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Car Forum / Chevrolet / Chevrolet Trucks / September 2004'93 Suburban 1500 mods Can I awap rear drum/axel for disks??
My '93 Burb has 200,000 miles on the origional 5.7, The tranny was replaced at 186,000, new fuel pump @ 190,000. Is it still in very good condition overall. The 5.7 does not burn any appreciably oil, but is getting a little sluggish. I am thinking about replacing the engine with a rebuilt one that my trusty mechanic recommends, and give it a new paint job with new front grille and lights. Maybe even a painted front bumber instead of chrome. Also replace carpets, etc. I changed the AC to R134 with new compressor and filter just last month. It cools as good as my '01 Tahoe. (my brother-in-law is in the AC biz., cheap labor!!) The most rad mod I am thinking about is replacing the rear axle with one that has disk brakes, say from a wrecked Burb or truck. What year did rear disks appear on GM trucks, and is it not too far fetched to try the swap? The problems to resolve: 1.Will the track be the same width? 2. Will the u-joints match? 3. Will the master brake cylinders and ABS system match? 4. Is the wheel bolt pattern the same? (I'm too lazy to look all this sh.t up myself LOL) The reason I want rear disks is because I want to put on 17" wheels, and feel I may need the extra stopping power. Of course I will replace worn suspension and steering parts as well. Comments, sugestions, hints, or razzes welcome. Rear brakes only account for 20% of stopping power so probably not worth the money. That sounds logical. The problem is, I've been a "logical" kind of guy all my life. Kinda wanted to do something un-logical, but "cool" for a change. Know what I mean? Thanks for the honest answer tho. >Rear brakes only account for 20% of stopping power so probably not worth the >money. It's very possible, people do it all the time, just not with an axle swap. There are hundreds of companies out there making brackets to fit rotors to your truck. The hardest part is that your drums require more braking force then your new rotors will, and will have a tendency to lock up. The way to fix this is to either put bigger meats on the truck (more rolling force), get an adjustable proportioning valve, or I have read that there are corvette proportioning valves that were made for disks and are an bolt-on replacement for the original one. GMC Gremlin > That sounds logical. The problem is, I've been a "logical" kind of > guy all my life. Kinda wanted to do something un-logical, but "cool" > for a change. Know what I mean? Thanks for the honest answer tho. > > >Rear brakes only account for 20% of stopping power so probably not worth the > >money. Hi! > Rear brakes only account for 20% of stopping power so probably not worth the > money. Perhaps so, but when the rear brakes *worked* in my '84 Sierra, it sure did feel like they made a lot more difference! With them, the truck would stop (or at least slide) on a dime. With only the fronts, it didn't seem to nearly as well and it would slide a lot more often. William The Guesser A fully functioning brake system to the best of it's ability is really nice. What's up with your rear brakes? Do you know and just don't have the time, or is it up in the air? GMC Gremlin > Hi! > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > William The Guesser I have decided to try drum to disc swap, but undecided on exact route to take. Since the current axel/diff has 200,000 miles on it as well, I lean towards a swap to a later model axle set-up with discs already in place. The bolt on unit you URL'ed did not come with calipers or emergency brake set-up. The ABS is acting up, and needs to be fixed/replaced, and the master cylinder and power boost needs work as well, so a new brake susyem in is order. The discs and calipers were replaced last year as were the drums and cylinders. At any rate, none of this can happen until the (*&^$#$%&^*&* SOB's that owe me for 2 month's consulting work pay me. You must be a regular here, so I will keep you posted on progress, as it occurs. >A fully functioning brake system to the best of it's ability is really nice. >What's up with your rear brakes? Do you know and just don't have the time, [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] >> >> William The Guesser Email me at PDE_on_eBay AT comcast.N-E-T (not .com) I have a link saved in my inbox at work (can't get it here) from "Black Bird Customs" that has a full street legal set up for nearly ANY axle, like $550 complete (Loch Stockenbarrel) calipers, emergency brake, brackets, bolts. CK5 just has allot of axle swap info, brake info, etc. Okay you have 200,000 on that axle? WHAT kind of axle do you have? Do you have a 1500 burb (10bolt rear, 6 lug) or a 2500(14B SF semi-float, 6 lug) But you could probably do an axle swap, but you'd be silly not to freshen up the new axle. Might just as well freshen up yours, saves you the "search" time. Because freshening up an axle isn't _that_ big a deal (especially if you pay someone to do it for you!), and you don't need a new master calendar or anything ridiculous like that (don't believe the naysayers). Some people have no problem with the stock proportioning valve.(they have BIG meats on though, what are you running? What will you be? 20's with low pros or what?) Or you can also get a bolt-in, OEM-fit, 1980's corvette valve. Or you can get an adjustable one from Jeggs, Summit, or the like. I'm a regular, but I'm also a 4x4 Jimmy/K5 nut (addicted absolutely). Mine's pretty much stock, but I've done allot of disk research, as I fully intend on going disk. I actually purchased my DANA 60 rear with no drums/levers/etc, because I didn't care! GMC Gremlin > I have decided to try drum to disc swap, but undecided on exact route > to take. Since the current axel/diff has 200,000 miles on it as well, [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > >> > >> William The Guesser Sounds reasonable to me. I have a 1500 burb- 6 lug. Plan on running 17" mid-profile- mostly for looks, and to add a little more height. Probable have the axel done when engine is replaced. As I said before the discs are as much for looks as for function. The drums do their job well since I replaced them along with new cylinders and hoses. I mostly want rear discs because I can! This is going to be a "winter" project. (Unless I win the lotto- then it's a new 2500 GMC Burb 4X4 with DuraMax, LOL!!) in Black!! >Email me at PDE_on_eBay AT comcast.N-E-T (not .com) >I have a link saved in my inbox at work (can't get it here) from "Black Bird [quoted text clipped - 65 lines] >> >> >> >> William The Guesser Hi! > A fully functioning brake system to the best of it's ability is really nice. Yeah...no foolin! :-) It's probably safer as well, but what the hey...donating blood is supposed to be good, right? (Just kidding!) > What's up with your rear brakes? Do you know and just don't have the time, > or is it up in the air? A bad brake line for certain. With the recent loss of power brakes it's probably only worse news now. William > Hi! > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Yeah...no foolin! :-) It's probably safer as well, but what the > hey...donating blood is supposed to be good, right? (Just kidding!) I'll mail you a pint with yer window :-) > > What's up with your rear brakes? Do you know and just don't have the time, > > or is it up in the air? > > A bad brake line for certain. You haven't looked!? I wouldn't trust the proportioning valve forever! At least go back there and crimp the line if you don't have the time to put a new one in... They are NOT that hard though. > With the recent loss of power brakes it's > probably only worse news now. There is a large (3/4 - 1") hose that goes from the manifold to the vacuum booster on a gas engine. It has a check valve on it that can fail (just use yer mouth) or it can just leak, or get clogged. I would assume there is something similar to this on your vacuum pump assy. According to my book it should be attached to the bottom of your altinator basically (the pump bracket). However this appears to be a serpentine belt system, yours may have the v-belt system if I rememeber the year of your vehicle correctly. > William GMC Gremlin INLINE > My '93 Burb has 200,000 miles on the origional 5.7, The tranny was > replaced at 186,000, new fuel pump @ 190,000. Is it still in very [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > The problems to resolve: > 1.Will the track be the same width? Should be within a 1/2 " > 2. Will the u-joints match? Yep > 3. Will the master brake cylinders and ABS system match? Not even close. You will need the ABS unit from a disc equipped vehicle and the master cylinder as well. > 4. Is the wheel bolt pattern the same? Depends on what you grab the axle out of. Another 1500 should match but the 2500 would depend on what the rating of the axle is. > (I'm too lazy to look all this sh.t up myself LOL) > > The reason I want rear disks is because I want to put on 17" wheels, > and feel I may need the extra stopping power. Actually you will give up stopping power going from drums to discs. > Of course I will replace worn suspension and steering parts as well. > > Comments, sugestions, hints, or razzes welcome. > INLINE > [quoted text clipped - 40 lines] > > Actually you will give up stopping power going from drums to discs. Actually your full of horse sh.t. Find ONE article that supports this that has some FACTS in it and isn't just written by a backward-thinking fool and I will BOW to you. GMC Gremlin > > Of course I will replace worn suspension and steering parts as well. > > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- www.ck5.com Where yer lame if your runnin' drums. GMC Gremlin > My '93 Burb has 200,000 miles on the origional 5.7, The tranny was > replaced at 186,000, new fuel pump @ 190,000. Is it still in very [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > Comments, sugestions, hints, or razzes welcome. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I can see that there are several opinions here. Since most newer autos come equipped with 4X discs, I tend to lean toward all disc. They do not fade as drums do when pushed hard. And, discs are MUCH easier to change out. If money were no object, I would simply go down and buy a new Burb, but I am trying to make my '93 last, longer as well as look cool. However, safety must also be considered here, and I must be sure the all disk set-up will not put me in the ditch when I least need it. ALL your suggestions are accepted with respect, so keep them coming. I will sort it all out, and, if you are interested, let you know what I decide. Thanks to all. >www.ck5.com > [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] >> >> Comments, sugestions, hints, or razzes welcome. As an overall observation....if you deviate much from stock it will be harder to fix later on. I would not screw around too much with brakes. I would look at improving the front discs maybe, since 80% of your stopping power is there. You are going to need a different proportioning valve and master cylinder etc and the system will likely require some tuning. If you do decide to go thru with it, go to a reputable shop that has lots of experience in this type of swap. Cuz, experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted! Mike > Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. > [quoted text clipped - 49 lines] >>> >>>Comments, sugestions, hints, or razzes welcome. |
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