 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Chevrolet / Chevrolet Trucks / December 200699 blazer transfer case problems
hi i have a 99 s10 blazer but it dosn't have auto 4 wheel drive. the problem is that i cant get the truck to go into 4hi it will go into 4low and 2hi. what can i check to fix the problem? thanks > hi i have a 99 s10 blazer but it dosn't have auto 4 wheel drive. the > problem is that i cant get the truck to go into 4hi it will go into > 4low and 2hi. what can i check to fix the problem? thanks First thing that you will want to do is to see what trouble codes are present. In your case, here's how you do it: DTC Displaying 1.. Turn OFF the ignition for 10 seconds. 2.. Connect PIN 13 on the data link cable (DLC) to a ground. The DLC is located in the cab under the instrument panel on the driver's side. 3.. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. 4.. Observe the transfer case shift control switch select buttons for flashing codes. Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List . Important: If the transfer case shift control switch buttons all blink only once and then stop, no fault codes are stored in the transfer case shift control module. . When one DTC is stored in memory, that code will blink that number of times followed by a 3 second pause and then repeat. . If more than one code is stored, the first code will blink, followed by a 3 second pause and then the second code will blink. . This sequence will continue until PIN 13 on the DLC is no longer grounded. . If the TCCM will not communicate the presence or absence of DTCs, test the above circuits in Self-Test Step 2. If the circuits are complete, then replace the TCCM. Refer to Transfer Case Shift Control Module Replacement . Ian ok i did that and thereare no codes! now what? > > hi i have a 99 s10 blazer but it dosn't have auto 4 wheel drive. the > > problem is that i cant get the truck to go into 4hi it will go into [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > > Ian > ok i did that and thereare no codes! now what? Hmmmm....now you really have problems! I think that the next step would be to see if you have a mechanical problem, ie: you may need to remove the encoder motor and see if you can manually move the t/case into the 4hi position. Ian ======= ======= . > > ok i did that and thereare no codes! now what? . . > Hmmmm....now you really have problems! I think > that the next step would be to see if you have [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Ian ========== ========== or......... Induce a code :: unplug the encoder motor pull codes again post the results a suggestion..... only a suggestion....... in case of a real emergency.......... contact an authorized Dealer Tech.............. cuz..........he's liable to have a part on hand to chunk at it......... :) ~:~ marsh sips his crown royal...wonders how the lights are reacting during mode selection...and during code retrieval~ ~:~ >> ok i did that and thereare no codes! now what? > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >Ian That 4x4 system used on that vehicle can be troublesome. It uses a NVG 233 NP1. NVG stands for New Venture Gear which is the new name for New Proccess so just for referance, a NP233 and NVG233 is the same case. Some styles of Tcases use a electroning clutch inside the Tcase to engage front output and some do not and even my GM manual is not clear about this on this model. I do have wiring diagrams and compontent locations posted in my forum in members only area (I post them by member request) and he is not the first one to have problems with this system by any means. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com ok i made it give me a code and the code was 2. but what dose that mean? > >> ok i did that and thereare no codes! now what? > > [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com ======= ======= > ok i made it give me a code and the code was 2. but what dose that > mean? ======== ======== Preliminary diagnosis indicates further diagnosis is needed...................... please elaborate on............... " I 'made'.......it give me a code" ? i'm lost, confused, disoriented, and do not know which way to go. Did you simply use the code retrieval method Ian posted? or....... Did you do as I said and unplug it to "see" if a code would pop up? any whooooooo i'm off to git that code def for you....... rite after i burn this dooby..........first thangs first. :) ~:~ marsh ~grabs his lighter and hits the AllData button~ ~:~ >> ok i made it give me a code and the code was 2. but what dose that >> mean? The diagnostics that accompany a code 2 on this transfer case will tell you to test four circuits from the shift control module to the encoder motor for the proper voltage, if they pass muster, then you are off to test the encoder signal ground circuit for open or high resistance. In almost every case that I've worked on, a code 2 ends up being an encoder motor failure. Now you can either follow the diagnostics which isn't that hard, or you can try another method that I often use. This is all under the assumption that you simply didn't know how to retrieve the code the first time around and your system always had the code 2 present. Clear the codes using this procedure: Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Clearing The transfer case shift control module is equipped with the ability to store diagnostic information which is useful to a technician in the event of a module, component or wiring failure. DTCs should not be cleared from the transfer case shift control module until these codes have been recorded or servicing the system has lead you to a repair and directed you to perform the "Clearing Flash Codes" operation. The following steps provide an easy way of clearing the flash codes properly. 1.. Turn OFF the ignition. 2.. Remove the 10 amp CTSY LP from the I/P fuse block, and the 20 amp ATC fuse from the underhood fuse block. Important: Replacing the fuse before the specified time may result in not clearing the DTCs. 3.. Wait a minimum of 60 seconds before replacing the fuse. Once the fuse is replaced DTC 1 will be set in the transfer case shift control module. 4.. Cycle the ignition switch from the OFF position to the RUN and back OFF five times in order to clear DTC 1 from the transfer case shift control module memory. 5.. Verify that the DTCs have all been cleared. Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Displaying . Please follow the procedure to the letter! Now see if the system works properly, ie: does the transfer case shift into all the ranges. If it does, you have an intermittantly faulty encoder motor. If you get the code 2 back immediately, then you will need to do the voltage checks and you may find the problem is either wiring or the shift module. I've even encountered a few vehicles where both the encoder motor and shift module are faulty. Ian ===== ===== shiden_kai wrote in message: <<EDITED>> > The diagnostics that accompany a code 2 on this transfer case > will tell you to test four circuits from the shift control module [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > In almost every case that I've worked on, a code 2 ends up > being an encoder motor failure. > I've even encountered a few vehicles where both the encoder > motor and shift module are faulty. > > Ian ======= ======= same here......... a quick method to test the circuit ALL the way TO the encoder motor............ clear the codes as stated....... use a current clamp on a DVOM while activating the motor.......clamp around the ENTIRE harness rite at the encoder motor. if the signal is getting "to" the motor........ you've just eliminated EVERYTHING upstream of the encoder motor. :) ~:~ marsh ~sips his crown n coke.......and watch's his meter for current ramping~ ~:~ the code was stored in the computer and when i got the code it blinked 2 times and repeated. > ======= > ======= [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > ~grabs his lighter and hits the AllData button~ > ~:~ ======= ======= > the code was stored in the computer and when i got the code it blinked > 2 times and repeated. ======= ======= Then you've been given your options fairly clearly, and by Ian, whom you can bet on being balls-on accurate. Check the circuits, or replace the motor, or make sure the unit will go in 4wd Hi manually. (which is a pain in the a.s in my opinion) (and most likely NOT the problem) re-read your thread, decide if you want to diagnose or take a gamble on the most likely culprit. I personally would slap a motor on it..... but....... It's your money, not mine.....and.....I could always stick it back on the shelf. GL....... and let us know. ~:~ Marsh ~tranny tech~ ~:~ ========= ========= > ok i made it give me a code and the code was 2. but what dose that > mean? ======== ======== Code 2 definition :: Transfer case encoder motor fault this is according to AllData....... verified through TrNi online. (still wondering if you "induced the code"...or not) anywhoooooooo.......... waiting on yer response to the previous q's........ and remember.....when money is not an object of concern......... we always got that "chunk a part on it" option..................................... :) ~:~ MarshMonster ~sips his coffee.......wonders if yer perplexed yet....and if you have the patients to take all the diagnostice steps neccessary BEFORE..... starting to chunk parts at the symptom~ Hi Marsh and Ian: I haven't been on in a while, but would appreciate an answer to this question. What is triNi online? Thank you kindly, Julio > ========= > ========= [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > patients to take all the diagnostice steps neccessary BEFORE..... > starting to chunk parts at the symptom~ ======== ======== > Hi Marsh and Ian: > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Julio ======= ======= howdy King....... ain't been on in a while myself......... here....... http://www.transbuilder.com good to see you again.... ~:~ marsh ~pours a coffee for king~ ~:~ Thanks for the info Marsh! Great to see you, now tear some new a-holes on these lamers. Julio > ======== > ======== [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > ~pours a coffee for king~ > ~:~ how do i getitto go by hand? i dont know that trick? and if it does goin at that time is the motor bad? > Thanks for the info Marsh! > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > > ~pours a coffee for king~ > > ~:~ > Thanks for the info Marsh! > > Great to see you, now tear some new a-holes on these lamers. > > Julio Julio I lost your e mail address 2 computers ago! if you still have my non-public e mail addy, drop me a line. Charles Charles! Long time no see... How ya been? ~jp > > Thanks for the info Marsh! > > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > non-public e mail addy, drop me a line. > Charles > Charles! Long time no see... How ya been? > > ~jp Jon A roller coaster of good and bad. Had a slight problem with my now former G/F that lead to me being impounded, as well as my vehicle. Which cost me a whole lot of green backs. Work picked up after I got that mess taken care of. Then my computer quit, bad hard drive. Slapped together another one to get me threw, it died the weekend my new Dell arrived. Bought another Ford Ranger this summer, and managed to kill it by august. Broke the frame, yet had fun doing it. kept the dana 35 solid front axle and the 38's for my other ranger. Bought a Diesel 85 Suburban with 35's on it to trail ride in. (both can been see in my yahoo profile). So how goes your blazer? Charles Dude... that's TERRIBLE. I feel for you. Last time we spoke, you we thinking of moving to Knoxville. I'm guessing that didn't happen. My Blazer... Well, I had to replace the tranny after the wiring-harness was replaced. Or so the shop said... I broke off the bolt holding in the tv-cable and the tranny shop said the case crumbled when they dropped it and tried to drill it out. So a $750 rebuild ended up costing me $1500. They installed a non-electronic lockup of some sort, some kit they bought for it, because I was missing the harness that controlled the e-lockup. I'm still not sure whether it properly locks up or not. It was overheating a lot, after rebuilding the tranny, although I can't imagine the two are linked. Could've been the severely advanced timing I was running to try to make it run worth a damn. In the end I finally was forced to learn enough to realize that the low vacuum at idle, the rich running condition, and complete lack of low-end torque was all the fault of one component--the cam. So I'll either have to pay hundreds for someone to swap it or learn to do it myself... Oh yeah...the rebuilt rear axle decided to un-rebuild itself. Actually, it leaked all it's fluid out of the pinion seal and now it's stranded in TN. I haven't driven it in months. It's now in permanent project status, although I'm really missing it. I need to have it running and reliable by October, as I'm planning my roadtrip / vacation to Arizona for then. I'll need it for some places I'll be going. So the short-term list of parts is a new cam for low-end torque. I could care less about "HP"--it's completely irrelevant in my situation. Probably a TBI setup. And then I once again need a rear axle. So I'm once again looking for a 14-bolt to replace the 10-bolt. I'll re-gear the front 10-bolt and swap on some 8-lug hubs. Oh, I was told there's metal shavings in my transfer case... it's never ending, I tell ya... The long-term list stuff I want to do to it is long, and subject to change as I do more research. For now I just want it back on the road! On the upside, the body is still rust-free ;-) In the meantime I bought a used Saab. Nice car. But not knowing the laws in GA allowed me to buy a car that hadn't first passed inspection--a BIG no-no. The dealer who sold it broke the law by selling it in the first place, so I'm trying to get that resolved (he should buy the car back). I may end up suing. :-( I totally dig that Sub... that's a pretty wicked paint scheme you got on there. Got any good axles lying around for sale?? :-) ~jp > Jon > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > So how goes your blazer? > Charles > Dude... that's TERRIBLE. I feel for you. Last time we spoke, you we > thinking of moving to Knoxville. I'm guessing that didn't happen. [quoted text clipped - 46 lines] > > ~jp Knoxville is still in the plans, but off in the distance for now. I think I have a 14 bolt Semi floater under a 89 C-2500. I know a guy that should have one or two Full Floaters laying around. What gear ratio are you looking for? Maybe I should just find you a one ton with a 205 transfer case, and a rotted out body/frame? The Suburban is like a old go-go dancer. She looks nice in the pics, and even from 20 feet away. But pop the hood and you see the nightmare with it. The body on it is too far gone to try to save. The left rear door is welded to the quarter panel, the tail gate is only latched glass busted, the hinges rusted off, the rear wheel wells are flexible. Yet is was cheep, and a diesel. Not to mention there's a extra suburban body at the shop that's usable. And it did come with a cheep o body lift laying in the back seat. So after I get it to start reliably I'm going to drive it some this winter, and take it to a few wheeling places. If it survives till fall, with out losing body parts, ill do the swap latter rather then sooner. Yet I do have some 1/4 tread left 40x17x16.5 (read bald) ground hogs laying around. Charles They aint Dents, their trail trophies. Well, whenever you can get there, it'll be waiting. I keep telling myself that too ;-) although lately I've been looking toward the West. the reality is that I'm probably stuck in Atlanta for the long haul. At least for the foreseeable future. I'm looking for a full-floater. If you have the means to transport on a future trip to Knoxville I could meet you and pick it up. If not, I'll figure something out else. I'm waiting to see how this whole thing with my Saab pans out, and the ultimate goal is to get the dealer to buy it back. It's a problem I don't need, and the Chevy dealer has already approved me for an '07 Silverado 1/2-ton short cab/short bed. Once I get that I've have the means to haul K5 parts :-) Gear ratio... Hmm... Well, I have a 3.73 now but a 4.10 could work fine. I'm planning a mild lift, maybe 3-4" and will probably move up from the 31" tires I have to either 33" or 35" tires. I liked the 31"/3.73 combo because it put me at about 2000rpm when I was on the interstate averaging 75mph. The 3.08 I used to have was terrible. I think gas mileage probably suffered even at the lower rpm's that I got from them because I had to keep so much foot in the pedal to keep moving. I was thinking the same think about a NP205. There's a 3:1 ratio low range kit available for it now. It's not cheap, but cheaper than getting anything else with that low of a ratio (unless I wanted a Dana 300). Certainly cheaper than an Atlas, but that'd be overkill. And really, I don't do any rock-crawling (yet), so I couldn't imagine need a super-low ratio in the low range. Will it bolt in without mods or will something like a crossmember need to be changed (or changing the length of the driveshafts)?? I figure for now the 10-bolt front end will hold up. Crossover steering would be nice, but again, since I don't do rock-crawling or "extreme" off roading, I don't know if it'd buy me anything (although I hear the street manners and lack of bump-steer with x-over is nicer). Maybe I shouldn't do it in stages, and should just get it over with all at once... As for your Sub... sounds like quite a project. I wish I had the space and tools to do something like that. As it is, doing a cam swap is going to be tough. I've moved into a house since we spoke earlier in the year, but I only have a 1-car carport, not a garage. I have a huge backyard, but that's still no protection from the elements. I'm thinking of getting a 2nd job on the weekends to pay someone else for the K5 upgrades :-( ~jp > Knoxville is still in the plans, but off in the distance for now. > [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > Charles > They aint Dents, their trail trophies. Did you change tires or get one tire or something like that that may chage the tire size ? >> Thanks for the info Marsh! >> [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > non-public e mail addy, drop me a line. > Charles |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.