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Car Forum / Chevrolet / Chevrolet Trucks / August 2006

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WAS: 1967 Chevy C40 motor id by casting #?

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M&S - 18 Aug 2006 22:04 GMT
Hello again,
    Sorry for the late post on the #'s. My satellite connection has been down.
    The # stamped on a machined spot next to the distributor (front) is:
F0907UY
    The # cast into the block on the passengers side rear is:
CON2 H246

Again, sorry for the delay in replying, and thanks for any help you may
have.

Mark
Whitelightning - 19 Aug 2006 02:41 GMT
> Hello again,
> Sorry for the late post on the #'s. My satellite connection has been down.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Mark

Ok I am really confused now.  Machined spot next to distributor(front) as in
distrib is in front of engine?
Here's a page that shows where the casting and engine numbers are on chevy
engines
http://www.aacncclub.com/CHEVY_CASTING_NUMBER_LOCATIONS.html
and another
http://www.yearone.com/updatedsinglepages/Id_info/gm_engine_id/engineinfo2.html

The casting numbers on a chevy engine are just numbers, no letters.  The
engine number that is stamped into a pad on the right front of the engine,
in front of the cylinder head will have numbers and letters.
All Chevy "V" engines had the distributor in the rear, and it goes through
the intake manifold.  The GMC V-6 truck engine the distributor was in the
rear but did not go through the manifold.

Whitelightning
M&S - 26 Aug 2006 02:20 GMT
>>Hello again,
>>Sorry for the late post on the #'s. My satellite connection has been down.
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
> Whitelightning

The second link you posted speaks to the location above specifically
under "L6" it says:
"L6 – The engine identification codes are located on a machined pad on
the right (passenger) side of the block behind the distributor."

These are the specific numbers I posted.

Mark
Whitelightning - 27 Aug 2006 02:14 GMT
> The second link you posted speaks to the location above specifically
> under "L6" it says:
> "L6 – The engine identification codes are located on a machined pad on
> the right (passenger) side of the block behind the distributor."
>
> These are the specific numbers I posted.

Ok, this is the first I've read that the engine was an L6, and not a V-6 or
V-8.
Its a 292 cid, 3.875 bore, 4.120 stroke, 155 hp, production ceased in 1990,
engines from 1987 to end of production were manufactured in Mexico, and not
desirable.  In 1984 Chevy gave it a new exhaust manifold and honest dual
exhaust.  Clifford Performance, formerly Clifford Research offers a ton of
stuff for this engine..
Production started in 1963, and the engine was only used in trucks.
Drivability can be improved by converting ignition to HEI.  This might be
the time
to think about moving to a V-8, unless your trying to restore.

Whitelightning
M&S - 28 Aug 2006 22:34 GMT
>>The second link you posted speaks to the location above specifically
>>under "L6" it says:
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
> Whitelightning

Whitelightning,
    Thanks for the info and sorry about the mix up on the V8/V6/L6 thing. I
actually never stated the motor config. in my original post.
    With regards to the rebuild/etc.. The truck is of course a 67' and was
given to me by a friend. Its in pretty decent shape, has a dump, 4spd,
pretty straight forward. It runs really well but burns a bit of oil and
smokes a lot when the motor is cold. It has basically just been a farm
truck for several years and sat all year except for hay season when it
was used to haul hay from the field to the barn. I figured the valve
seals have dried out hence the smoking mostly when cold.
    This would of course be just a "funsy" project as I have no intention
of a restoration so to speak but I wouldnt mind investing a bit in it to
get it a bit more road worthy and keep it reliable. I just kind of like
the "old truck" thing better than picking up a newer truck. That said,
the truck has one major issue that is leaning it towards staying a farm
truck. The truck currently has the old style death (split) rims, and
tires that are fairly dryrotted. Thinking about picking up 6 new used
rims (newer splits or non) and 6 new tires could easily cost 1500-2K.
Unfortunately at that price I could pickup a whole truck for 4k or so an
have PS, more reliability, and so on. The wheels and tires are proving
to be the real deal breaker I guess. I can pick up a gasket kit for a
couple hundred, have the head reworked for a buck and a half and the
motor would be in better shape (its not awfull now other than for the
smoke). Plenty of power, starts great, etc..
    I guess I will have to think on it a bit more. Thanks again for the
info. At least now I can more closely figure what I would have in the motor.

Mark
Whitelightning - 29 Aug 2006 02:36 GMT
Ok we know its an 8 lug wheel, what size studs  things were pretty much
"standard"
when it came to 8 lug up until about 83.  I used to sneak into the army can
point(fancy term for a junk yard lol) and pull wheels off 1980-82 M880
trucks, (dodge 3/4 ton rated at 5/4 tons) and use them on my 76 Jeep J-20
when I mangled them playing off road.. All you have to do is go a couple
years newer and your away from the split rims.  And split rims get a bad
rap.  There is absolutely nothing wrong with a multi piece rim.  The only
time things go wrong is when an obviously bad component is used to
reassemble one, or some one messes up and mixes a 16'' and 16.5" tires and
rims up.  If the lock ring looks like a cork-screw when it comes off, throw
it away and get a new one. Clean the rim of rust, especially the groove the
outer ring and lock ring set in.  There are still millions of trucks rolling
the roads with two and three piece rims, and all heavy equipment uses
multi-piece rims.  when dis-assembling them take small bites when prying the
lock rings off, and you wont distort and cork screw them most of the time.
On the 16 and 16.5 issue, watch it with one piece rims as well, they came
both ways.  They can both be "put" on the wrong rim, but when you go to
inflate them things go wrong real fast. The 16.5 tire will blow of the rim
explosively, the bead has a steep angle on it to begin with instead of a
square design.  The 16" can blow apart when inflated on a 16.5 rim, the tire
bead busts trying to stretch over the bead seat.
If this thing has 3/4 inch studs or 7/8 studs, you can go up to 8:00 or
10:00X18 or maybe even 9:00 or 10:00X20 depending on wheel clearance.
Depending on what tranny the old girl has you get to have more fun.  some of
the c-40 series used a Brownie box, an auxiliary gear box between the tranny
and the diff,. a jack shaft used between them and a shorter drive shaft.
There were three popular ones, two of them were of the "deep" reduction
kind, but one of them was an over drive unit, ie a reduction., a 1:1 and
then a mild over drive,  And it gives you a twin stick shift set up.
yet another option is the c-40, 50, and 60's had optional two speed rear
ends, mostly vacuum operated, but some were electric shift.  Go ape, build
yourself a 32 speed lol.

Whitelightning
brianorion - 29 Aug 2006 03:44 GMT
> Ok we know its an 8 lug wheel, what size studs  things were pretty much
> "standard"
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
>
> Whitelightning
   As I recall,the problem with split-rims is that these days a lot of
shops won't/can't change a tire on one(at least around here in the big
city). Plus I don't believe you can put a modern radial on there. I
switched over to regular rims and radials on my '69 some years ago and
have really enjoyed the improved ride and handling.-brian
M&S - 30 Aug 2006 03:00 GMT
> Ok we know its an 8 lug wheel, what size studs  things were pretty much
> "standard"
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
>
> Whitelightning

Yeah, I dont think we are talking about the same animal here. This truck
has 10 ply, 9.00-20 (20" rims), 10 lugs, on the rear. On the front it
has 10 ply 7.50-20 (also 20" rims) though they are 5 lug. I have never
measured the stud size.

Here are a couple links I found for similar, but a bit newer, trucks.

http://www.stovebolt.com/gallery/dubay_jim_1972.htm
http://www.stovebolt.com/gallery/soliz_joe_1972.htm

No 16" wheels there :)

For the split rims, these are not "lock ring" splits i.e. the style with
the outer ring on the bead. If they were, I wouldnt be concerned about
them at all. Mounting those is not a concern for me or for any of the
local mechanics around here because as you say, if you are carefull
while assembling them they are perfectly safe. These rims are the style
that came before that where the beads are one piece and there is a
joining ring in the center of the rim in the well. Basically the rim
spits in two in the well and there is no lock ring out at the bead. The
point at which the two rims joins becomes rusty and there is no way to
"know" for sure, even with good technique, if they will hold together.

Whats even a bit more spooky is that if that thin locking bead rusts
enough it is said they can blow apart at any point. Some of the old
timers swear that the rust can "jack" them apart and cause enough wear
that under normal/heavy operation they can just up and let go. Very
scary thinking that someone could get clipped off at the knees, or
worse, as you are rolling down the road.

I am not sure I believe they can blow at any momemnt but I definately
dont want to roll the dice breaking them down and reassembling. I also
take great care when airing them up.

I have yet to even look into a set of replacement rims for the truck so
for all I know they may be readily available at the junk yard but I cant
imagine them costing the same, or less, than an average truck rim.

The truck currently is just a simple 4 spd, no jack shaft, no 2spd rear,
nothing. I would be happy if I could just get a set of tires on it and
either do a quicky rebuild on the motor or perhaps as you say up it to a
V8. But then I would have to track down a tranny and all the other bits
and pieces hehe.

I am torn between the nostalgia of the old truck and the fact that I can
pick up a late model F700 cab and chasis which was a propane delivery
truck, thus ran on propane (spotless engine) for 2500.00

Its one of those slippery slopes. Once I spend a nickel I will have to
spend a dime, and then a dollar, if you know what I mean hehe.

Great info, and its greatly appreciated.

Mark
Whitelightning - 30 Aug 2006 04:30 GMT
> Yeah, I dont think we are talking about the same animal here. This truck
> has 10 ply, 9.00-20 (20" rims), 10 lugs, on the rear. On the front it
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> No 16" wheels there :)

try these folks
http://www.big3truck.com/  Get newer than 72 and you get away from that
wheel design.
at least they are "bud" rims and not "daytons".  also I believe wheels from
a deuce and a half will work on the rear, they were 10 lug  9:00 X 20.  Any
military bases near you?  property disposal office and see what they have ,
you might get lucky and find tires and wheels ready to go, and the military
is going to "super singles"  (a big mistake in my opinion) a lot of times
you can find the tires in almost new condition for $65 a piece.  The M714
had a 5 lug, but I think it was only 18 inch, while the 5/4 ton  M714 has
been gone for awhile, its 3/4 ton trailer is still in inventory, which means
surplus parts still available.  for some reason I think the trailer had 20
inch wheels, 5 lug.

Whitelightning
 
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