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Car Forum / Chevrolet / Chevrolet Trucks / September 2005Are my wheels too big???
I probably should've asked this before ordering the wheels, but oh well... I ordered a set of 8-lug, 16x10 Eagle Alloy rims to match up the new 14 bolt I'm installing in my K5 Blazer. I've now begun to question my judgement. I'm assuming that the the stock wheels are 15x10. I run 31x10.50's on them. They are the 6-lug late-80's Rally type that normally uses a trim ring and center caps that bolt onto the rim. I'm concerned that with the wider wheels that I might get a little tire rub. I'm not taking this thing off road just yet, still got to get some lift because I do plan on running 35's or better. I'd still like to run the stock diameter (31") for the time being. Can I get a 31" tire for a 16" rim? I saw 33's on a Suburban recently with no lift, so I think I can fit them on there. Or did I just do something stupid by ordering the rims without thinking it through...? ~JP > I probably should've asked this before ordering the wheels, but oh > well... [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > ~JP Honestly a 10 inch wide wheel is too big for a 31" tire a 8" would be more in order up to 33's or so because the wider the rim, the more likely there will be interferance on the front axle when turning because of increased rim width and offset. It can be a balancing act at times.  Signature----------------- www.thesnoman.com Well... Just checked the clearance (visually). 33's should fit without any tire rub as long as I keep it on the street and don't drive like an idiot. But your comment brings to mind an article I read recently about "scrub radius" or something like that. Basically it just stated that if you drew a straight line following the angle of the kingpin going all the way to the ground, the middle of the tire should meet that line for best steering results. But still... I have 16x10's on the way and NO lift. So 33's are about as big as I can reasonably fit under there. Am I correct that my existing wheels are 10" wide? Again, they're stock K5 4x4 Chevy wheels. I just checked some stock wheels for sale on eBay. They list the 6 lug wheels as 15x8's. I'm assuming the 10.50" tread would work fine on the 10" wide wheels. > Well... Just checked the clearance (visually). 33's should fit without > any tire rub as long as I keep it on the street and don't drive like an [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > wheels as 15x8's. I'm assuming the 10.50" tread would work fine on the > 10" wide wheels. Stock GM wagon wheels were 15X8 Stock Rally wheels are 8inch. You will have to do a bit of fender trimming with 35s on 10inch wheels. I am running 33x10.5-15's on 15x10's. They look perfect. fill the wheel wells great, barely stick out at all in front, and wear and handle awesome! If you are planning on running only a 31inch tire with 4.56 gears, I hope you have an overdrive! Also, a 31inch tire less than 12inches wide will give you a pretty choppy ride on a 10inch wheel. If you run a set of 255/85-16's, the 10 inch wheels will be great! Tire selection is far to limited in that size, but it comes out to 33x10.5's. Depending on what region your in, there are a couple great mudders in that size. If your in a place that sees any serious snow/ice, look for a tread that has allot of siping. The extra inch of sidewall from a 31x10.5 and a 33x10.5 does make a big difference. I ran the exact same wheel(15x10) on the same vehicle('85 Suburban) with the same tire brand and tread design(BFG A/T) and the ride difference was more than noticeable! >I probably should've asked this before ordering the wheels, but oh > well... [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > ~JP I did notice while tire shopping online and through the magazine ads that the selection of tires for 16" wheels in general seems limited. 33's are what I'm shooting for. And yep, I have the 700R4 tranny, so I got OD too. The RPM calculator on Randy's Ring & Pinion's site shows I'll be pulling 1950rpm @ 60mph. Before, with the 3.08 gears and 31" tires I was pulling 1402. Their guidelines show the recommended RPM range on a small-block Chevy to be 1800-2800rpm, so the 4.56's and 33's should be a good combo. A buddy has the same config of gears and tires on his Jeep and it works quite well. Well, if I can change the order (hopefully it hasn't shipped) would you recommend getting an 8 inch wide wheel instead of a 10" ?? And then using a 33x10.50R16 (or close to that)? I would recommend going with 8inch wheels if you are going to go with less than a 33+ inch tire. Running a 265 with an 8inch wheel would be a great combination! Comparing your full size 4x4 Chevy truck to a jeep is like comparing the MPG of a Suburban to that of a Honda Civic! You have almost twice the weight... There are an AMAZING amount of height and width combinations when it comes to tires for 16inch wheels. >I did notice while tire shopping online and through the magazine ads > that the selection of tires for 16" wheels in general seems limited. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > recommend getting an 8 inch wide wheel instead of a 10" ?? And then > using a 33x10.50R16 (or close to that)? >I did notice while tire shopping online and through the magazine ads >that the selection of tires for 16" wheels in general seems limited. [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] >recommend getting an 8 inch wide wheel instead of a 10" ?? And then >using a 33x10.50R16 (or close to that)? You have done your home work some on gear ratios but just remember that it is not all simple math because with larger tires and increased height also come increased drag and the lowest possible RPM is not always the best for MPG. A heavier truck truck needs to turn more RPM cruising for best performance and MPG because you do not want to have it kick out of OD on most hills on interstate. Myself, I think 2100 to 2200 rpm at 60 with a GM SB in a 4x4 is a better compromise for power of MPG in OD. 265/75R16's seem pretty easy to come by. The metric to inches conversion puts them at 10.82" wide and 31.65" tall. That'd keep the stock tire diameter. BTW, I need to be able to fit into the parking deck at work (for now). Otherwise, I'd lift and some some 35's on there :-) That's why the stock tire diameter is important to me. Will the 14-bolt add any height? I was just thinking, being that the axle tubes are a larger diameter, won't the spring perches be higher/closer to the body, adding just a hair of lift? ~JP >265/75R16’s seem pretty easy to come by. The metric to inches >conversion puts them at 10.82" wide and 31.65" tall. That’d >keep the stock tire diameter. > >~JP That is max tire body width, not tread or rim width and this figure is frequently used improperly for determining needed rim width. The tread width is the main factor in rim width needs. don't know abotu width-- but if you're taking this thing offroad, 16" wheels were a mistake. Investigate the issue of the rim bead and you'll see what I mean. 16inch wheels are no problem taking off road for low tire pressures...its the 16.5 that has no bead holding lip...16's do! > don't know abotu width-- but if you're taking this thing offroad, 16" > wheels were a mistake. Investigate the issue of the rim bead and you'll > see what I mean. Ok... after looking at a few previous posts on this NG, I'm seeing the opposite--that 16.5" rims don't have a good bead, and that the 16" is a better wheel. Also, a quick eBay search turned up 106 items when searching "`16.5 wheel*" and over 4000 items when searching for 16 wheel*. There's a lot more 16" wheels available. If they are worse, why such a huge supply? BTW, 15" wheels won't fit my 14-bolt, correct? 15 inch wheels WILL fit a GM 14bolt but will NOT fit with un-heavily-modified front breaks(LOTS of grinding). The only 15inch 8lug wheel made is the white-spoke. > Ok... after looking at a few previous posts on this NG, I'm seeing the > opposite--that 16.5" rims don't have a good bead, and that the 16" is a [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > BTW, 15" wheels won't fit my 14-bolt, correct? Well, this is the FF 14-bolt REAR, and it's got the factory drum brakes... yea...and 15inch wheels will fit! I have put 15inch wheels on 3/4T trucks from early '70 into the '80 vintage. 15inch wheels fit GM 14bolt rears with no problems, they are a major problem fitting on the front. I will send you some pics of a 10.5 ring gear 14bolt with 15inchers on if you like...I have one sitting in front of my home right now. > Well, this is the FF 14-bolt REAR, and it's got the factory drum > brakes... How much backspacing would you recommend for this thing? I did manage to cancel the order--they hadn't shipped. So I can now order 16x8's instead of the 16x10's. Its rare to be able to select the backspacing, but if you can, ask the company that you are getting the wheels from. That's what their service dept. is there for. I do believe that the standard backspacing is 4.5inch on a 16x8inch. I think you said you were going with American Racing Wheels? If so, go with their AR-23! Its an awesome looking wheel on the '73-'87 style Chevy! The OutlawII is another awesome one. I wish they made the AR-23 in a 16x10! :-( > How much backspacing would you recommend for this thing? I did manage > to cancel the order--they hadn't shipped. So I can now order 16x8's > instead of the 16x10's. When you say "front end" which axle are you talking about? A Dana 60? Cause I've never seen or heard of a 14-bolt front end. I have heard of custom Dana 70 fronts, and I saw an article where Dana started making one to be offered as standard on something huge, like an F-450 or something. Send a pic of a 14-bolt front end if you got one. I'd love to see that! I actually have decided on Eagle Alloy's style 058. They look kinda like the AR Mojaves, which I'd really prefer, but don't want to spend twice the $$$ on. The Mojave is available in black, the Eagle Alloy isn't... I suppose I'm gonna get em powder coated or painted later. I REALLY want black rims. Concerning the backspacing...the loaner Suburban I'm driving now (till the K5 is fixed) has 31x10.50's like the K5, but they stick out more, so I'm supposing the wheels have less backspacing (or more). It definitely looks better, and may explain why the Sub handles exactly like my K5--it has a wider track and therefore it's more stable....? --inline-- > When you say "front end" which axle are you talking about? A Dana 60? > Cause I've never seen or heard of a 14-bolt front end. I must have been more confusing than usual...The 14bolt I mentioned was the rear-end, the front I have is a HD DANA 44! 3/4T and 1T cant fit 15inchers on the FRONT without modification. > I have heard of custom Dana 70 fronts, and I saw an article where Dana > started making one to be offered as standard on something huge, like an [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > like the AR Mojaves, which I'd really prefer, but don't want to spend > twice the $$$ on. Very similar to the AR Baja...Problem I see with that wheel design is that they are VERY popular. I prefer to be different enough that I get noticed without standing out . > The Mojave is available in black, the Eagle Alloy isn't... I suppose > I'm gonna get em powder coated or painted later. I REALLY want black > rims. And aluminum too, huh? > Concerning the backspacing...the loaner Suburban I'm driving now (till > the K5 is fixed) has 31x10.50's like the K5, but they stick out more, > so I'm supposing the wheels have less backspacing (or more). It > definitely looks better, and may explain why the Sub handles exactly > like my K5--it has a wider track and therefore it's more stable....? Suburbans are also more stable due to the longer wheelbase. If the wheels stick out more on one than the other, then they are either non-stock or different widths. Just bought a set of Outlaw II's for my 87 K5 (15x10) on 35x12.50 with a backspacing of 4" . Only problem is that I couldn't get my fronts balanced with weights (I wanted the weights to be in the back) without the calipers knocking them off. I just put in some BB's and then I was good to go. I agree....the Outlaw II's are very nice. I have a 4" Tuff Country lift and they ride super nice. I fell in love with my truck all over again!! > --inline-- > [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > stick out more on one than the other, then they are either non-stock or > different widths. OH...Ok... I was a bit confused for a moment. My next question was going to be "Where can I get one!!?!??!" Well, seeing as how the front 10-bolt will eventually be swapped in favor of a Dana 60, I think it's best to go with some wheels that'll fit over the brakes. Yep, the Eagles are indeed very similar to the Bajas. I know they're not terribly unique looking, but I'm not going for flash in the wheel dept. I like plain and simple, utilitarian looking things. Yeah, they're aluminum. And yes, I'd prefer them in black. I'm moving toward getting the whole thing as black as possible (body, bumpers, mirrors, wheels, etc...). I have quite a ways to go there, seeing as how it's currently white with white rims. The wheels on that Sub are not stock. They're something a previous owner installed. There's no wheel spacers, and the tires are the same size as the ones on my K5, so the back spacing on them must be different. They do stick out by at least 1.5 inches more than the K5's tires. Aftermarket wheels do typically have different backspacing than factory. > OH...Ok... I was a bit confused for a moment. My next question was > going to be "Where can I get one!!?!??!" [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > different. They do stick out by at least 1.5 inches more than the K5's > tires. Well, I'm going to check the spacing on the stock and the aftermarket wheels, and probably go with the offset that the aftermarket ones have. They look better, and I think it'd add a little cornering stability during street driving. ...and more stress on ball joints and wheel bearings... > Well, I'm going to check the spacing on the stock and the aftermarket > wheels, and probably go with the offset that the aftermarket ones have. > > They look better, and I think it'd add a little cornering stability > during street driving. Well tell me this, what's the WMS-to-WMS measurement on a 1/2 ton as opposed to the 1 ton? Will the 1 ton axle upgrade push the wheels out further? Would a wheel with zero offset (WMS is in the middle of the tire) stress the joints and bearings the least? WMS? > Well tell me this, what's the WMS-to-WMS measurement on a 1/2 ton as > opposed to the 1 ton? [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Would a wheel with zero offset (WMS is in the middle of the tire) > stress the joints and bearings the least? Just replace the damn wheels with what ever size you want, then if it rubs the fenders or whatever deal with it then. > WMS? > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Would a wheel with zero offset (WMS is in the middle of the tire) > > stress the joints and bearings the least? BARKBARKBARK > Just replace the damn wheels with what ever size you want, then if it rubs > the fenders or whatever deal with it then. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >> > Would a wheel with zero offset (WMS is in the middle of the tire) >> > stress the joints and bearings the least? wheel mounting surface... The width of the entire axle assembly with everything but the wheels attached--hub to hub. I think a 14 bolt is usually like 67", although vans had wider ones than trucks. And duallies have even wider axles than that. Some use an axle from a van or dually to widen the rear track without modifying the axle. Although from what I've seen, using a van axle requires you to cut off the spring perches and weld new ones on. The van's spring placement is different than trucks. gotcha...I have always known it as hub-to-hub... There always seems to be variances, but 69inches is the standard front axle width on 1/2T-1T Chevy's. I believe rears are 65inches and vans do run 69inches...and yea, the perches are 4inches(roughly) wider for the vans. Getting a 14bolt 10.5 ring gear from a van installed in my truck is a goal of mine. You can get dually studs and flange from a dually and install them on the rear-end to get the wider track. > wheel mounting surface... > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > requires you to cut off the spring perches and weld new ones on. The > van's spring placement is different than trucks. Well, if you need a ladder in order to climb into your rig...........the answer is yes Wheels have no direct effect on the height of the truck...tires and suspension lift do. > Well, if you need a ladder in order to climb into your > rig...........the answer is yes no the bigger the better my cousin has a k5 blazer to and we got 48 on our k5 and we only use it for tree jobs and other sh.t like 4-wheelin in it we take the top off you should see the mess if you like to 4 wheel hard and ruff. it's got a rebuilt 350 and we are putting a 460 big block ford motor in it it is nice he was going to sell it for 300 buck. demoderby44 |
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