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Car Forum / Chevrolet / Chevrolet Trucks / May 2008Need Rotors on Chev, Bearings too?
Hi To all: Got a 2002 Chev S-10 -2 WD-that needs new front rotors. When I change the rotors and hubs, Will install new seals but what about bearings...should I get new ones or are the old ones reusable? Thanks for your help. Pete / MS  Signature"Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes" -Thomas Jefferson > Hi To all: > Got a 2002 Chev S-10 -2 WD-that needs new front rotors. When I change the > rotors and hubs, Will install new seals but what about bearings...should I > get new ones or are the old ones reusable? > Thanks for your help. > Pete / MS Why are you changing the hubs? The 02 has separate rotors no need to touch the hubs unless it's due for repacking the bearings. If it's due then I would change out the races and bearings, mainly because they are not that expensive anyway. However if they are OK and look good you could just clean them VERY well and repack with good grease. Your choice. OH and FYI if you need them the numbers are Timken set#6 (LM67048, LM67010) - Inner also BCA/National #A6 Timken set#34 (LM12748F, LM12710) - Outer also BCA/National #A34 Seals are Timken or BCA/National part #4739 SignatureSteve W. Near Cooperstown, New York Life is not like a box of chocolates it's more like a jar of jalapenos- what you do today could burn your a.s tomorrow! Thanks, Steve I will look at that thing again. I sure thought it was one piece. Thought the parts guy said so too.... Anyway-----if I did have to put new hubs on, should new bearings/races/seals go in also? I remember seeing a guy doing one and he was using the old bearings. I kinda figured he was messing up. Thanks again. Pete >> Hi To all: >> Got a 2002 Chev S-10 -2 WD-that needs new front rotors. When I change the [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > Seals are > Timken or BCA/National part #4739 > Thanks, Steve > I will look at that thing again. I sure thought it was one piece. Thought [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Thanks again. > Pete Its a one piece hub and rotor and will have new races already installed. If the old bearings look ok, ie no mars, or burnishing then clean and repack the bearings and use them over. Always use a new seal. Make sure you use a good high quality bearing grease rated for disk brakes. I like Kendall L-427 Super Blue. If I cant find that I go with Valvoline SynPower. both are ultra high temp grease. Whitelightning > Thanks, Steve > I will look at that thing again. I sure thought it was one piece. Thought [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Thanks again. > Pete Yep, Skipped the 2WD... Oh well that will teach me to reply to posts without reading closer. Sorry. Anyway, Yes you will need the bearings and seals. New units don't usually come with the races pressed in, and removing the old ones, cleaning and re-lubing the bearings is a PIA. Also make sure that you get the wheel studs as well. Some include them and some don't. Why are you replacing the rotors? Worn below limits? SignatureSteve W. Thanks for all the info on this , guys. Yep, I had steering wobble on braking. Left rotor was warped somewhat. Had 'em turned , but the guy said probably no more could be taken off. Braking was ok, but now it's starting to wobble the steering wheel a bit when I brake. It' the front left one that's doing it, but will change both when I do it. Pete >> Thanks, Steve >> I will look at that thing again. I sure thought it was one piece. Thought [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > Why are you replacing the rotors? Worn below limits? > Thanks for all the info on this , guys. > Yep, I had steering wobble on braking. Left rotor was warped somewhat. Had [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > It' the front left one that's doing it, but will change both when I do it. > Pete The warped rotor is a symptom, not the desease. and if its the same rotor warped again, then you have a caliper hanging up, or a bad flex line. If your replace the hoses ie flex lines replace both of them, and dont mix brands of hoses.. If the caliper is the culprit, again I would replace both, in fact I would look for "loaded" calipers. They come with all new mounting hardware and pads. Whitelightning Hey Lightning How would that work? If I had bad hoses or caliper....I reckon the brake would be riding on that rotor????? This truck is easy to roll....no brakes riding. No heat after running on those rotors either???? If the brake ain't dragging, would that rule out a bad caliper or hose? It ain't pulling to the left either.... What else would cause the rotor to warp if not heat from the brake riding...anything? Let me also say that when I first pulled the rotors off and had 'em turned. The machinist at parts place told me they were mighty thin and he might not be able to keep 'em in spec. When I went back to get them , he said they were just barely in spec and no more turns were left in them. I got this thing used and it's in good shape, generally. Also, I am assuming the wobble is caused by the rotor as it is exactly the same as the time before. Gradually slowing down and lightly applying brakes causes the steering wheel to pulsate/wobble a bit and it seems to pull to the left a little. Just as before. Thanks for your help. You have saved me a bunch of bucks before, but you probably don't remember it....A cable was broke on the carb linkage to the transmission on a full size Chev Impala. It was shifting crazy and you told me to check the cable...shure enough...it was broke...ha ha. Thanks again. Pete/MS >> Thanks for all the info on this , guys. >> Yep, I had steering wobble on braking. Left rotor was warped somewhat. [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > Whitelightning > Hey Lightning > How would that work? If I had bad hoses or caliper....I reckon the brake [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > Thanks again. > Pete/MS A caliper that isn't sliding evenly could cause that problem just by physical bending of the rotor. Take a close look at the pads and measure them on both ends. If they are evenly worn then the caliper is likely free and sliding OK. If either end is worn more the caliper is not sliding evenly. OR if yours has the 2 piston calipers one piston may be binding. SignatureSteve W. Near Cooperstown, New York Thanks Steve I am saving all this and when I decide to jack it up and go to work , I will reread all this good info and know what I'm looking for. Thanks for the great info. Pete >> Hey Lightning >> How would that work? If I had bad hoses or caliper....I reckon the brake [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > and sliding OK. If either end is worn more the caliper is not sliding > evenly. OR if yours has the 2 piston calipers one piston may be binding.
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