Please excuse the top posting IF it bugs you....  

To me I would let it stand on its own as a survivor...

Mainly because it drives as well as it does and doing a Restoration
can get both involved and EXPENSIVE... and there is no way that I
knolw of that you could recover the costs..\

fix the clock, fix the AC and replace the
calibers and brake lines etc...

As far as the painted mufflers etc... I would not let that bother me
in the least ..  

Just my opinion...

Bob G.  
64 72 & 98 Convertibles
76 & 79 Coupes

The 79 (also a L 82) has the pace car spoilers from the factory..BTW
Brakes are going to go south if you do not use them... believe me ALL
of my C3's  get their brakes pumped a few times every month even while
in storage...just cheaper and easier then playing with them every
spring... Surprised your power steering control valve has not gone
south the seals in tem dry out over the winter..have to drive mine a
few weeks every spring to stop the leaking...

Hell it is barely broken in at 4,369 miles and you think it needs a
resto?  Sounds more like you have a couple of maintenance issues.
--

You can run, but you'll only die tired.

ZombyWoof

Here is what I'd do.

1. Fix the brake problem.  By that, I mean "FIX", not replace.  The reason
will be obvious later.  Why do the lines need replacing?  Have they rusted
through?  What do you mean leaking? Leaking is not "normal" although having
calipers leak is common.

Much of the brake problems go away IF YOU DRIVE THE CAR!!!  Driving it 3
times a year and then sitting for 9 months is not helping.

Get another set of wheels and tires. I would not drive it anywhere but on
and off a trailer and into the show field on 30 year old tires.

If the hose or line is leaking, try tightening the fitting to seal.  If the
caliper is leaking, get a seal kit and install it.

2. check on fixing the AC.  However, I would restrict what was done.  For
example, I would only use R12 and if the system is leaking, I'd be sure any
seals that are replaced are either not visible or original.  Otherwise, I
would strict it to only being charged at this time. If they can't charge it,
well, they can't and I wouldn't do anymore until later.

3. Join NCRS.

4. Prepare to go to an NCRS chapter or regional meet for judging as a Bow
Tie car.  This is for cars that are original survivors.  DO NOT begin making
the car nice, that is not what Bow Tie judging is about it is about seeing
an original car, not a restored car. Other than fixing a leaking caliper or
brake line, do not change anything.  Wash it only.  Do not sand, touch up,
paint, wire brush, etc.  This only destroys originality.

5. Plan on going to Bloomington Gold next June for Survivor judging.  From
how you describe the car, I'd trailer it or ship it, depending on your
ability to do such. I wouldn't drive it.  This has limited openings, so I
would make contact now and get the information you need to be in the
judging.

6. AFTER you have picked up the BG Survivor award and NCRS Bow Tie judging,
then I would go through what is wrong with the car.

7. I'd be sure the brakes were up to par.  I'd install new brake hoses as
close to original as I could get. I'd start with new seals, and pistons if
needed first.  If that was not possible, then I would have YOUR calipers
resleeved with stainless steel sleeves.  Most places will sleeve yours and
return them, rather than just exchange.

8. I'd clean the frame and preserve it.  Paint the outside of it with an
original shade and spray the inside with an oil mist to stop any rust.

I would have the AC fixed but still only use R12. More expensive, but it
works better in these cars. I would still restrict them to keeping the
system as original looking as possible.  If they can't, find someone else.

Drive the thing on a regular basis. Sitting 9 months will just let it fall
apart. Once a month at least, start it in the driveway, let it warm up a
bit, then drive it around the neighborhood and at least on stretch of road
up to 50 mph or so. Be out there at least 30 minutes.  Avoid the rain and
snow if you are paranoid about it, but if not, then bring it home and clean
it on the lift to get the underside clean also.

Even Harrah's took every car out and drove them on a regular basis.

A restoration will destroy all originality. It is the originality that is
the value.  The Survivor and Bow Tie awards attest to the originality.

Hello Everyone,

I'm a "never have owned one, but sure want to..." vette person. My favorites
are the '63, '64, '73, '78 and '79. I really like the late 70s due to the
larger, "Mako Shark"  influence in the design.

What I've been reading in here, off and on, are the problems associated with
this machine and it appears to me, these may be a deterence to owning one.
I've never even driven one, but find the necessary care kind of intriguing
in many respects.

I'm wanting to do the whole nine yards and make the shows, rallies and get
to know others with similar vettes to compare and discuss. So...here's the
group's loaded question:

Which year is THE best year Vette to own. (I hate the looks of the 80s
years.......too lean, bland and just unattractive to me.) The "hatchback"
look of the late 70s looks very stylish to me!

I'd appreciate a guesstimation of price if you would. I'm in Oregon.

I'm looking forward to reading your opinions.

Ernie