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Car Forum / Chevrolet / Chevrolet Trucks / January 2007

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1977 C10 250 6cyl to 350 8cyl engine swap

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dcdoc45 - 30 Jan 2007 22:53 GMT
okI have a 1977 C10 chevy truck with a 250 inline 6.  I want to swap
out to a 350 crate motor.  My question is, will the motor mounts
work?  if not, are the mounts for the 350 bolt on? or do I have to do
some cutting/welding?  Also, I believe it has a 350TH 3 speed tranny,
this truck only has 52K original miles and all the maintenance was
kept up to date on the truck so the tranny is not hurt, will I be able
to use that tranny with the new motor?  will I need a different drive
shaft?  is the tranny a simple bolt up?  Also, I have been around
engines for years, but how about wiring the new engine?  will I need a
complete new wiring harness? or can I use the stock harness and are
there hook ups for things?, coil ignition module etc.  I'm more
experienced on fords that have a seperate ignition module.  does the
GM have the ignition module in the distributer?  Also, will the stock
radiator need to be replaced? and will I need to fabricate new mounts
for that, or are they available as bolt on?
GeekBoy - 30 Jan 2007 23:12 GMT
> okI have a 1977 C10 chevy truck with a 250 inline 6.  I want to swap
> out to a 350 crate motor.  My question is, will the motor mounts
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> radiator need to be replaced? and will I need to fabricate new mounts
> for that, or are they available as bolt on?

Why mess up a good truck? Thoese straight 6 was probably the most hard
working and dependable gasoline engines GM made.
dcdoc45 - 31 Jan 2007 00:44 GMT
> > okI have a 1977 C10 chevy truck with a 250 inline 6.  I want to swap
> > out to a 350 crate motor.  My question is, will the motor mounts
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

Well, I figured someone would post that exact statement, heheh  Well,
I have an answer for you, the one piece intake/exhaust manifold is
prone to crack.  I cannot get the carb/idle/timing adjusted no matter
what I do.  This truck was fitted with an aftermarket a/c unit when it
was bought.  and old Clark I believe, well I took all that off but
there was a solenoid on the carb that was supposed to idle the truck
up when the compressor kicked in.  That solenoid does not work and the
replacement is no where to be found.  I looked into rebuilding the
carb myself, but a bud of mine had the exact same truck/engine combo
and broke a stud off in the manifold and had a heck of a time with it
after that.  I want to avoid this whole thing, I might take the old
motor and rebuild it with my sons as a learning project but I need
this thing to be a daily driver, I want a plain jane crate motor with
a mild cam and carb to use to haul wood, camper, boat etc.  I'm just
not getting that right now.
Whitelightning - 31 Jan 2007 02:43 GMT
> okI have a 1977 C10 chevy truck with a 250 inline 6.  I want to swap
> out to a 350 crate motor.  My question is, will the motor mounts
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> radiator need to be replaced? and will I need to fabricate new mounts
> for that, or are they available as bolt on?

Motor mount brackets on the cross member have to be moved, the holes are
there already.
The tranny will bolt to the block, but you need the correct flywheel for a
small block, torque converter should be ok..
You will also need a starter.
The drive shaft will remain the same as the tranny isn't going to move.
The stock harness will work fine, you may have to unwrap a couple connectors
to get them in the correct place.
The ignition hook ups will connect to the small block distrib, again as the
L-6 distrib was on the right side, the harness may need to be unwrapped to
get it to the small block distrib which will be center rear.
And yes the module is in the distributor.
If the radiator is a 2 core it will handle a stock engine, otherwise replace
it with a three core. If the rad looks rough, replace it.
You will need to find a V-8 fan shroud, or you will have over heating
issues.
The 6 bang fan clutch will not do the job, get a heavy duty thermo fan
clutch, correct one should be about 8-10 inches in diameter, about 2.5 to
3.5 inches thick, heavy finned aluminum, no stamped steel cover on front,
and have a bi-metal coiled spring on the front.
If the fan is 5 or more blades it will work, if 4 it wont do the job.
Don't bother with a flex fan unless you like overheating pulling a load..
If all you did was remove the after market compressor, and everything else
is there, you could grab an old A-6 compressor and the correct mounts from
any small block vehicle and get the ac working again with minor work ie
hoses etc.

Whitelightning
 
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