Hi all,
Just had my favorite mechanic change the intake gasket on my 91 suburban
(350). Specifically asked him not to use a scotchbrite pad to clean the
heads but he did anyway. I am concerned that there may be debris in the
oil. I have heard of stories of these pads leaving particles that have
destroyed the bearings. He ran if for two hours after finishing it up and
then changed the oil before he gave it back to me. The question, should I
change the oil again in a few hundred miles to make sure there is nothing in
the oil or not worry about it. He is a good mechanic so I trust he was
clean about what he did but I just wanted to see what the Olympic wisdom was
about this.. As a side note he did check all of the things suggested here
(timing chain, crank seals ect) and did not find a problem, in fact he said
it was in amazingly good shape for 150k on the clock. Thanks for the help.
Mark
Shep - 16 Jan 2006 00:20 GMT
You favorite mechanic should know better here, but in his defense he may
have covered up all the areas around where he was doing work to prevent
entry into the engine, if there is any in there the damage would be done
quickly, what did he say about this?
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> Mark
Shades - 16 Jan 2006 17:07 GMT
Scotch Brite, huh...? I would never use one on an assembled engine...or even
on any component after hot-tanking!
Him not doing what you requested isn't being a 'trusted Mechanic' now is
it? I think I would have a long talk with your 'trusted Mechanic' about this
issue. I will say this though, its amazing how clean something can be kept
with balled up paper towels and a small shop vac.
For the particles to get to the bearings they would have to go through the
oil filter...not likely. Now cylinder walls...THAT would be far more
likely. That and oil pump impellers. Neither of which are near as soft as
bearing surfaces. If there was gonna be any damage, it would have happened
already.
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> Mark
r_d - 17 Jan 2006 00:04 GMT
> Scotch Brite, huh...? I would never use one on an assembled engine...or
> even on any component after hot-tanking!
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> bearing surfaces. If there was gonna be any damage, it would have happened
> already.
I don't know if he used a scotch brite pad but at least a wire brush was
used to clean the heads. I don't completely understand why... All of the
intakes I have ever done nothing more was required then 5 min with a single
edge razor and some carb cleaner to clean the gasket surfaces...
Well... I checked the oil today and it turning dark. Which was a shock as
it was a clean as a bell before I left his shop. I went ahead and drove it
around for 20 miles and then changed the oil as hot as I could get it
(wanted to get it all in suspension). What came out was dirty but it
appeared to be soot, no metal at all and nothing was stuck to the magnetic
drain plug. The oil filter actually had a very fine black sludge in it but
also nothing that was metallic. I ran my fingers though the oil and oil
filter spoils and I could not feel any grit what so ever, so the material
was fine enough I could not feel it. I will keep an eye on it and change
it in a hundred miles or if it starts to get dirty before then, I will
change it again and again if necessary. Everything else is ok, oil pressure
is as before, temp is ok and it runs smooth. No unusual sounds or smells...
Thank you to all who offered advice it was appreciated.
mark
Hairy - 17 Jan 2006 03:30 GMT
Just had my favorite mechanic change the intake gasket on my 91 suburban
(350). Specifically asked him not to use a scotchbrite pad to clean the
heads but he did anyway.
> I don't know if he used a scotch brite pad but at least a wire brush was
> used to clean the heads.
I suppose your next post will be;
Oh, never mind. I was just dreaming.
r_d - 17 Jan 2006 12:14 GMT
> Just had my favorite mechanic change the intake gasket on my 91 suburban
> (350). Specifically asked him not to use a scotchbrite pad to clean the
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> Oh, never mind. I was just dreaming.
I wish, I did not see him do the job so I am still giving him the benefit of
the doubt. Since I did not find any metal particles I am hoping that it was
a wire brush. When I asked him not to us the scotch brite he responded, "we
always do it that way and have never had any problems" so I assumed when I
saw the scratches on the heads... But I am willing to go with your
suggestion....that one is cheaper. :)
mark
Shades - 17 Jan 2006 13:26 GMT
Scotch-Brite isn't made of metal...Steel wool is...Steel wool on an
assembled engine is, well....hmph...its your engine. I would never go to
that 'Mechanic' to check my tire pressure! Good luck!
>> Just had my favorite mechanic change the intake gasket on my 91 suburban
>> (350). Specifically asked him not to use a scotchbrite pad to clean the
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> mark
Charles Bendig - 17 Jan 2006 12:21 GMT
>>Scotch Brite, huh...? I would never use one on an assembled engine...or
>>even on any component after hot-tanking!
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
>
> mark
When ever you remove parts for service, you disturb sediment and sludge
build up. So finding this in the oil after 3 or 4 hours is not unusual.
Charles
Charles Bendig - 17 Jan 2006 12:39 GMT
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> Mark
The issue is with Rol-Lock disks, not with Scotch-Brite pads.
Both 3M products, Both come in Red/Maroon Medium Grit. Yet Both are
Totally Different.
Rol-Lock disks have a compressed Media, which is placed in a press,
with a natural(1 inch thick) Rubber disk. The Press heats to 450 to 700
Degrees Fahrenheit(232 to 370 C). Then with 55 to 70 TONS of pressure
presses the disk to the backing, the heat adheres the disk to the
rubber, the die in the press shapes the rubber, and the heat turns the
rubber in to a hard plastic like material.
Scotch-Brite Pads on the other hand come in 6 foot tall by 4 foot wide
1000 pound rolls. Then are cut in to 4 inch by 8 inch pads in rotary
head stamper.
If you ask someone not to use Scotch-Brite, they will not think you
mean Rol-Lock disks.
Anyone Cleaning a head sealing surface should seal the ports with rags.
Then blow the area off or vacuum the area.
Charles
r_d - 17 Jan 2006 21:47 GMT
> The issue is with Rol-Lock disks, not with Scotch-Brite pads.
> Both 3M products, Both come in Red/Maroon Medium Grit. Yet Both are
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> Then blow the area off or vacuum the area.
> Charles
So it probably is just soot/dirt as suggested. I am going to stay on top of
it and see what happens. Thank you all for all your help, I just need to
get somebody else's opinion.
Your help was appreciated.
mark