91 chev s10 blazer 4wd-----have really annoying fred flintstone wheel or old
logging truck sort of noise in front.  It is like one would have from real
big knobby tires, xept i do not have them on vehicle at this time.  It
sounded like a gear noise like a bad pinion bearing or something, so I
replaced the front differential already--BUT that had no effect on the
oise  --and its not engaged as I have vacuum actuator line disconnected for
now.  As another test i took transfer case out of gear to test --coasted
downhill with transfer case in neutral--noise still there.  It relates to
road speed, and is present at all roadspeed fast or slow.   I rotated tires,
no effect.    (as mentioned before, these are NOT knobby or oversize
tires) --- Could this be wheel bearing?    Neither front wheel feels loose,
and no knocking sound when cornering as one would expect with a bad wheel
bearing.
  Noise disappears if vehicle goes off downslope from one of those sharp
rises in the road--which would be like taking load off wheel bearing.  Last
time up on jack, I spun each front wheel --found that the one on right side
sounds a little rough, of course this is with wheel off load.  When on road
load would be on it--which supposely would make it sound worse.
 Would like to hear if anyone else has had this noise or have had any
experience with bad front wheel bearings or whatever related to strange
noises in the front.
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Other experiences to relate:
I had to replace the remote oil filter lines, they leaked like sieve.  Cost
100 bucks from chevy dealer.
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Had to do the gas tank and fuel pump routine.  Pump from pep boys
40$--Carter brand,  removing tank is a pain in the a.s-as all the mounts
were rusted--took 3 hours to do a derust and repaint of tank exterior and
the mounts.  had to get new mount ring from chevy dealer -it comes with new
o ring.  --if any o yous do this, yeah if you like punishment--be sure to
clean the o ring mount well then grease it well to prevent rust and to get
good seal to satisfy the picky emissions inspectors (if you have to get
emissions test in your area)  Fuel pump symptoms were intermittent cut-out
of the fuel pump motor, you know like a flat spot in the commutator or some
such thing.   Usually ocurred at start up time.   Tried relay first but that
did not last long and was misleading.
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   Had to replace both torsion bar mounts--both were broken--also had to
level the front suspension as previous jerk owner had the torsion bars
adjusted way too high causing adverse angle of front cv axles, which can
wear them out prematurely and cause vibration.  One boot was shot, took axle
off to replace it.
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   Rebuilt throttle body with kit, found some clogged passages.  The spring
in regulator was broken, replaced it with a substitute as i had to get car
running to get to work next day--its close enough and works great---book and
instructions are BS as to how to install the spring --had to drill through
the spring retainer to put a pin in it to hold spring, then after mounting
the diaphragm and screwing down the screws ya pulls the pin and voila!  all
set. No fussing with trying to mount the diaphragm with the spring pushing
against it and as such working against you.  --as example this is just like
using pin to retain starter brushes at assembly of a starter.  Use bailing
wire as pin because it'll bend slightly to clear interference fit of
adjuster head. Hole hurts nothing as the spring retainer is open to
atmosphere anyway, put hole through both walls 180 degrees apart at location
to hold spring in place.
 Injectors are tough to get out as the old o ring has stiffened up.    I
put the thing upside down between two wood blocks and tapped each injector
out with hammer and a socket of correct size--just be sure to stay off of
the nozzle!   To install clean it thoroughly first of course and put o ring
in before you put injector in, use a little grease on the injector so it'll
slide over the o ring  --everything has to seal or it'll leak!   Be
careful-- if not you'll have to buy a rebuilt or new throttle body.    Mine
works great--no leaks.  Kit was 35 bucks at autozone--you'll need number of
your throttle body, so clean the faces of it to find/see the numbers.
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   Much more but not tonight.