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Car Forum / Chevrolet / Chevrolet Corvette / March 2007Aluminum Wheel restoration question.
Hi, Have been restoring a '77 vette. My aluminum wheels were white with oxidization.I took off each wheel and spent two hrs each using rubbing compound and Mothers aluminum polish. I took 30 years of oxidization off those rims and brought them totally back to life. They shine like silver dollars. My hands are sore and veryt black....After spending the whole day shining them up, is there something I can put on them to preserve the aluminum? Thanks....Jimi. Mothers Powerball & Powerball Mini is great, I use it on my Billet Specialties wheels. Would of saved you hours of hand rubbing. I'm pretty sure the originals were Clear Epoxyed. I've found that the rattle can clears won't last in a wheel environment especially with brake dust. I would take them and have them professionally cleared. Or break out the Powerball and Mothers Powerball Compound once a year. The Mothers compound will protect them for a while, but not permanently. > Hi, > Have been restoring a '77 vette. My aluminum wheels were white with [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > >  SignatureRic Seyler Online Racing: RicSeyler GPL Handicap 6.35 ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler remove –SPAM- from email address -------------------------------------- "Homer no function beer well without." - H.J. Simpson > Mothers Powerball & Powerball Mini is great, I use it on my Billet > Specialties wheels. [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] >> >> GM shop manual recommends cleaning with a metal conditioner after buffing then coating with a two-part Urethane clear coat. From aircraft experience, I think urethane will stand flexing better than an epoxy. Not a clue as to UV susceptability of either epoxy or urethane though. Shop manual suggestions are R&M metal conditioner # 801, R&M Urethane enamel #893 and R&M catalyst #894. (I think these guys were bought out.) Dad might know by who and he probably knows of a better source. If you're going to spray indoors, remember that Urethane paint gives off Cyanates (cyanide) and can cause you to either get dead or have your kidney's fall out. Wear an airline hose mask or work outdoors, stay upwind and wear a barrier mask and eye protection. Scrub well afterward. SignaturePJ Thanks group for your help on this topic...... Jimi > > [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] >barrier mask and eye protection. Scrub well afterward. > Sounds Good! Although iffin it was me I'd have them Professionally cleared OR just polish them a couple times a year. SignatureRic Seyler Online Racing: RicSeyler GPL Handicap 6.35 ricseyler@SPAMgulf.net http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler remove -SPAM- from email address -------------------------------------- "Homer no function beer well without." - H.J. Simpson PJ wrote: Mothers Powerball & Powerball Mini is great, I use it on my Billet Specialties wheels. Would of saved you hours of hand rubbing. I'm pretty sure the originals were Clear Epoxyed. I've found that the rattle can clears won't last in a wheel environment especially with brake dust. I would take them and have them professionally cleared. Or break out the Powerball and Mothers Powerball Compound once a year. The Mothers compound will protect them for a while, but not permanently. Jimi wrote: Hi, Have been restoring a '77 vette. My aluminum wheels were white with oxidization.I took off each wheel and spent two hrs each using rubbing compound and Mothers aluminum polish. I took 30 years of oxidization off those rims and brought them totally back to life. They shine like silver dollars. My hands are sore and veryt black....After spending the whole day shining them up, is there something I can put on them to preserve the aluminum? Thanks....Jimi. >>GM shop manual recommends cleaning with a metal conditioner after buffing >>then coating with a two-part Urethane clear coat. From aircraft >>experience, I think urethane will stand flexing better than an epoxy. Not >>a clue as to UV susceptability of either epoxy or urethane though. >>Shop manual suggestions are R&M metal conditioner # 801, R&M Urethane >>enamel #893 and R&M catalyst #894. (I think these guys were bought out.) [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >>out. Wear an airline hose mask or work outdoors, stay upwind and wear a >>barrier mask and eye protection. Scrub well afterward. >Sounds Good! Although iffin it was me I'd have them Professionally cleared OR >just >polish them a couple times a year. The company survives today as BASF's Inmont Division's R-M high quality line of automotive paints. Iffin I was Ric I would most assuredly have some one else refinish them. Dupont has a good clear coat for them and yes, you need an outside air source to have your lung muscles work after you're done. Interesting note, to me that is, the R&M paint company (William James Mason) started out as a duck decoy company in 1896 in Michigan. One (1) decoy sold in 2000 for $345,500, getting as bad as Corvettes. SignatureDad 05 C6 Silver/Red 6spd Z51 72 Shark Black/Black/4spd 64 Red/red/white top/4spd I have to chime in as well on this... After reading this thread, i figured it couldn't hurt to try the Powerball on my '76 aluminum wheels that had some considerable oxidation. Well, after a little elbow grease, the wheels looks damn near brand new. I couldn't believe how much of that oxidation that it took off. Now just to get the wheels onto my car.... Brian > Hi, > Have been restoring a '77 vette. My aluminum wheels were white with [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > shining them up, is there something I can put on them to preserve the > aluminum? Thanks....Jimi.
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