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Car Forum / Chevrolet / Chevrolet Trucks / November 2006Going Through Alot Of Distributor Caps
My 4.3L S-10 begins to misfire after about two months of a new cap. I replace the cap and rotor. That is all they last before the deterioration of the terminals inside the cap break down to start the missing. Could it be a coil or polarity problem? I would like to stop buying parts in bulk. Thanks for any advice. > My 4.3L S-10 begins to misfire after about two months of a new cap. I > replace the cap and rotor. That is all they last before the > deterioration of the terminals inside the cap break down to start the > missing. Could it be a coil or polarity problem? I would like to stop > buying parts in bulk. Thanks for any advice. 4.3 S-10 has been available for many years, can you be a bit more specific? I would consider replacing the wires and plugs to lower the resistance . Check all ground connections in the system JMHO > My 4.3L S-10 begins to misfire after about two months of a new cap. I > replace the cap and rotor. That is all they last before the deterioration > of the terminals inside the cap break down to start the missing. Could it > be a coil or polarity problem? I would like to stop buying parts in bulk. > Thanks for any advice. I pulled the distributor out of my 93 c1500 4.3 today because the module is suspect. (Won't start hot...and recently shut down hot...re-started cold....then parked.) The inside of the cap and top of distributor area was overloaded with corrosion and aluminum oxide. The cap and rotor had been replaced in Jan 2001 which was only 30K miles ago. The contacts were completely corroded. I'll measure the thickness of the crap tomorrow. The pick up coil measured per spec but was visibly not in good shape...green copper windings, etc. I've got a new pick-up coil, reluctor, etc to rebuild it tomorrow. The original silicon paste was dry as a bone. I suspect everything was running very hot and weak on spark. I didn't buy a new secondary coil...but I will on Monday. The heat and reduced fire would promote oxide on the contacts. I'll bet just re-pasting the module would have brought it back to life...but I'm not running a test lab. This time I went with a blue streak cap and rotor. The cap has copper contacts...I'm hoping that will last longer than the Delco version I put in 2001. >I would consider replacing the wires and plugs to lower the resistance . >Check all ground connections in the system JMHO [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >> be a coil or polarity problem? I would like to stop buying parts in bulk. >> Thanks for any advice. The most perplexing problem I've had with my 89 k5 350, was the module. I've always used Delco, but I hope there is a more heat resistant module made. If you have had better performance from another brand of cap and module, or paste, please let us know. Thanks >I pulled the distributor out of my 93 c1500 4.3 today because the module is >suspect. (Won't start hot...and recently shut down hot...re-started [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] >>> missing. Could it be a coil or polarity problem? I would like to stop >>> buying parts in bulk. Thanks for any advice. I'm going back with a delco module and pick up etc. Made in Singapore which traditionally has been the finer side of SE Asia wrt pc boards, etc. Trying to decide whether or not to replace the secondary coil...even though it tests good with meter. Also trying to decide brand...probably delco. Paste? ....no silicone. I'm going to use real heat transfer paste....although not designed for vehicles. The ceramique version from Arctic Silver fills the biggest void ....which is needed on a not-so-well-finished distributor plate. Also polished it first with my dremel and some polish. Got a mirror finish....niiice. http://www.arcticsilver.com/ceramique.htm PS the module did test as failed at Advance Auto this morning. So once this is all back together...should all be good to go. > The most perplexing problem I've had with my 89 k5 350, was the module. > I've always used Delco, but I hope there is a more heat resistant module [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] >>>> missing. Could it be a coil or polarity problem? I would like to stop >>>> buying parts in bulk. Thanks for any advice. Beware the advance auto test, i had a module test bad a couple months ago, didn't fix/change a thing for the problem i was having ended up being fuel related... just my .02 > I'm going back with a delco module and pick up etc. Made in Singapore which > traditionally has been the finer side of SE Asia wrt pc boards, etc. [quoted text clipped - 49 lines] > >>>> missing. Could it be a coil or polarity problem? I would like to stop > >>>> buying parts in bulk. Thanks for any advice. As far as I know, the little tube of white gunk that comes with ignition modules is indeed heat-transfer grease--the same stuff that's used on CPU cooling fans. For some reason, a lot of folks refer to it as die-electric grease, which is silicon based, and has an entirely different purpose. I bought a tube of heat sink grease at Radio Shack (about the only usable thing that they currently sell). It was cheap and I have plenty left over in case I ever need it. ~jp > I'm going back with a delco module and pick up etc. Made in Singapore which > traditionally has been the finer side of SE Asia wrt pc boards, etc. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > PS the module did test as failed at Advance Auto this morning. So once this > is all back together...should all be good to go. If it was the white paste...likely it is heat transfer paste. None of the shops I checked had it nor were any tubes in the box filled with white paste. If it was the more clear stuff...it is a silicon variant....which, as you say, is a dielectric grease...not specifically a heat transfer paste. It does conduct heat better that stagnant air and cheaper than the good stuff. I bought the ceramique which better fills the large gaps on large-faced CPUs than the arctic silver 5 or arctic silver alumina. The module is a similar service. Plus, ceramique is 100% non-conductive and non-capacitive. It also has a higher steady and peak temperature rating than the other pastes. I too bought a lifetime supply and have added it to my will for my son since he works with circuits more than my daughter. Two funny comments. The Advance guy didn't know what I was talking about then became King when is tried to convince me that I needed dielectric grease...not heat transfer compound. He also noted that the silicone paste was highly conductive and would make every electrical connection better. Also saw a comment on the internet suggesting the silicone grease formed the ground bond between the bottom of the module and the distributor. Where do people get this crap? > As far as I know, the little tube of white gunk that comes with > ignition modules is indeed heat-transfer grease--the same stuff that's [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] >> this >> is all back together...should all be good to go. > If it was the white paste...likely it is heat transfer paste. None of the > shops I checked had it nor were any tubes in the box filled with white [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > Where do people get this crap? You new to the group? I'm not sure if I'm considered an "official" member of the group.....I've been reading this group for a long time. Posted a few times in the late 90s under a different server name. I usually read without posting unless I have a need or am sure of advice to give. For some reason, though....I've been addicted to watching the free entertainment provided by the abominable snojob. Seems quite amusing to me....and no admission fee required. I've also looked at a few of the entertaining threads over in the ford group. Good thing it doesn't snow much here in Hot, Texas. Skimmer >> If it was the white paste...likely it is heat transfer paste. None of the >> shops I checked had it nor were any tubes in the box filled with white [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > > You new to the group? > I'm not sure if I'm considered an "official" member of the group.....I've > been reading this group for a long time. Posted a few times in the late 90s [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Skimmer Looks like you've got it figured out. ;-) Ah yes... The good folks at Pep Boys have also tried to convince me that the clear stuff used to seal the elements out of electrical connections (dielectric grease) is indeed what I need for my ignition module. Actually, I guess it's not for transfering heat, rather, insulating... I like the comment about it forming a grounding bond to the distributor ;-) ~jp > If it was the white paste...likely it is heat transfer paste. None of the > shops I checked had it nor were any tubes in the box filled with white [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > Where do people get this crap? |
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