Try these:

<< http://running_on_alcohol.tripod.com/id26.html

<< http://autorepair.about.com/cs/generalinfo/a/aa102100a_2.htm

<< http://www.esru.strath.ac.uk/EandE/Web_sites/02-03/biofuels/perf_mods.htm

<< http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0ca4b0 >>

A neighbor (young M.D.) with a '65 Stang overhauled his carb and put the
old parts in a fruit jar filled with Everclear (white lightening) to see
what will happen.  Dumb Ford guy.  Corvette owners have a lick of sense
and know that the fuel residue will ruin the hooch.  {{:-(

--
PJ

Your elastomembers in the carb need to be compatible to the latest
fuel cocktail and it will be OK. Something else to watch for is the
paper fuel filter that can come apart as the new fuel eats the glue,
just use the porous bronze.

You must have a carpenter doing the work on your car if he can't
answer the questions you've been asking.

I hate to say this, but modifying the heads for unleaded (hardened valve
seats) may do more damage, and irreversible damage at that, than the
unleaded gas.  Seats inserted can drop out. If one does, all sorts of things
"reach out and touch someone" that they shouldn't normally.

The wear difference is probably around 20%.  Instead of a valve job at
100,000 miles, you need one at 80,000.  Even if you thought you needed one
at 50,000, it would be 40,000 miles.  You driving that much?

If you have had the carb rebuilt recently, the new kit parts are probably
good as they get for the ethanol.  Older parts and original rubber parts can
be affected.

I'd run a brass float, if you have a composite one.