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Car Forum / Chevrolet / Chevrolet Trucks / September 20072002 GMC SONOMA 4x4 REAR DIFF.
Hey Yall, So I have a rear diff. seal leak on my 2002 4x4 Sonoma and I plan on taking it apart to drain the oil and replace the seal. I haven't replaced one before so I'm lookin for a little guidence. Anyone who knows trucks help me out. >Hey Yall, > So I have a rear diff. seal leak on my 2002 4x4 Sonoma and I plan >on taking it apart to drain the oil and replace the seal. I haven't >replaced one before so I'm lookin for a little guidence. Anyone who >knows trucks help me out. Are you talking about cover seal?? If so try snugging the bolts up a bit. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com > >Hey Yall, > > So I have a rear diff. seal leak on my 2002 4x4 Sonoma and I plan [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com Yeah the cover seal, I assume it's pretty easy...drain it unbolt it scrape the old seal off and spread on a new one then refill the oil once that's set. I just don't wanna get started and run into something I wasn't expectin. >> >Hey Yall, >> > So I have a rear diff. seal leak on my 2002 4x4 Sonoma and I plan [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >once that's set. I just don't wanna get started and run into something >I wasn't expectin. Everything is pretty straightforward. I would add that both surfaces should be cleaned with acetone until no oil remains, not even oil from your hand. I recommend Permatex Black -without- a gasket (some gaskets will block the oil passages to the axles -- those two big holes beside the bearing caps, you'll see them when you pull off the cover). Follow the Permatex directions -exactly-, let it fully cure, and -then- put the oil back in. Do it this way and you won't have to re-do it later. >Everything is pretty straightforward. I would add that both surfaces >should be cleaned with acetone until no oil remains, not even oil from [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >the Permatex directions -exactly-, let it fully cure, and -then- put >the oil back in. Do it this way and you won't have to re-do it later. If you want to go gasket replacement with RTV only, you really want on surface to be a bit oily (diff) and the dry surface (cover) has the RTV applied to it. Let RTV skin over a bit them install cover finger tight and let sit overnight and then snug it up next day and fill with oil. If you clean both side and use RTV, you will have a hard time removing cover in future because it will kinda be glued on. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com >>Everything is pretty straightforward. I would add that both surfaces >>should be cleaned with acetone until no oil remains, not even oil from [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >----------------- >TheSnoMan.com yeah? If you do it your way(leaving oil on the surface)it'll surely leak. To remove a cover sealed with RTV only, remove all the bolts, and tap the cover sideways. The RTV has a low sheer strength(that's resistance to sideways movement)and will release easily by tapping sideways. -- Old Crow "Yol Bolson!" '82 FLTC-P "Miss Pearl" '95 YJ Rio Grande BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, MAMBM  SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >yeah? If you do it your way(leaving oil on the surface)it'll surely >leak. To remove a cover sealed with RTV only, remove all the bolts, >and tap the cover sideways. The RTV has a low sheer strength(that's >resistance to sideways movement)and will release easily by tapping >sideways. >-- Never had one leak my way. Works every time. Part of the trick is to tighten it only finger tight at first then snug after cure. (a big mistake some make is snugging it down before it cures fully when it is replacing gasket) Also shear strength is not that low and if you glue both sides it will be hard to remove and on surface is not lightly wetted with oil. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com >>yeah? If you do it your way(leaving oil on the surface)it'll surely >>leak. To remove a cover sealed with RTV only, remove all the bolts, [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >both sides it will be hard to remove and on surface is not lightly >wetted with oil. The reason I clean both surfaces is because I was taught to do it that way by a GM tech, who also taught me that oily surfaces are the #1 reason why gasket sealers fail. If your's didn't then you didn't keep it very long, or didn't drive it hot much..... or maybe you were just plain lucky. I don't know. But I -do- know that I've never had a leak, and never had a problem getting the cover off after doing it the way I was taught. >The reason I clean both surfaces is because I was taught to do it that >way by a GM tech, who also taught me that oily surfaces are the #1 [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >and never had a problem getting the cover off after doing it the way I >was taught. I the old days when you used old style permatex which was a sealant based on petrolem (it was used as a solvent or vehicle in them) this was true but today with RTV which is not soluble in pretol based products you want a light film or residue on on surface to prevent the RRV from clinging to it tightly. It will seal if you do it like I said. People make the mistake of tightening it before it cures and squezing sealant out when being used as a gasket replacement. When you let it cures finger tight it forms a new gasket the you snug up after it cures and the result is a good seal. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com >>The reason I clean both surfaces is because I was taught to do it that >>way by a GM tech, who also taught me that oily surfaces are the #1 [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >products you want a light film or residue on on surface to prevent the >RRV from clinging to it tightly. Say what? I don't know where you get your information about Permatex changing from a petro to a non-petro solvent but it's wrong. The stuff has been around a long time (probably longer than me) and has always had a base solvent that was an aromatic hydrocarbon, usually toluene. > It will seal if you do it like I >said. People make the mistake of tightening it before it cures and >squezing sealant out when being used as a gasket replacement. When you >let it cures finger tight it forms a new gasket the you snug up after >it cures and the result is a good seal. NEVER torque or "snug up" an RTV sealant after it cures. That's a sure way to CREATE a leak where none existed before. If you follow the directions on the package, as I stated before, you won't have any problems. The directions for Permatex Black says -not- to torque (snug) the bolts after the sealant cures. If you need a sealer in an application where you -need- to torque the bolts, like on transfer cases and such, the best stuff is Loctite 514 and torque the bolts -before- the sealant cures. But you still need clean, oil-free surfaces. >>>The reason I clean both surfaces is because I was taught to do it that >>>way by a GM tech, who also taught me that oily surfaces are the #1 [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] >around a long time (probably longer than me) and has always had a base >solvent that was an aromatic hydrocarbon, usually toluene. I do not use that stuff anymore nor di i recommand it. Black RTV also sold under Pematex brand is the way to go today. Old stuff is history >> It will seal if you do it like I >>said. People make the mistake of tightening it before it cures and [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >NEVER torque or "snug up" an RTV sealant after it cures. That's a sure >way to CREATE a leak where none existed before. You need to draw it just a bit with finger on bolts to distibute sealant evenly but not tight enough to squeeze it out. >If you follow the directions on the package, as I stated before, you >won't have any problems. The directions for Permatex Black says -not- [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >bolts -before- the sealant cures. But you still need clean, oil-free >surfaces. There is a good bit of difference between snugging them down on bit with fingers and torquing them with a wrench ----------------- TheSnoMan.com <snip argumentative back-pedalling> Just follow the directions. The directions on the tube say that the "surfaces (plural) must be clean and dry". You don't work on my truck, so if -you- want to use it on an oily surface then by all means do so. Myself, I would rather do it the right way. On Sep 24, 4:06 pm, Frank Gilliland <w?renut@NOSPAM?cehouse.net> wrote: > <snip argumentative back-pedalling> > > Just follow the directions. The directions on the tube say that the > "surfaces (plural) must be clean and dry". You don't work on my truck, > so if -you- want to use it on an oily surface then by all means do so. > Myself, I would rather do it the right way. Though I am not as old (age wise) as some in here, I can say that I can never recall one time, using any form of RTV or sealant regardless of intended use or design that does not instruct the user to ensure that BOTH surfaces be clean, oil/grease free and dry. I don't understand why anyone (except maybe one that will remain nameless) would go through the process of repairing something only to finish the last part of it half assed and take the risk of a premature failure due to a piss poor seal. >On Sep 24, 4:06 pm, Frank Gilliland <wïrenut@NOSPAMïcehouse.net> >wrote: [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] >finish the last part of it half assed and take the risk of a premature >failure due to a piss poor seal. Some people (who will remain nameless) are nothing more than magazine mechanics who will say anything, right or wrong, that gives them a feeling of self-importantance. It's also possible that he's working for GM sales division, trying to trick us into destroying our old clunkers so we have to buy brand new clunkers. Either way, anyone who recommends leaving a film of oil on a surface that is to be sealed against oil leaks has absolutely no credibility with me. On Sep 24, 6:45 pm, Frank Gilliland <w?renut@NOSPAM?cehouse.net> wrote: > >On Sep 24, 4:06 pm, Frank Gilliland <w?renut@NOSPAM?cehouse.net> > >wrote: [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > - Show quoted text - How about some one that tells a poster to trade in a perfectly good truck (all be it a dodge) because of a 30 dollar sensor being bad? The same nameless person did just that. This same nameless person has no credibility in numerous groups, so you are not alone Frank. >>>yeah? If you do it your way(leaving oil on the surface)it'll surely >>>leak. To remove a cover sealed with RTV only, remove all the bolts, [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] >and never had a problem getting the cover off after doing it the way I >was taught. As a GM tech for 18 years I thank you. SM just doesn't know what he's talking about. -- Old Crow "Yol Bolson!" '82 FLTC-P "Miss Pearl" '95 YJ Rio Grande BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, MAMBM SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >As a GM tech for 18 years I thank you. SM just doesn't know what he's >talking about. I will tell you what, I have seen some GM techs that are clueless too and had a few of them work on my truck under warranty too. Most GM techs do not give much thought to maybe having to repair same thing again as they just want to do it as quickly as possible and get paid. You can do it to "dumb" or "tech" glue it on method or take time to do it correctly and be able to get it apart without a hammer and a screwdriver or a prybar and possible damage seal surface in process. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com >>As a GM tech for 18 years I thank you. SM just doesn't know what he's >>talking about. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > it correctly and be able to get it apart without a hammer and a > screwdriver or a prybar and possible damage seal surface in process. I've never come into contact with one that wasn't only a parts changer. > >>As a GM tech for 18 years I thank you. SM just doesn't know what he's > >>talking about. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > I've never come into contact with one that wasn't > only a parts changer. You know lots of good ways to repair cars that doesn't require changing parts? Like for example, how would you deal with a burned out tail lamp without changing a part? What about a leaking water pump? How about the infamous V-6 and V-8 intake gaskets that leak? Or the Buick 3800 upper plenum EGR burn thru? You talk pretty stupid. Oh, wait, you think an early 90s GM pick-up truck AC system has a sight glass... > In article <c6412$46f7ed91$49e5dea$15...@DIALUPUSA.NET>, > [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > - Show quoted text - I have to ask, if a problem can be resolved with out changing out parts, can you suggest a way to fix the bad lower ball joints on my 200k miliage Z-71? > > I've never come into contact with one that wasn't > > only a parts changer. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Like for example, how would you deal with a burned out tail lamp > without changing a part? One perfectly placed Fonzie-esque tap on the offending light housing. > What about a leaking water pump? Fill the weephole with black RTV, just like the Snomang would. > How about the infamous V-6 and V-8 intake gaskets that leak? Well, I've never heard of this issue so it must not be infamous, but it sounds like tighter manifold bolts would cure that in a jiffy. > Or the Buick 3800 upper plenum EGR burn thru? JB Weld. I'd swear that Sno and nonsense were the same except that nonsense has proven the ability to spell and punctuate. They both redirect to the left and reverse whenever bouncing off of facts and/or logic, much like a $9.99 battery powered toy car from the 80's. (Batteries not included) I don't know about you Neil, but I like to cure my sealer before final torque so that all the bolt holes distort in the stamped metal pan/ plate. Hey, ever seen a pan come in like that before? Must'a been a pro that did that work. This hasn't been mentioned here, but I also recommend squirting on the sealer without the nozzle in place. A good 3/8" bead will beat the so-called proper amount any old day. Toyota MDT in MO >>>I've never come into contact with one that wasn't >>>only a parts changer. [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > > Toyota MDT in MO Seems you fellows have a reading and comprehension problem. Look at my sentence cited the the first line of text. Now take notice of the word "only" which is the operative limiting concept. You whiners are ONLY parts changers because, among other things, your reading and (especially) comprehension skills fall short of what's demanded in order to be something more. > Seems you fellows have a reading and comprehension problem. Nope, don't think so. > Look at my sentence cited the the first line of text. Now > take notice of the word "only" which is the operative > limiting concept. Any use of the term "parts changer" carries derogatory connotation no matter how you surround it. > You whiners are ONLY parts changers because, Gee, looks like I got it right after all. > among other > things, your reading and (especially) comprehension skills > fall short of what's demanded in order to be something > more. Be something "more" like? > Seems you fellows have a reading and comprehension problem. > Look at my sentence cited the the first line of text. Now > take notice of the word "only" which is the operative > limiting concept. This observation could simply be skewed by your inability to properly judge a real mechanic from a parts changer, it could be skewed from a low data sample i.e. one out of one total mechanic you've met was ONLY a parts changer (poor wording structure intentionally left intact), or you could have been dealt a bad hand in the world of chance encounters with mechanics. Whoopty. On a similar note, all GMs suck 'cause I said so. > You whiners are ONLY parts changers because, among other > things, your reading and (especially) comprehension skills > fall short of what's demanded in order to be something > more. I'm proud to be a real diagnostician whose heavily invested in my trade and I'm proud to be 100% honest and forthright in all manners of my profession. That said, I would classify aarcuda as soundly better than me as a diagnostician and equally as honest. This observation requires that I know what I'm talking about; YMMV. Toyota MDT in MO >>Seems you fellows have a reading and comprehension problem. >>Look at my sentence cited the the first line of text. Now >>take notice of the word "only" which is the operative >>limiting concept. > This observation could simply be skewed by your inability to properly > judge a real mechanic from a parts changer, Nope. Please add impaired logic to your resume. I made no observation in the cited sentence above, merely asking you to take notice that "only" is the operative limiting concept. > it could be skewed from a > low data sample i.e. one out of one total mechanic you've met was ONLY > a parts changer (poor wording structure intentionally left intact), You're wrong again. There's "only" one small piece of data involved, the inclusion and usage of the word "only" which has nothing at all to do with the qualifications of any mechanic I've met. > or > you could have been dealt a bad hand in the world of chance encounters > with mechanics. Whoopty. I'm already tired of repeating what I wrote above, so it is included here by reference (if you know what that means, and even if you don't). > On a similar note, all GMs suck 'cause I said so. I agree that all general managers suck. They can only be better or worse than another general manager. They got their job by "climbing over dead bodies" in the first place. >>You whiners are ONLY parts changers because, among other >>things, your reading and (especially) comprehension skills >>fall short of what's demanded in order to be something >>more. > I'm proud to be a real diagnostician whose heavily invested in my > trade and I'm proud to be 100% honest and forthright in all manners of > my profession. You've clearly demonstrated your inability to diagnose something as simple as the written language. That means you have similar difficulties comprehending manuals designed to assist you. > That said, I would classify aarcuda as soundly better > than me as a diagnostician and equally as honest. This observation > requires that I know what I'm talking about; YMMV. It is abundantly clear that you don't know what you're talking about. But please don't let that stop you from blathering. Your honesty, as is your self image, is grossly inflated. Your stating that aarcuda is a better diagnostician ends up being meaningless. Better than almost zero by how much? > You've clearly demonstrated your inability to diagnose > something as simple as the written language. That means > you have similar difficulties comprehending manuals > designed to assist you. Now -that- is impaired logic. On Sep 24, 3:12 pm, aarcuda69062 <nonel...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > nonsense <nonse...@unsettled.com> wrote: > > I've never come into contact with one that wasn't [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > you to take notice that "only" is the operative limiting > concept. I'll needlessly refresh your memory since you are being intentionally thick. Your original statement of interest here was "I've never come into contact with one that wasn't only a parts changer", which was a back-patting reply to your grammar-deficient alter ego Snoman in specific reference to GM mechanics and their tendency to not fix vehicles correctly. Everything I wrote stands, thickster. Many of your past posts have shown that you like to argue as well as give out generic and misleading info. Grand! Do what you want, but you would get through life and usenet much less abrasively if you dropped the "I'm rubber, you're glue" first grade word twister psychology in reaction to valid technical corrections to your "helpful info". You pop up in defense of Snowy the 'tard as often as you reply viley to valid corrections. > > it could be skewed from a > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > it is included here by reference (if you know what that > means, and even if you don't). I've clearly shown a lack of comprehension on all levels. You know that! It can't be denied. This is the strongest straw... nay, hairman in your arsenal. Avoid scrutiny and calls to your BS statement(s) by saying that your debate partner can't "diagnose" the English language. > > On a similar note, all GMs suck 'cause I said so. > > I agree that all general managers suck. They can only be > better or worse than another general manager. They got > their job by "climbing over dead bodies" in the first > place. Many I've encountered leave much to be desired as it relates to the customer, but they were by and large succesful at the things the owner hired them for. Sounds like you are just full of generalizations, but I see your angle and will ignore the true intent of said generalizations. It's really quite likely that I have had much more contact with them (dealership GMs, SMs) than you, fought with them a hell of a lot more than you, and worked gratis in lieu of their support to please a customer -hella- more than you have (zero can't be a divisor regarding real quantities now, can it?), yet my generalization of them (not fully displayed here) has both positive and negative elements. That's a sign of a considered opinion, my feisty friend. > >>You whiners are ONLY parts changers because, among other > >>things, your reading and (especially) comprehension skills [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > you have similar difficulties comprehending manuals > designed to assist you. As previously stated, *clearly*! Noone would dispute that. The A=B therefore C=D conclusion is priceless! I would go as far as to say "ONLY clearly". > > That said, I would classify aarcuda as soundly better > > than me as a diagnostician and equally as honest. This observation [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > blathering. Your honesty, as is your self image, is > grossly inflated. Whoh! Let's stick to clearly, 'kay? Try "It's clearly (clearly doesn't work perfectly here but clearly rocks so much as a word that you gotta use it) that you don't know what you're talking about", then make the following sentence fragment be "Clearly." > Your stating that aarcuda is a better > diagnostician ends up being meaningless. Better than > almost zero by how much? Here are the rules: 0<[diagnostic ability]<1, as we are referring to one theoretical unit. I estimate Aaracuda to be about 0.20 better than me, and would rate him at about 0.95. This attainment curve is highly exponential, so the last 0.25 don't come easy. As I've been (clearly?) served in the street dancing sense by your last post, I'll discontinue direct replies so you can concentrate on becoming either less of a tool or more of yourself. Toyota MDT in MO > On Sep 24, 3:12 pm, aarcuda69062 <nonel...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > specific reference to GM mechanics and their tendency to not fix > vehicles correctly. My statement said what it said, not what you prefer to read into it. > Everything I wrote stands, thickster. Please add impaired logic to your resume as well then. > Many of your past posts have shown that you like to argue as well as > give out generic and misleading info. Projection at work now. Good going. > Grand! Do what you want, but > you would get through life and usenet much less abrasively if you > dropped the "I'm rubber, you're glue" first grade word twister > psychology in reaction to valid technical corrections to your "helpful > info". You pop up in defense of Snowy the 'tard as often as you > reply viley to valid corrections. I've not supported snoman, I've put down others. It seems you are unable to understand that distinction. As far as usenet goes, I've been around these parts since before the great renaming in 1987, so I don't think as supplicant you're able to teach your master in this instance. >> > it could be skewed from a >>>low data sample i.e. one out of one total mechanic you've met was ONLY >>>a parts changer (poor wording structure intentionally left intact), >>You're wrong again. There's "only" one small piece of >>data involved, the inclusion and usage of the word >>"only" which has nothing at all to do with the >>qualifications of any mechanic I've met. >>>or >>>you could have been dealt a bad hand in the world of chance encounters >>>with mechanics. Whoopty. >>I'm already tired of repeating what I wrote above, so >>it is included here by reference (if you know what that >>means, and even if you don't). > I've clearly shown a lack of comprehension on all levels. You know > that! It can't be denied. This is the strongest straw... nay, > hairman in your arsenal. Avoid scrutiny and calls to your BS > statement(s) by saying that your debate partner can't "diagnose" the > English language. Obviously you're unable to parse sentences written for readers with better than a 3rd grade comprehension skills. >> > On a similar note, all GMs suck 'cause I said so. >>I agree that all general managers suck. They can only be >>better or worse than another general manager. They got >>their job by "climbing over dead bodies" in the first >>place. > Many I've encountered leave much to be desired as it relates to the > customer, but they were by and large succesful at the things the owner > hired them for. That doesn't mean they don't suck, fella. > Sounds like you are just full of generalizations, but > I see your angle and will ignore the true intent of said > generalizations. I'm not so certain you actually understand anything I write. > It's really quite likely that I have had much more > contact with them (dealership GMs, SMs) than you, fought with them a > hell of a lot more than you, and worked gratis in lieu of their > support to please a customer -hella- more than you have (zero can't be > a divisor regarding real quantities now, can it?), Zero was your starting level. You haven't advanced very far. > yet my > generalization of them (not fully displayed here) has both positive > and negative elements. That's a sign of a considered opinion, my > feisty friend. Regardless of elements, in the final analysis they still suck >>>>You whiners are ONLY parts changers because, among other >>>>things, your reading and (especially) comprehension skills >>>>fall short of what's demanded in order to be something >>>>more. >>>I'm proud to be a real diagnostician whose heavily invested in my >>>trade and I'm proud to be 100% honest and forthright in all manners of >>>my profession. >>You've clearly demonstrated your inability to diagnose >>something as simple as the written language. That means >>you have similar difficulties comprehending manuals >>designed to assist you. > As previously stated, *clearly*! Noone would dispute that. The A=B > therefore C=D conclusion is priceless! Are you able to state the reason for your amusement in terms of formal logic, or even using the formal names provided for logical fallacies? If you can, you should. If you cannot, this is another dead end in your attempts to discuss. > I would go as far as to say > "ONLY clearly". Well perhaps you think you've one upped me and you've broken your arm patting yourself on the back without substance to support your contention(s). >>>That said, I would classify aarcuda as soundly better >>>than me as a diagnostician and equally as honest. This observation >>>requires that I know what I'm talking about; YMMV. >>It is abundantly clear that you don't know what you're >>talking about. But please don't let that stop you from >>blathering. Your honesty, as is your self image, is >>grossly inflated. > Whoh! Let's stick to clearly, 'kay? Try "It's clearly (clearly > doesn't work perfectly here but clearly rocks so much as a word that > you gotta use it) that you don't know what you're talking about", then > make the following sentence fragment be "Clearly." Sentence fragments, when used judiciously and creatively, are an acceptable format for transmitting information. >>Your stating that aarcuda is a better >>diagnostician ends up being meaningless. Better than >>almost zero by how much? > Here are the rules: 0<[diagnostic ability]<1, as we are referring to > one theoretical unit. I estimate Aaracuda to be about 0.20 better > than me, and would rate him at about 0.95. This attainment curve is > highly exponential, so the last 0.25 don't come easy. An exponential curve with a limit of 1 might as well be linear. Scale is, after all, important. > As I've been (clearly?) served in the street dancing sense by your > last post, I'll discontinue direct replies so you can concentrate on > becoming either less of a tool or more of yourself. I never needed your permission for anything before this, nor is it of any consequence now. You're improving the caliber of discussion with this dialog, and I hope you continue to improve with age and time because there's always room for improvement. <snip self aggrandizing clap-trap> > there's always room for improvement. As you've demonstrated repeatedly. In article <1190742679.170484.167230@g4g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>, > > You know lots of good ways to repair cars that doesn't require > > changing parts? > > Like for example, how would you deal with a burned out tail lamp > > without changing a part? > > One perfectly placed Fonzie-esque tap on the offending light housing. Duzat work on headlamps also because I (may have) wasted an H-7 on a Mercedes this morning... > > What about a leaking water pump? > > Fill the weephole with black RTV, just like the Snomang would. I figured him for the self drilling pole barn screw type... > > How about the infamous V-6 and V-8 intake gaskets that leak? > > Well, I've never heard of this issue so it must not be infamous, but > it sounds like tighter manifold bolts would cure that in a jiffy. Drill and tap to 12 millimeter? > > Or the Buick 3800 upper plenum EGR burn thru? > > JB Weld. Damn, all I have is Pig Putty. > I'd swear that Sno and nonsense were the same except that nonsense has > proven the ability to spell and punctuate. They both redirect to the > left and reverse whenever bouncing off of facts and/or logic, much > like a $9.99 battery powered toy car from the 80's. (Batteries not > included) Some assembly required. > I don't know about you Neil, but I like to cure my sealer before final > torque so that all the bolt holes distort in the stamped metal pan/ > plate. Hey, ever seen a pan come in like that before? Is a frogs a.s waterproof? > Must'a been a > pro that did that work. This hasn't been mentioned here, but I also > recommend squirting on the sealer without the nozzle in place. A good > 3/8" bead will beat the so-called proper amount any old day. Mores' Law; if more is good, too much is just right. (that guy used to work in the next bay) > Toyota MDT in MO > In article > <1190742679.170484.167...@g4g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>, > > > What about a leaking water pump? > > > Fill the weephole with black RTV, just like the Snomang would. > > I figured him for the self drilling pole barn screw type... I dunno, he really likes the "modern" black RTV. If he did have a DIY pole barn, I would suspect that it was short a few screws though. > > > How about the infamous V-6 and V-8 intake gaskets that leak? > > > Well, I've never heard of this issue so it must not be infamous, but > > it sounds like tighter manifold bolts would cure that in a jiffy. > > Drill and tap to 12 millimeter? I would prefer to change to SAE thread at this point (because I'm Snomang). Make the holes 7/16-14, then red loctite eight studs into place in the engine. Now drill out the manifold holes and drop it into place over the studs.... er, umm... OK, REALLY drill out those manifold holes until it will drop over the studs. Finish torque nuts sans washers with your 3/4" impact, assuming you can find it after using it to run down a pinion gear crush collar on your last diff job. > > I don't know about you Neil, but I like to cure my sealer before final > > torque so that all the bolt holes distort in the stamped metal pan/ > > plate. Hey, ever seen a pan come in like that before? > > Is a frogs a.s waterproof? I'll get back to you after some preliminary testing and research. > > Must'a been a > > pro that did that work. This hasn't been mentioned here, but I also [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > if more is good, too much is just right. > (that guy used to work in the next bay) That's the law! Toyota MDT in MO In article <1190818683.236396.181540@57g2000hsv.googlegroups.com>, > > I figured him for the self drilling pole barn screw type... > > I dunno, he really likes the "modern" black RTV. If he did have a DIY > pole barn, I would suspect that it was short a few screws though. That isn't all that's short a few screws... > > > > How about the infamous V-6 and V-8 intake gaskets that leak? > > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > sans washers with your 3/4" impact, assuming you can find it after > using it to run down a pinion gear crush collar on your last diff job. Don't forget the sledge hammer in lieu of a case spreader. > > > I don't know about you Neil, but I like to cure my sealer before final > > > torque so that all the bolt holes distort in the stamped metal pan/ [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > I'll get back to you after some preliminary testing and research. If they weren't, they'd sink! > > > Must'a been a > > > pro that did that work. This hasn't been mentioned here, but I also [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > That's the law! And Snoman is the Sheriff. > > > Is a frogs a.s waterproof? > > > I'll get back to you after some preliminary testing and research. > > If they weren't, they'd sink! Awww, I just saw a tiny treefrog sticking to my shop's door jamb this morning. Judging from his apparent lack of motivation I assumed he would still be there when I got home tonight. Now the testing is pointless. Speaking of which, I ran down there this morning to grab that FJC vacuum pump I asked you about earler. It's turned out to be a good performer so far. My dealer's pump in their 134 R/R/R unit is going out and is scheduled for service. I got the 4.0 cfm unit as the 5.0 went off sale a moment before "pulling the trigger". They seem identical in dimention and specs other than the 4.0/5.0. I'm assuming the vane shaft is slightly more offset on the 5.0 model. If it gets any hotter than the one I've got it would probably burst into flame. Maybe the 4.0 wasn't such a bad pick... Which leads to this question... if I was to price shop for a micron gauge, are there any pitfalls or particular units to stay away from? I sound cheap but I really would like to spend $150ish. Tool $$ is tight after a MT, OEM CAN VIM, OEM cart, new cabling and new Solus this year. BTW, what's the emoticon for bent over? JK, they were sound purchases for the now and the future. > And Snoman is the Sheriff. Rosco P. Coltrane or Hildy Granger? Toyota MDT in MO In article <1190854435.703845.118400@22g2000hsm.googlegroups.com>, > > If they weren't, they'd sink! > > Awww, I just saw a tiny treefrog sticking to my shop's door jamb this > morning. Judging from his apparent lack of motivation I assumed he > would still be there when I got home tonight. Now the testing is > pointless. All is not lost... there are still a few frogs in the river by me. > Speaking of which, I ran down there this morning to grab that FJC > vacuum pump I asked you about earler. It's turned out to be a good [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > any hotter than the one I've got it would probably burst into flame. > Maybe the 4.0 wasn't such a bad pick... Good to hear the the FJC is working well. I still lust after a Inficon Shark but I'll get the FJC when the time comes when the one in my White charging station goes Tango Uniform. > Which leads to this question... if I was to price shop for a micron > gauge, are there any pitfalls or particular units to stay away from? > I sound cheap but I really would like to spend $150ish. How about $145ish? http://www.omega.com/pptst/DVG-64.html This is the one I have. Great battery life, very accurate and comes highly recommended by a certain Ferrell type dude who does nothing but AC. Be sure to remove it before charging. > Tool $$ is > tight after a MT, OEM CAN VIM, OEM cart, new cabling and new Solus > this year. BTW, what's the emoticon for bent over? JK, they were > sound purchases for the now and the future. 10-4 that! I'm going to go ape sh.t in the last quarter buying equipment due to the IRS rules on capital depreciation being changed to [us as ESOs] being able to take the write off in one year instead of spread over 5 years. Plus, it's been a good year and funds are there. PDS or IDS... decisions-decisions. > > And Snoman is the Sheriff. > > Rosco P. Coltrane or Hildy Granger? Roscoe Pee Coltrane of course! Sorry to reply late, yesterday was a clusterboink. > > I got the 4.0 cfm unit as the 5.0 > > went off sale a moment before "pulling the trigger". They seem > > identical in dimention and specs other than the 4.0/5.0. Whoops, meant to type dimension. I don't know if the FJC suffers from dementia... maybe the excessive heat is from night sweating. > > Which leads to this question... if I was to price shop for a micron > > gauge, are there any pitfalls or particular units to stay away from? [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > comes highly recommended by a certain Ferrell type dude who does > nothing but AC. Be sure to remove it before charging. Thanks. I'm sure you mentioned that model before once but I couldn't find reference to it in the new, crappier Google archives. > 10-4 that! I'm going to go ape sh.t in the last quarter buying > equipment due to the IRS rules on capital depreciation being > changed to [us as ESOs] being able to take the write off in one > year instead of spread over 5 years. Plus, it's been a good year > and funds are there. > PDS or IDS... decisions-decisions. I'm sure you'll go with the IDS (maybe get the PDS option for the VIM later) since you are satisfied with using a laptop based scanner already. Why lose some of the reflash capability if you don't have to? Toyota MDT in MO > >As a GM tech for 18 years I thank you. SM just doesn't know what he's > >talking about. > > I will tell you what, I have seen some GM techs that are clueless too Clueless would be someone who can't break a RTV sealed differential cover without a hammer, screwdriver, pry bar. For gods sake, whatever you do, don't attempt a transmission service on any FWD Chrysler product built in the last 28 years, you're liable to hurt yourself. > and had a few of them work on my truck under warranty too. Funny that! > Most GM > techs do not give much thought to maybe having to repair same thing > again as they just want to do it as quickly as possible and get paid. You've actually interviewed all the GM techs to be able to make that claim? > You can do it to "dumb" or "tech" glue it on method or take time to do > it correctly Correctly according to the OEM is exactly as he described it. Your method is nothing but a back yard Bubba hack repair. > and be able to get it apart without a hammer and a > screwdriver or a prybar and possible damage seal surface in process. None of which is necessary, except for someone who doesn't know the correct way to break the RTV loose. >>As a GM tech for 18 years I thank you. SM just doesn't know what he's >>talking about. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >----------------- >TheSnoMan.com Glad I never met you IRL. First off, it has always been my desire to do a repair right the first time. If I don't, the second time it's on me, and *that* is unexceptable(not only to the customer, but to my wife who spends my paycheck). I spent a lot of time at colleges and training centers learning the stuff I needed to do the job that way. Know-it-all people like you are the reason I got out of the dealerships, I got tired of using the skills and knowledge I've built over the last 30+ years in this field to chase down squeeks and rattles for yuppie socker moms and repairing sh.t that some back yard hack had buggered up for some unsuspecting owner. At least now I work for people that understand what I've gone through to aqquire my experience and appreciate the job I do on their vehicles. Go ahead and do it your way, I know you will, it's your stuff and I could give a sh.t if it leaks. I'm done with you. If I reply to anymore of your sh.t, I may go 24bit on you, and this group doesn't need that anymore than the Jeep group. -- Old Crow "Yol Bolson!" '82 FLTC-P "Miss Pearl" '95 YJ Rio Grande BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, MAMBM SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com snip > Glad I never met you IRL. First off, it has always been my desire to > do a repair right the first time. If I don't, the second time it's on > me, and *that* is unexceptable(not only to the customer, but to my > wife who spends my paycheck). snip > Know-it-all people like you are the reason I got out of the > dealerships, I got tired of using the skills and knowledge I've built > over the last 30+ years in this field to chase down squeeks and > rattles for yuppie socker moms and repairing sh.t that some back yard > hack had buggered up for some unsuspecting owner. snip While the repairs you're talking about are just as important to the owners as any other, it sounds like you outgrew the dealership environment and the idiots that usually staff the service department. Yuppie soccer dads paid good money for those vehicles and their lifestyle is none of your business. I don't fault anyone for trying to save money on repairs, why do you think they're coming to you in the first place, your good looks? rotflmao With your attitude I'm surprised you are able to earn any money to give to your better half. >snip > [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] >dealership environment and the idiots that usually staff the >service department. No, not at all. I got tired of a 150 mile a day commute. I got tired of getting up at 4 am to leave the house at 5:30 and getting home at 7pm. I got to the point where it was costing over $20 a day just to go to work, and that didn't count eating breakfast or lunch. I found a job 11 miles from the house working on classic cars and street rods. I now spend my days bringing rusted out old hulks back to life. In short, for a gearhead, I've died and gone to heaven. I took a $7/hr pay cut to do this, but my stress level is way down, I've lost 20 lbs from not eating fast food on the way to work and back, and I get to see my house in daylight, even in the winter. Check it out:(and yes, the cursor sucks, but it's the boss's site, and he likes it). http://www.vincesvintage.net/ I'm the guy with my arms crossed in the group shot. >Yuppie soccer dads paid good money for those vehicles and >their lifestyle is none of your business. I don't fault >anyone for trying to save money on repairs, why do you >think they're coming to you in the first place, your good >looks? rotflmao Sorry, I have trouble taking seriously a guy who's only complaint is that two pieces of plastic trim that are rubbing together make a noise that you can't even here with the a/c blower on high. I much prefer working on a vehicle that's leaving a puddle of oil in the driveway, or cutting out going down the road, or even leaking water through the cowling. I *like* getting my hands dirty. >With your attitude I'm surprised you are able to earn any >money to give to your better half. Well, who says I expressed this attitude to the customers? I went to college, darn it, I know better than that<seg>. Besides, my ol' man taught me 50-some years ago that being polite doesn't cost anything, and pays a lot of dividends. I've made a damn good living, actually, and my wife doesn't spend nearly as much as I let on :-) -- Old Crow "Yol Bolson!" '82 FLTC-P "Miss Pearl" '95 YJ Rio Grande BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, MAMBM SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >>>Know-it-all people like you are the reason I got out of the >>>dealerships, snip >>While the repairs you're talking about are just as important >>to the owners as any other, it sounds like you outgrew the >>dealership environment and the idiots that usually staff the >>service department. > No, not at all. I got tired of a 150 mile a day commute. I got tired > of getting up at 4 am to leave the house at 5:30 and getting home at [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > I've lost 20 lbs from not eating fast food on the way to work and > back, and I get to see my house in daylight, even in the winter. Funny how that part of the story changed, eh? > Check it out:(and yes, the cursor sucks, but it's the boss's site, and > he likes it). > http://www.vincesvintage.net/ > > I'm the guy with my arms crossed in the group shot. Good intro to the group, and a lot more reasonable reply than the one before. Don't let your personal arguments with snoman spill over. I've never been a dealer mechanic. My backgrounds are in aerospace engineering and where it comes to mechanical work, I earned my A&P (airframe and powerplant) certification early in my career. Aviation mechanics today is different from what it was then, in the early 1960's. I'm here in the Chevy groups because I own a 2003 Silverado 2500hd. > Funny how that part of the story changed, eh? Or maybe he's just listing additional reasons for leaving the dealership(s). > > Check it out:(and yes, the cursor sucks, but it's the boss's site, and > > he likes it). [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > reply than the one before. Don't let your personal > arguments with snoman spill over. You think it's personal? That's quite contrary to the truth. Any argument with Snoman is purely professional. (because is is so very not) > I've never been a dealer mechanic. Obviously > My backgrounds > are in aerospace engineering "background in" is a phrase frequently used by Snoman. (just an observation) > and where it comes to > mechanical work, I earned my A&P (airframe and > powerplant) certification early in my career. Explains the generalized nature of some of your posts. > Aviation mechanics today is different from what > it was then, in the early 1960's. If you say so. > I'm here in the Chevy groups because I own a 2003 > Silverado 2500hd. So does Snoman! >>>>Know-it-all people like you are the reason I got out of the >>>>dealerships, [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > >Funny how that part of the story changed, eh? The "know it all people" comment was directed at SM. Nothing's changed. I still can't stand people like that, but I run into a lot less of 'em now. >> Check it out:(and yes, the cursor sucks, but it's the boss's site, and >> he likes it). [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >reply than the one before. Don't let your personal >arguments with snoman spill over. SM's on 3 groups that I read, and posts a bunch of hooie on all of 'em. >I've never been a dealer mechanic. My backgrounds >are in aerospace engineering and where it comes to >mechanical work, I earned my A&P (airframe and >powerplant) certification early in my career. >Aviation mechanics today is different from what >it was then, in the early 1960's. It has been my firm belief for years that anybody taking automotive engineering classes should have to spend his summers in a dealership working for warranty rates on the stuff they will be designing when they grow up. I spent 8 years as a crew chief on F-4's back in the 70's. Took the class for my A&P and then never used it. Looking back on what I had planned in the aerospace field, I have no regrets about getting out. >I'm here in the Chevy groups because I own a 2003 >Silverado 2500hd. I"m here on the group because I've been here since '99(was going by "Big Daddy" back in those days)and old habits die hard. Worked in GM dealerships for 18+ years. Always had some sort of Chevy because they were cheap and easily available. Now there's 2 Jeeps and an old F-100 out in the driveway. If I were to buy another Chevy it'd not be a new one(I'm kinda looking for a '62 Impala, actually). Actually, that's misleading...I'd not buy *any* brand of new car. -- Old Crow "Yol Bolson!" '82 FLTC-P "Miss Pearl" '95 YJ Rio Grande BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, MAMBM SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com Um, what seal? > Hey Yall, > So I have a rear diff. seal leak on my 2002 4x4 Sonoma and I plan > on taking it apart to drain the oil and replace the seal. I haven't > replaced one before so I'm lookin for a little guidence. Anyone who > knows trucks help me out. |
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