go with the professional shop route.  You might also go to an
automotive paint supply store and have someone there who is experienced in
this stuff (some are just counter help, some actually have done it)
recommend a buffing and polishing compound to remove it.  You may have to
buy several levels to take it out.

I want a NEW VETTE Mmmmmm C6 Z06 (Have to go change shorts)

You're no fun, get back in there and fix it, you can do it. Get some very
fine POLISHING, as opposed to buffing, compound, (normally white), and soft
cotton cloth and have at it. You're going to have to work at it with a cloth
loaded with compound. Keep the surface wet (damp) with compound, it don't
polish much when it's dry. Do a little right in the middle of the mess with
the tip of your finger and the compound loaded cloth. No hard pressure just
brisk, you should rub fast enough to feel the heat. Then clean it off and
see if you are making progress. The process will actually take off some
clearcote but not much and also blend the surface. If you can get to that
point repost and I'll tell you how to hid (blend) the entire mess.

just remember...
you pay to play,
and you get what you pay for....

my2¢