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Car Forum / Chevrolet / Chevrolet Trucks / October 2006

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Loose Door Latch

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89GMC - 10 Oct 2006 20:18 GMT
Ok, not surprisingly when I got my 89 pickup last year the drivers side
door was loose.  It was sagging so in went some new pins w/ bushings,
sag gone.  Next went to replace the striker bolt since it was notched
pretty good.  When I did so the one I got and what everyone seems to
list is help 38420 which has 1/2" threads.  My old one does not, it has
7/16" threads...  So I had to go back and grab a different one(this
time with the backing plate in hand).  The 1/2" one came with the
thermoplastic bushing on it.  The 7/16" did not.  Now the door really
still does not close right, maybe a lil better than before w/o the sag.
The new striker bolt does not seem to make a difference.

So I got my caliper out and checked the min clearance for the striker
bolt in the latch mechanism.  On the passenger side(works perfectly) it
was about half an inch(give or take).  On the drivers side it's about
.6(looks worn)  I was told that this is the point of the
bushings(plastic ones)  I tried buying the only bushing I could find
but it was for a 1/2" bolt and too big and the door won't shut with it.
I even tried diff size hoses and even electrical tape.  The main prob
with the door now is that it's easy to get it to hit the first
catch(open a crack) but very hard to get it to close all the way and
stay.  And sometimes even when I'm driving it will open back up to the
other catch.  So my questions....

Is there a bushing made for a 7/16 bolt?  Is it even worth it?  Does
anyone else with a truck around the same year know which size bolt they
have?  Very curious that it's always listed wrong.  Both sides of the
truck are the same as well so i don't get that.

Should I just suck it up and buy a new latch?  They're like 60 bucks
from lmc....  If so I would imagine I have to tear the whole door
apart?  I've had it semi apart before to reconnect the lock rods and
muck with the power windows to get it working.....

Thanks,
Ed
Whitelightning - 10 Oct 2006 20:49 GMT
>>  I even tried diff size hoses and even electrical tape.  The main prob
> with the door now is that it's easy to get it to hit the first
> catch(open a crack) but very hard to get it to close all the way and
> stay.  And sometimes even when I'm driving it will open back up to the
> other catch.  So my questions....

Here is what it sounds like to me. The striker is adjusted wrong, move it
slightly to the outside ,
and the weather-stripping is worn.

Whitelightning
89GMC - 11 Oct 2006 14:24 GMT
Whitelightning,

Thanks again man, I had adjusted that thing every which way(i thought)
but never moved it to the outside enough, always figured height was
wrong.  Part of the prob is I think my door is bent, compared to the
other one, this one seems like the top hits too early and the bottom
sticks out.  So I was expecting it to line up perfectly flat.  But when
moving it out a little I found the happy medium where it shuts nice and
only sticks out maybe 1/8" or so.

Anyway thanks again this thing was drivin me nuts, I can't stand
slamming my doors...

> >>  I even tried diff size hoses and even electrical tape.  The main prob
> > with the door now is that it's easy to get it to hit the first
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Whitelightning
Roy - 11 Oct 2006 14:49 GMT
> Whitelightning,
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> other one, this one seems like the top hits too early and the bottom
> sticks out.

Sounds like your is out of adjustment. You should be able to adjust at the
hinge to correct it.

Roy

> So I was expecting it to line up perfectly flat.  But when
> moving it out a little I found the happy medium where it shuts nice and
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>>
>> Whitelightning
89GMC - 12 Oct 2006 12:58 GMT
Roy,

Thanks for the idea, but my hinges are welded, have to get the
replacement hinge kit to do that.  A lil more than I want to get into
for now.

> > Whitelightning,
> >
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
> >>
> >> Whitelightning
Roy - 12 Oct 2006 14:00 GMT
> Roy,
>
> Thanks for the idea, but my hinges are welded, have to get the
> replacement hinge kit to do that.  A lil more than I want to get into
> for now.

Welded to both the door and the body?

Roy
>> > Whitelightning,
>> >
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
>> >>
>> >> Whitelightning
89GMC - 13 Oct 2006 14:52 GMT
Yep, one half welded to the door the other half welded to the body,
only way to get the door off(without cutting/drilling welds) is to take
the pins out.

> > Roy,
> >
[quoted text clipped - 40 lines]
> >> >>
> >> >> Whitelightning
Battleax - 13 Oct 2006 16:54 GMT
> Yep, one half welded to the door the other half welded to the body,
> only way to get the door off(without cutting/drilling welds) is to take
> the pins out.

If the door is sticking out at the bottom place a softwood block at the top
of the door and push the bottom in. A fair bit of force may be needed. This
is the only way to adjust top to bottom
 
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