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Car Forum / Chevrolet / Chevrolet Corvette / April 2006

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1972 corvette questin

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rebco10 - 19 Apr 2006 00:30 GMT
I was offered the following.

1972 white corvette.  Rebuilt about 20 years ago runs perfect.  Driven
about 2000 miles per year.  We know the seller.

I have not seen it.  I was told something special about the
wipers....no idea
Chrome bumper front and rear
4 spd.
t-top.

88,000 miles.

This sounds like a nice car to add.  I am not sure what the value
should be.

Please list some things to look for.  The seller does very well.  He
wants to sell the Corvette for a Dodge... no accounting for some
peoples tastes.  He is looking for $12,000 and tells me it is worth
much more.

Please help with your info.
dave - 19 Apr 2006 02:35 GMT
1. Look at the frame rails for rusting , especially just ahead of the
rear wheels.
2. CHeck around the windshield header and side pillars for rust.
3.  Id pay to have a good mechanic look over the car checking all
mechanicals.
4.  Id have  an experienced body man look over the car for
accidents/exterior panel replacements/ bondo repairs.
5.  Id ask for all repair reciepts and maintenance reciepts.
6.  Check for matching numbers on the drivetrain.

Email me for an e-list of 75 things to check on a C3 Vette prepared by a
corvette expert.
My Names Nobody - 19 Apr 2006 04:26 GMT
> 1. Look at the frame rails for rusting , especially just ahead of the
> rear wheels.
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> Email me for an e-list of 75 things to check on a C3 Vette prepared by a
> corvette expert.

Please post the list of 75 things to check here...
Eugene Blanchard - 19 Apr 2006 04:53 GMT
Run your hand just on the inside of the wheel wells. You are looking for a
seam where they have grafted on a new bodypanel. It means its been in an
accident.

Check for rust on the inside of the top of the windshield frame.

Check the headlight frames, they are made of potmetal and the screws freeze
and you can't adjust them without breaking them.

What type of calipers does he have? If they are stock, then what type of
brake fluid? If he uses normal break fluid, then the caliper cylnders can
rust and leak on long runs. Usually replaced with stainless steel calipers.
Its a general problem with cars that are stored and not run much.

The door panels are notorious for having the arm rests wear.

That's all I can remember - its been 20 years since I owned my 72 Vette.

Cave wrote:

> 1. Look at the frame rails for rusting , especially just ahead of the
> rear wheels.
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> Email me for an e-list of 75 things to check on a C3 Vette prepared by a
> corvette expert.
Barking Rats - 19 Apr 2006 07:02 GMT
> 1972 white corvette.  Rebuilt about 20 years ago runs perfect.  Driven
> about 2000 miles per year.  We know the seller.
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> This sounds like a nice car to add.  I am not sure what the value
> should be.

Value is way too difficult to guess at without a full description plus
pictures - and even then, it'd only be the roughest of estimates since
we can't see it in person.

How much work and/or additional funds do you want to put into the car?
Everything can be fixed - for a price. Fully test out every function you
can and then decide if you are capable of fixing it or paying to have it
done.

A couple things to look for in addition to regular engine, trans,
windows, a/c, etc.:

- make sure the headlights and wipers operate correctly. The headlight
doors and wiper door should fully open and close when activated -
they're both run off of a vacuum system that can be troublesome with
aging hoses and diaphrams.

- check to make sure the spare tire carrier is under the rear end, might
want to see that the spare is there too. Check for the scissors jack in
the storage compartment behind the seats.

- there should be a hinged tray/shelf behind the seats that stores the
rear window when removed from the mounts. You should find a pair of
vinyl bags to hold the t-tops when stored.

- ask the owner to set and then trigger the standard theft alarm system.

- look throught the wheel slots at the brake calipers at each corner (or
crawl under to see the caliper) and examine for any "wet" looking spots
that may indicate corrosion inside the caliper bores. As long as you're
examining the brakes, make sure the parking brake is functional and
holds the car from rolling.

Well, that's about all I can come up with that addresses this era - and
specifically the '72 Corvettes. The things I mentioned would be on a car
in stock condition. If these items aren't there or functional, you'll
have to make a self determination as to how important a stock setup is.

Here's waving to ya - \||||

Owen
___

'67BB & '72BB

-- not affiliated with JLA forum in any way -- alt.autos.corvette is
original posting --
___

"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
    -- Ann Hayman Zwinger
dave - 19 Apr 2006 11:46 GMT
75 things to look for on a C3 :

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/dpg/part1.htm
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/dpg/part2.htm
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/dpg/part3.htm
My Names Nobody - 19 Apr 2006 21:23 GMT
> 75 things to look for on a C3 :
>
> http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/dpg/part1.htm
> http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/dpg/part2.htm
> http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/dpg/part3.htm

Thank You
Bob G. - 19 Apr 2006 12:44 GMT
>I was offered the following.
>
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
>Please help with your info.
=========================================
Value is extremely hard to "Guess" but 12K is definately in the lower
end of the scale for a GOOD 72...high on the scale for a JUNKER 72

I have seen that 75 things to look for posted a number of times and to
be honest IF you wanlked into my garage with it in you hands I would
walk back up to the house and not even talk to you... (Just my opinion
of what I think of the list)    unrealistic for a 30-40 year old car
IMHO...

However look for RUST... frame rust in front of the rear wheels...and
rust on the lower windshield pillares, and look at the area between
the headlights for small dimples in the fiberglass...all expensive to
repair.. the Frame/Windshield rust would be a deal killer...

I own a 72.... not numbers matching as I run a 68 327 in it.  had the
car 20 years now at least...Someone mentioned the alarm...hell mine
has never worked since I owned the car...and I have never even heard
one work on any  others either..(not that they do not do not)..  I
loved the comment to look for the jack... what can I say... LOL I

Just my personal thoughts this morning ...and I am not fully awake yet

Lots of luck
Bob G.  
Tom in Missouri - 19 Apr 2006 16:11 GMT
I agree with Bob.  Heck, some people act like this is 1974 and you are
looking at a two-year-old car by the way they are checking it out.

If this car is really nice and has all the stuff working everyone has
mentioned, it could be in the mid $20s to high $20.  An NCRS restored car /
Bloomington restored car could put it in the $30s. If it has the wrong
motor, hot rod dress up stuff, etc. it could be $6000 to $15,000 depending
on quality and other things.

Options.  No one mentioned those, but a base 350 auto with nothing on it
could be the low end of price while a 454 4 speed with the right options
could put you into the sky.  If a ZR1 (not very likely - if so, by ONE
lottery ticket because it WILL be the winner) , the price will shoot into
orbit.

Things like jacks, alarms, radios, etc. quit or disappear after years and
owners.  This one has a long-term owner, so it may be very intact and very
complete.  Then again, if they bought it 20-25 yeas ago, they may have
bought something that was modified instead of stock and with items not
working or missing (this was all less important back then.).

The special about the wipers will be one of the following:

1. has original wiper door and actuators (correct and stock)
2. wiper door replaced with longer hood (typical '73 upgrade - not stock)
3. wiper door not working - vacuum problems (typical on old car - can be
cheap or expensive)

Go take some pictures, check the body over for frame rust and fiberglass
repairs (all underneath), find what options are on it (even the radio is an
option).

Check http://www.idavette.net/facts.htm for options
(http://www.idavette.net/facts/72.htm for 1972).

It is very important to check frame RUST as this is a BIG problem and a big
$$$ item.  Body repairs are a lot more common that most want to admit, and
often are done to cars that current owners swear are "no-hit" bodies.  If
you replace an entire panel, and do it right, there won't be any signs of a
hit.

Here is a guide on checking out the numbers as to where they are.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/3000/matchnos.html
And a buyer's guide.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/3000/guide2.html

>>I was offered the following.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 43 lines]
> Lots of luck
> Bob G.
Dad - 19 Apr 2006 17:13 GMT
> I agree with Bob.  Heck, some people act like this is 1974 and you are
> looking at a two-year-old car by the way they are checking it out.

I'll second Bob and Tom's opinion, (I like that, Bob and Tom), that 75 point
list would be good only if you were caught in the woods with only poison ivy
as an alternative to that piece of paper. I just backed away from a '72 with
less miles with an LT1 and for less money because of its owner neglect. The
only upside was that it was all there, he never did much more than nominal
repairs, much less sweep it out every now and then. As some know I have run
down more "Hey, I know where there is a rare Corvette for sale", wild goose
chases than I care to admit. Most are a far from a buy and stay where they
are. The other end of that is they know what they have and it is priced
accordingly.

The '72 sounds good but take a good look at it before you do a money dump,
it only cost $5,500 base new.

Good luck,
Dad
lab~rat  >:-) - 19 Apr 2006 20:48 GMT
>The '72 sounds good but take a good look at it before you do a money dump,
>it only cost $5,500 base new.

Maybe a good investment would be a time machine...
--
lab~rat  >:-)
Do you want polite or do you want sincere?
tony kujawa - 19 Apr 2006 13:30 GMT
All good advise, but remember the cleaner and nicer the 68-73's are they go
up expotentially in value.  You will not find one in decent condition for
under 15K, so if the one you are looking at is as nice as you say at that
price, jump on it.  I got my '73 white/black convertable 4sp. L-82 last year
for 12K and it doesn't sound nearly as nice as yours, and mine is all
original and in pretty good condition.  The paint is fair, but the nice
thing about white is that it wears very well.  Anyway, I have had offers for
16K for it and it will only go up.  Don't care, I'm keeping this one for
life.  Dodge?  Fugly a.s cars, all of them...

>I was offered the following.
>
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> Please help with your info.
 
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