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Car Forum / Chevrolet / Chevrolet Trucks / October 2007

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2001 silverado 4x4 backing plates

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Larry and a Cat named Dub - 04 Sep 2007 13:36 GMT
I am going to have to replace the cheezy backing plates on the rear axel
they simply rusted away . Has anyone else had to do this and can you give me
some tips. I have a positraction rear end TIA
Shep - 04 Sep 2007 20:59 GMT
Axles must come out so the diff cover must come off and the c clips removed,
check with your aftermarket supplier, they make 2 piece backing plates to
make this simpler, made by Dorman.
>I am going to have to replace the cheezy backing plates on the rear axel
>they simply rusted away . Has anyone else had to do this and can you give
>me some tips. I have a positraction rear end TIA
ajtessier - 04 Sep 2007 23:37 GMT
I have the same problem, if you use the two piece after market can they be
installed without pulling the axles?
Any links to the two piece replacements?

Al
Bottoms Up Divers

> Axles must come out so the diff cover must come off and the c clips
> removed, check with your aftermarket supplier, they make 2 piece backing
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
> =----
Shep - 05 Sep 2007 01:40 GMT
Yes, that is the point of the usage and design to save having to do that.
>I have the same problem, if you use the two piece after market can they be
>installed without pulling the axles?
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
>> =----
Turbo Couch - 27 Oct 2007 17:45 GMT
> I am going to have to replace the cheezy backing plates on the rear axel
> they simply rusted away . Has anyone else had to do this and can you give me
> some tips. I have a positraction rear end TIA

I recently did the same thing. I have a 2002 Z71 Suburban. This has a
locking rear differential. While you are pulling the axels replace the
seals. The whole job took about 2 hours, including replacing the rotors
with new OEM (Better quality than any aftermarket) OEM pads, and
replacing the caliper locating/sliding pins and seals. I'm not sure
about the "positraction" rear you are talking about. The locking rear
diff. is very easy to remove the C clips. My advice is to go to your
local chevy parts counter and ask for an exploded view of the rear. They
have these diagrams available for free. You just need to ask.

Remove the center pin of the spider gear housing by unscrewing the
retaining pin that goes through it. Do not rotate the spider gear
housing once the center pin is out. Push the axle in slightly to expose
the C clip. Sometimes the axle needs to be guided into the opening in
the spider gear housing while pushing. Better to have two people to do
this. The shaft seal wants to push the shaft back out, so it will not
stay by itself. I had to use a magnet to pull the clip out, but again it
was easy. If you have a true positraction, I would expect to find clutch
packs that need to be compressed to get the axles out. I was lucky not
to have these. One of the mechanics at Sun Chevrolet, Bohemia, NY told
me about this, so I have no direct exp. with these. Locking rear diff.
has a govenor that spins, and when it spins fast enough (one wheel
spinning faster that the other) it solidly locks the axles together.

Hope this helps.
SnoMan - 27 Oct 2007 19:34 GMT
>> I am going to have to replace the cheezy backing plates on the rear axel
>> they simply rusted away . Has anyone else had to do this and can you give me
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>
>Hope this helps.

You might prime and paint the new backing plates with a rust
preventive paint too as it will extend their service life.  Left bare
they will not last long in salt.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Repairman - 28 Oct 2007 00:38 GMT
Snipped>>>>>>>

Clean and paint the diff. cover too while you have it off.
My '99 Yukon's dif. cover rusted through, smelled lube and thought a seal
was leaking but it had a pin hole in it from corrosion.
Dealer had the cover in stock so you know it's a common NY salt thing.
 
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