> I've brought my car back to a reputable tranny shop twice now to
> seal tranny leaks. Finally stopped leaking except in the rear.
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> Cheers!
There is only 2 things that allow a seal to leak, the seal its self
and the surface it is sealing on. If you have been around the Corvette
groups very long you have seen the problems with brake seals, same
problem. Rust. The yoke is cast iron and is polished by the seal when
driven. Since it works in and out as well as around it can be left set
with bright polished cast iron exposed to allow rust to form. Next
time you drive it the rust becomes a rasp and eats your seal leaving
some rust in the seal to eat the yoke. At some point even a new seal
will not seal a yoke with a ring cut in it from the previous seals.
Some repair shops have the ability to sleeve the yoke, most don't
and/or choose to replace it; but either way it needs to have a good
sealing surface. Is it common? Yes, for cars that sit for long periods
of time regardless of the transmission type. As for the brake seals
they just trap the moisture under the seal a eat the sealing surface.
Very good reason to flush the brake system as required for its type of
use.
As far as you injector problems, when were the cleaned last?

Signature
Dad
05 C6 Silver/Red 6spd Z51
72 Shark Black/Black/4spd
64 Red/red/white top/4spd
Private - 07 May 2007 02:04 GMT
>> I've brought my car back to a reputable tranny shop twice now to seal
>> tranny leaks. Finally stopped leaking except in the rear. Tranny guy
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
>
> As far as you injector problems, when were the cleaned last?
I agree with Dad, except for
> Some repair shops have the ability to sleeve the yoke, most don't and/or
> choose to replace it;
There is a product called a speedy sleeve that can be purchased from any
good industrial bearing and seal supplier. They do not require any special
tools or presses and are simple to install with only a hammer. These
sleeves are very thin and can be used with the stock seal size. They have a
very smooth surface and are commonly used to repair yokes that are badly
grooved under the seal. IIRC they are stainless and less inclined to rust
than the stock yoke.
Most seals seep enough that rust is not a problem and is a good reason not
to pressure wash close to any seal as this not only removes the oil but can
also drive dirt and moisture under the seal.
If the splines on the inside of the yoke are worn then the only solution is
a new yoke but they are not expensive, IIRC $50-75 but YMMV. I suspect that
the yokes are a common GM part used in many applications but YMMV. I also
suspect that GM is the best source for new yokes but again YMMV.
Greg Vincent - 07 May 2007 04:44 GMT
Hey Dad. How long have you been hanging around here? I remember you from
YEARS ago! Cheers! I used a can of something or other a couple years ago
which wold mean maybe 1000k. Thanks for the advice. Appreciate it. I'll
check with my tranny guy. Dropping it off tomorrow to have him look at it.
He doesn't recall if he replaced teh seal or not.
> > I've brought my car back to a reputable tranny shop twice now to
> > seal tranny leaks. Finally stopped leaking except in the rear.
[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
>
> As far as you injector problems, when were the cleaned last?
ssome - 23 Feb 2008 20:10 GMT
'86 Any special tools needed to replace trans seal and filter kit? how
many pints of fluid needed? any tricks to be aware of. i'm in awe of the
guy who did this every year. get fluid and kit at Chevy store or Parts
place?
ssome
?
> > I've brought my car back to a reputable tranny shop twice now to
> > seal tranny leaks. Finally stopped leaking except in the rear.
[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
>
> As far as you injector problems, when were the cleaned last?