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Car Forum / Chevrolet / Chevrolet Corvette / June 2007

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Outside Door Handle Slightly Screwed ......... 1980 C3 ... Help !

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Paradox - 04 Jun 2007 13:33 GMT
Hi People,

Got a 1980 vette, my dream car from the 80's, got lots of work to do
on her, but a labor of love anyway........  So said......

Pending problem is....

Passenger door handle (I'm in Australia, so you people in the States,
this would be the drivers door !) Anyway, the outside handle was a bit
temperamental at times...... so.... I lubricated the mechanism,
handles and whatever else was viewable with grease, oil and whatever,
and both inside and outside handles rock like Elvis....  However....
After the great lubrication fiasco...  The inside handle works like a
charm, but the outside handle doesn't want to play..... No folks, it
now only returns to 3 quarters up and sits looking stupid half-way in
and refuses to open the door, but the inside handle works a treat and
from the inside is now the only way I can open the damn door....

Help !!!

I did what I thought was the right thing for my beloved baby, but she
not only became more temperamental, but also broke even more...
Anyone with a similar experience (and how you rectified it) with
elaboration on how you remedied the problem will greatly be
appreciated...

P.S. There's some type of adjustment on the lever from the handle
(inside the door), but, how the 'ell do you get the 'andle off...
It's like working on one of those "magic cube" thingies that we had in
the 80's except I worked that one out, but removing the outside door
handle goes beyond that....

Thanks fellow Corvette Lovers

Paradox
Dad - 04 Jun 2007 14:50 GMT
> Hi People,
snip
>> P.S. There's some type of adjustment on the lever from the handle
> (inside the door), but, how the 'ell do you get the 'andle off...
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> Paradox

No adjustment, weak spring, corroded die casting, or it's broken. Take
it out, clean it and replace the spring. To take it out you should
remove the latching mechanism to get to the retaining nuts. I made a
roller like the roller tappets to make it work easier as you will see
where the trip lever has worn into the metal over time and use causing
drag.

Signature

Dad
05 C6 Silver/Red 6spd Z51
72 Shark Black/Black/4spd
64 Red/red/white top/4spd

Tom in Missouri - 04 Jun 2007 17:26 GMT
Like Dad said, weak spring or corroded housing.  The housing clearance is so
little that the corrosion warps the bucket enough to hit the flapper.

You can grind out some of the housing, but then it corrodes more, or you can
grind the edge of the flapper, which is less noticeable.   If this is good
enough for you, then you can grind a bit more clearance and have them
rechromed so they don't corrode again for awhile.

A helper spring is sold that inserts under the flapper but on warped
housings, it really doesn't help.

Retaining nuts are inside the door and not that easy to reach, of course.
It makes you wonder how they ever assembled these cars in a day or two.

The best is to replace the handle with a reproduction.  Over here, the
Genuine GM is about $115, USA reproduction is $64, and the import
reproduction is $22 from Dr. Rebuild.  Other places will have similar
prices.

Try taking it out, grind the edge, and see if that helps.

Good luck

> Hi People,
>
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
>
> Paradox
 
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