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Car Forum / Chevrolet / Chevrolet Trucks / November 2005

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RE: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM PROBLEMS WITH VOLTAGE

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Bullet - 18 Nov 2005 19:38 GMT
I have a 97 Chevy Blazer 4x4 with a little over 113K miles. I've been
having problems with the voltage for a while now. The voltage gauge
swings from 14v to about 10.5v when I stop at a traffic light or a stop
sign. I'm convinced the gauge is not to blame because when I put a load
on it, it indicates 10 to 10.5v, the Dash lights dim, the headlights
will also dim. I've already replaced (3) alternators on this Truck (2)
batteries within (4) months and everything is still the same. The gauge
will read just above 14v and sometimes even 16.2v while am driving the
truck with no problem but the minute I stop at a traffic light the
Voltage Gauge drops down to 10v or 10.5v depending on what accessories
am runnning on my truck. The truck starts up good and the Voltage reads
a perfect 16.2v but the minute the truck is warmed up the Voltage then
starts to drop to about 11.5v then to 10.5v and then to10v Depending on
what accessories is running on the Truck. Temperature and frequency
between trips seems to not make a difference either. The only thing I
have done to the truck even remotely connected to the electrical system
is to swap the radio, but I used a wire harness to connect the wiring.
I've already checked for loose wires or bad grounds and their is none.
I've even had a addtional grounding wires installed but that did not
help either. Other than I'm lost. Any help?
homer - 18 Nov 2005 23:54 GMT
Maybe check the alternator

>I have a 97 Chevy Blazer 4x4 with a little over 113K miles. I've been
>having problems with the voltage for a while now. The voltage gauge
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>I've even had a addtional grounding wires installed but that did not
>help either. Other than I'm lost. Any help?
Bullet - 20 Nov 2005 02:57 GMT
THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY BUT I ALREADY DID THAT. AND I 'VE EVEN REPLACE IT
3 TIMES AND I STILL HAVE THE SAME PROBLEMS..
Elbert - 20 Nov 2005 03:13 GMT
>THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY BUT I ALREADY DID THAT. AND I 'VE EVEN REPLACE IT
>3 TIMES AND I STILL HAVE THE SAME PROBLEMS..

I think it might help  to quote the original msg. in your reply...
so that others in the group could see the question and the reply
and provide additional information if needed.

you can configure your newsreader to do this automatically.
---
Elbert Clarke
elbert.clarke@**adelphia.net
remove ** to email
Steve Mackie - 18 Nov 2005 23:59 GMT
I just went through this on my '95 Monte. Mine turned out to be bad
connections at the power distribution block.

First thing I did was test to see if the low voltage was system wide. I did
this by checking the voltage at every fuse and isolating which ones were at
the low voltage. Only a few were at the lower voltage and others were
normal. The voltage at the battery was also normal. This lead me back to the
power distribution block beside the battery. I took it all apart, cleaned it
up and all is like new.

Here's a link to the thread:

http://tinyurl.com/d2qnp

Steve

> I have a 97 Chevy Blazer 4x4 with a little over 113K miles. I've been
> having problems with the voltage for a while now. The voltage gauge
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> I've even had a addtional grounding wires installed but that did not
> help either. Other than I'm lost. Any help?
Bullet - 20 Nov 2005 03:01 GMT
WHAT YOU WROTE SOUNDS LIKE IT WILL FOR ME BUT I NEED YOU TO WRITE THE
INSTRUCTIONS DOWN FOR ME STEP BY STEP AND WITH MORE SPECIFIC DETAILS IF
YOU MAY ...PLEASE .. EMAIL ME  THANKS IN ADVANCE!!
Big Al - 19 Nov 2005 00:07 GMT
> I have a 97 Chevy Blazer 4x4 with a little over 113K miles. I've been
> having problems with the voltage for a while now. The voltage gauge
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> I've even had a addtional grounding wires installed but that did not
> help either. Other than I'm lost. Any help?

Try checking the voltage right at the battery. With the engine at a fast
idle and no accessories, then at a fast idle with headlamps on and the
heater blower on high. If you need a meter, Harbor Freight has them for
around $4.00 on sale. There are more tests to make but start with these. One
seemingly obvious thing a lot of folks miss is the belt. It has to be tight.

Al
Bullet - 20 Nov 2005 03:02 GMT
I DID THAT ALREADY AND IT READ JUST FINE.. AND I STILL HAVE THE SAME
PROBLEMS.. THANKS FOR TRYING TO HELP ME..
Advocate - 19 Nov 2005 00:44 GMT
Other than I'm lost. Any help?

Check your ground...from the battery to the frame.
Bullet - 20 Nov 2005 03:04 GMT
I ALSO DID THAT. I EVEN HAD ADDITION GROUNDS INSTALLED TOO. AND THAT
DID NOT HELP..
Charles Bendig - 19 Nov 2005 02:58 GMT
> I have a 97 Chevy Blazer 4x4 with a little over 113K miles. I've been
> having problems with the voltage for a while now. The voltage gauge
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> I've even had a addtional grounding wires installed but that did not
> help either. Other than I'm lost. Any help?

    Before changing another battery or alternator:
Clean the terminals.
Check the pig tail from the distributor for damage or a lose wire in the
connector.
Get 'em warmed up, and take a trip to a autoparts store that has a
battery & alternator in vehicle load tester. Have it checked. Have them
run the test a few times try different accessiories.
Charles

   
Bullet - 20 Nov 2005 03:06 GMT
I'LL CHECK THAT TO SEE IF IT'S A PROBLEM THANK YOU FOR YOUR REPLY!!!
Mark & Sharla Thompson - 20 Nov 2005 22:24 GMT
I had a similar problem on my 95 5.7 K1500 trailer towing package several
weeks ago.....was getting low voltage and had a leaking battery terminal.
Replaced the battery and the starter went out the next day, don't think it
was related as I just replaced it 6 wks before (200,950 miles on the
original starter!), just a bad rebuilt starter. Anyway, replaced the
positive battery cable that goes from the battery to the drivers side
firewall distribution box as it was corroded from the inside from where the
battery had been leaking into it. The trailer towing package has two
positive leads that go to the positive side of the battery. One goes to the
starter and the other goes to the firewall distribution box. Cleaned all
connections and still had the fluxuating voltage. Would crank right up first
in the morning then later wouldn't crank at all, would just click. Would
tighten up the battery terminal, and would work fine for a little while and
start the whole process over. After overtighting the terminals on two
batteries and causing the positive side side mounts to come out we found out
what the problem was. The lead spacer that goes between the positive side
cables to the positive side post of the battery had been squashed down to
less than a 1/4 inch over the years. I put in a new spacer, it is like a
half inch or more in thickness and now that has fixed all of my electrical
problems. What was happening with the old spacer was that when I tightened
down the terminal on the positive side the long battery bolt would go thru
the side mount bung and poke a hole thru the battery. Thank goodness for
O'Reilly's liberal battery return policy, as it took two batteries to
discover what the problem was. Now both the terminals are good and tight and
I get a solid 14 volts in the middle of the voltmeter all the time now. This
is a little long winded but hopes it might help someone out there......Mark

>I have a 97 Chevy Blazer 4x4 with a little over 113K miles. I've been
> having problems with the voltage for a while now. The voltage gauge
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> I've even had a addtional grounding wires installed but that did not
> help either. Other than I'm lost. Any help?
Martin Riddle - 23 Nov 2005 23:48 GMT
The lead spacer is a typical problem. It can also cause alternator failures.

Cheers

> I had a similar problem on my 95 5.7 K1500 trailer towing package several
> weeks ago.....was getting low voltage and had a leaking battery terminal.
[quoted text clipped - 43 lines]
> > I've even had a addtional grounding wires installed but that did not
> > help either. Other than I'm lost. Any help?
Martin Riddle - 24 Nov 2005 00:18 GMT
This is normal. Believe it or not.
The alternators are set not to deliver full power at idle so they will not fail in hot weather.

One way around this is to get a smaller alterantor pulley. Since you changed the alternator, you may have gotten a larger pulley by
mistake.
You can calculate the rpm needed, then using the diameters find a smaller pulley that will help.
Dont go too small, as the alternator may then fail because it will be subject to higher rpms are higher engin speeds (4500 rpm). I
believe 8000-9000 rpm is the upper limit.

Another approach is to replace the alternator with a larger unit, such as those used on police and fire vehicles.
http://www.wagneralt.com/

And if your savy, you can experiment with different mfgs' voltage regulators, this worked for me.

Good luck

> I have a 97 Chevy Blazer 4x4 with a little over 113K miles. I've been
> having problems with the voltage for a while now. The voltage gauge
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> I've even had a addtional grounding wires installed but that did not
> help either. Other than I'm lost. Any help?
Steve Mackie - 24 Nov 2005 00:29 GMT
> This is normal. Believe it or not.
> The alternators are set not to deliver full power at idle so they will not fail in hot weather.

Erroneous statements.

An alternator outputting 10.5V at idle is NOT normal. At idle, an alternator
will put out anywhere between 13.0V and 14.5V depending on load. If the
battery is at a low charge, you can expect to see around 14.5V. If the
battery does not require any charging and there is no big load (ie high
beams, rear defogger, large stereo), expect to see 13.5V or so.

What is the source of your information?

Steve
Elbert - 24 Nov 2005 01:28 GMT
>> This is normal. Believe it or not.
>> The alternators are set not to deliver full power at idle so they will not
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
>Steve

as you say above the alternator has to put out over 12.v at idle to
charge the battery.   At idle once again you should see around 13.v if
the alternator is working properly.  

I believe the amp output changes with rpm and load.

---
elbert.clarke@**adelphia.net
remove ** to email
Martin Riddle - 24 Nov 2005 03:30 GMT
You seem to have left out the fact that th OP stated that 'Under load' the voltage drops to 10-10.5 volts at idle.

> > This is normal. Believe it or not.
> > The alternators are set not to deliver full power at idle so they will not
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
> Steve
Steve Mackie - 24 Nov 2005 03:49 GMT
Yup, was I supposed to include that in my response?

> You seem to have left out the fact that th OP stated that 'Under load' the voltage drops to 10-10.5 volts at idle.
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> >
> > Steve
Steve Mackie - 24 Nov 2005 03:56 GMT
Although, this is GM's response to the problem:

http://users.eastlink.ca/~smackie/tsb001.pdf
http://users.eastlink.ca/~smackie/tsb002.pdf
http://users.eastlink.ca/~smackie/tsb003.pdf

But not mine. When my vehicle started to exhibit these symptoms I fixed it.
My mom's Intrigue started doing it and the dealer wouldn't do anything other
than respond with "it's normal." She didn't care anyways, got rid of the
car.

Regardless, if it didn't do it when it rolled off the assembly line, it's
not normal and it can be fixed.

Steve

> Yup, was I supposed to include that in my response?
>
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> > >
> > > Steve
Martin Riddle - 24 Nov 2005 19:12 GMT
I agree its not they way it should work.

My 95 when new did not have low voltage at idle. Until the Alternator went south.
After a few rebuilts and research I discovered the CS130's voltage regulator was modified to temperature compensate. Thus lowering
the voltage at idle. And Im sure they may have increased the size of the pully.
As for the newer alternator, (I forget the model)  there are 2 fans to help the problem. But I see it still exists.
These problem all stem from the fact the the alternator are small  in size, with no where for the heat to go.

Tips:
Dont  get a rebuilt alternator, go to the dealer. The newer units have the up to date fixes. Although they use voltage regulators
that have been pulled.

The best voltage regulator (cs130) I found was made by USI Universal Scientific Industrial Co. 71-10011HD. I believe there is a new
cross for the number. DMOS output for the Field allows for a higher Amp output, and a higher voltage at idle. Most pulls dont give
good regulation of voltage at idle. And yes GM does use pulls in new alts.

Measure your pulley before you trade a bad one in!

Yes, if you need low rpm power you'll need a larger alternator. I believe the next size is 130A, but it requires new brackets.

The days of Delta Wye change are long gone.

BTW if anyone has tried the 'Iceberg' CS130 let us know. Its supposed to be 120A with a modified bearing/rectifier carrier.

Cheers!

> Although, this is GM's response to the problem:
>
[quoted text clipped - 38 lines]
> > > >
> > > > Steve
 
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