You say leaks, but no sign of loss, sounds more like pads worn, remember as
the pads wear more of the caliper piston is extended, more fluid is in the
caliper housing.  Pulsation is caused by warped rotors which are caused by
few things.
Number one is excessive heat.  Can be caused by caliper mounts hanging up,
but mostly from improper rear brake adjustment.  Hoses can cause same and
sticking piston, but these cause pull problems 90% of the time.  Improper
adjustment leads to premature pad wear out as well.
Right behind in 2nd place is improperly torqued lug nuts
3rd on the list, cheap rotors.  I've seen rotors with 30% less cooling fins
than OEM, I've seen rotors that mic out ok, ie overall thickness, but if you
look close or have the right mic, you find the thickness of the individual
brake surfaces are thinner than stock.  And it is normal for one side of the
rotor to be slightly thicker than the other, this is done to combat the
harmonics that cause brake squeal. Usually the outer is thicker than the
inner, and the difference is about .020 of an inch.
If the rotor and hub are separate parts held together by the lug studs,
improper installation can lead to brake pulsation.  While you can remove the
studs with ye olde BFH if the studs aren't staked, they really need to be
installed with a press, and they need to be replaced with new ones.  If they
are staked there is a special cutter to cut the stakes, and then the BFH
removes them.  While some BFH them anyways, it can result in oversized bore
and studs that spin in the hub.  Hubs are very expensive new.   The mating
surface of the hub needs to be free of rust and dirt before assembly, I like
a very very light coat of moly grease smeared on the mating surface.
If this is the style that uses a slip on rotor such as the front wheel drive
cars use today, again no rust on the rotor to hub mating surface and proper
wheel torque.  If it uses composite rotors this is even more important.
Composite rotors are those with a cast brake surface and stamped steel "hub"
area.
On rear wheel anti lock systems there can be problems with the RWABS valve
bypassing, but as I have stated in previous posts this was much more a Ford
problem than GM or Dodge (which uses, unless they have changed in the last 5
years,  Delco Moraine Brakes, Dodge becomes more like AMC every year).
And of course ones driving habits and loads also play a role.  I had one
used to come in every 4-6 months, took a year and a half to find out they
pulled a 20 foot trailer loaded with lawn and landscape gear and no trailer
brakes,  Gee I'm sorry no more warranty.
And of course there is also the possibility that you have something in the
front end badly worn that when stressed by the brakes results in a bad
shake.  Tie rod ends, severely worn idler arm or pitman arm, very bad upper
ball joint, or upper control arm bushings.  All of these would also cause
weird wear patterns on the tires.

Whitelightning