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Car Forum / Chevrolet / Chevrolet Trucks / April 2006

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Replacing Fuel Pump.. Drop Tank or Remove Bed?

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JQ - 02 Apr 2006 11:10 GMT
 Truck is a 1990 Chevy k1500, 160k miles. I'm getting battery voltage
to the grey wire on the fuel pump harness, but no fuel pressure/pump
activity. I'm getting ready to drop the tank and check/or replace the
fuel pump unit, but am wondering if it'd be easier to get a few friends
to help me remove the bed and access the pump from above.
 It's a short-bed Stepside model, I was told it was a fiberglass bed
but I think the only fiberglass is the rear fenders.
 Anybody with experience or suggestions before I drop the tank?

Thanks for any info.
Rich B - 02 Apr 2006 14:16 GMT
Before you go replacing the pump, check the ground to make sure it's not
rusted,  causing an open circuit.


Group: alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks Date: Sun, Apr 2, 2006, 10:10am
(EDT+4) From: red_bowfireNOSPAM@sbcglobal.net (JQ)
    Truck is a 1990 Chevy k1500, 160k miles. I'm getting battery
voltage to the grey wire on the fuel pump harness, but no fuel
pressure/pump activity. I'm getting ready to drop the tank and check/or
replace the fuel pump unit, but am wondering if it'd be easier to get a
few friends to help me remove the bed and access the pump from above.
    It's a short-bed Stepside model, I was told it was a
fiberglass bed but I think the only fiberglass is the rear fenders.
    Anybody with experience or suggestions before I drop the
tank?
Thanks for any info.  

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
"Sometimes, when you're up to your butt in alligators, it's hard to
remember that the intial objective was to drain the swamp."  
~ Unknown ~
Steve W. - 02 Apr 2006 20:49 GMT
>   Truck is a 1990 Chevy k1500, 160k miles. I'm getting battery voltage
> to the grey wire on the fuel pump harness, but no fuel pressure/pump
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> Thanks for any info.

Make sure that the ground is good before you replace the pump. It is
usually a short line from the pump to the frame, they rust and go bad.
As for working on it. pulling the bed is MUCH easier, you don't have to
fight with the filler neck or the rusty tank straps. Plus since the pump
is in the top of the tank it means you don't have to fight with the gas
in the tank like you do when you drop the tank.
I also suggest that while you have the bed off, take the chassis to a
car wash and clean it VERY well and throw a coat of chassis paint on it.
Also doesn't hurt to spray the tank and brake/fuel lines to stop them
from rusting as well.
JQ - 03 Apr 2006 03:57 GMT
> Make sure that the ground is good before you replace the pump. It is
> usually a short line from the pump to the frame, they rust and go bad.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> Also doesn't hurt to spray the tank and brake/fuel lines to stop them
> from rusting as well.

Thanks for the replies, I've checked the ground to the frame, sanded the
frame to clean metal, cleaned the bolt and ground wire, still no
difference.

The very last time it started up was ugly, the truck would rev to about
1500 rpms, then sputter down to about 200 rpms, rev, sputter, for about
30 seconds. It finally stalled and never started up again. I've got a
new fuel filter, and checked everything else possible. I use Techron
Fuel Injection Cleaner every tune up, and always buy good gas.

I do usually let the fuel level fall to near empty before fueling up.
Maybe I'll reconsider that with this new pump kit, it comes with a
warning not to let it fall below 1/3 of a tank regularly.

I've got my transmission jack setup to cradle the tank but at its lowest
level I think I'm gonna have some clearance problems pulling the tank
out from  under the truck. Before I go any further I'm gonna see what
exactly I need to do to raise the bed up. If it's straight forward I
might go that route.

I live in a dry climate so rust isn't much of a concern, the underside
is pretty clean. But my next step after replacing the fuel pump is to
get the truck painted so I might do just that anyways.
Big Al - 03 Apr 2006 15:07 GMT
>   Truck is a 1990 Chevy k1500, 160k miles. I'm getting battery voltage
> to the grey wire on the fuel pump harness, but no fuel pressure/pump
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> Thanks for any info.

Get a short 2X4 and smack the bottom of the tank. If the pump starts, it's
most likely bad. At 160K miles if it's the original pump it's past it time.

Ask about suggestions for a replacement pump.

Al
Chris M - 04 Apr 2006 00:28 GMT
Had to do this on my 90 stepside a year or so ago. Be very careful with the
fuel lines on the sending unit. I ended up having to put in a new sending
unit because one turn of the wrench and they were history. If you plan on
keeping it a while, maybe think about replacing the sending unit too.
I found the best price at www.1aauto.com  . In my case, I opted for pulling
the whole box off. Made everything much easier and also needed the room to
access the cab corners for replacement.

good luck,
Chris

>>   Truck is a 1990 Chevy k1500, 160k miles. I'm getting battery voltage
>> to the grey wire on the fuel pump harness, but no fuel pressure/pump
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> Al
JQ - 08 Apr 2006 22:48 GMT
> Had to do this on my 90 stepside a year or so ago. Be very careful with the
> fuel lines on the sending unit. I ended up having to put in a new sending
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> good luck,
> Chris

I ended up getting a kit from NAPA, new fuel pump/sending
unit/harness/strainer. I have some buddies coming over to help me with
the bed, but I'm not sure how to go about it (I won't see the truck
until tomorrow). I have an LMC catalog that shows an exploded view of
the stepside bed, but I can't figure out if I can remove the bed as a
whole or if it has to come apart separately (aka removing fenders first,
then floor panel, etc.)
 Thanks for any info.
Steve W. - 09 Apr 2006 01:58 GMT
Unplug the wiring and remove the bolts through the mounts and lift the
box off in one piece.
Signature

Steve Williams

> > Had to do this on my 90 stepside a year or so ago. Be very careful with the
> > fuel lines on the sending unit. I ended up having to put in a new sending
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> then floor panel, etc.)
>   Thanks for any info.
Elbert - 09 Apr 2006 14:55 GMT
>> Had to do this on my 90 stepside a year or so ago. Be very careful with the
>> fuel lines on the sending unit. I ended up having to put in a new sending
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>then floor panel, etc.)
>  Thanks for any info.

on my 92 K1500....

removed spare tire, removed trailer hitch, disconnected rear lights
wiring harness, removed screws at gas tank fill and disconnected
gas tank fill ground strap. Good idea to disconnect battery before
you do anything. Then removed the 6 bolts ( I think its 6 ) that hold
the bed down to the frame. You are then ready to lift bed off frame.
You need at least 4 people to move the bed around.  I would suggest
sitting bed on the ground or on some saw horses...  You then have full
access to the gas tank top where you can disconnect the fuel lines and
remove the fuel pump sending unit. Pay careful attention to how the
fuel pump is installed. I just replaced the fuel pump when I did mine,
but looking back on it I should have went on an replaced the entire
assembly.  The fuel pump assembly is secured to the fuel tank by a
type of "lock ring" You move it one way to tighten and the other way
to loosen, you should be able to see this, and it fairly obvious.
Always remember you are working on a gas tank! that contains gas and
be very careful about potential sparks or flame.....
-----------
Elbert
ask@me.com
Chris M - 14 Apr 2006 18:20 GMT
You may also want to consider, cleaning up the frame and putting on a coat
of POR15 while you have access to everything.
Chris

>>> Had to do this on my 90 stepside a year or so ago. Be very careful with
>>> the
[quoted text clipped - 42 lines]
> Elbert
> ask@me.com
JQ - 27 Apr 2006 09:13 GMT
Glad I took the bed off because the fuel lines on the sending unit were
pretty corroded and hard to disconnect. Plus the lock ring was fused to
the pump and wouldn't move independently. After a few hours of
penetrating fluid and tapping, it finally separated. Put the new fuel
pump unit in and it runs great.
 It was 8 bolts to remove the bed, plus removing the fuel filler ground
strap and rear tail light wiring. I took the frame advice and cleaned up
and sprayed the frame/chassis with 3 cans of "underbody coating"...
looks a lot better and hopefully lasts a bit. I'll probably hit the
underside of the doors and fenders soon. Removing the bed was best with
4 people, wasn't exactly heavy but with any less it was akward to move
around.
 Next step is paint job and cab interior restoration. Thanks for the info.
 
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