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Car Forum / Chevrolet / Chevrolet Trucks / April 2008

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window drive motor

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Shelldigger - 21 Apr 2008 22:43 GMT
90 Blazer Full Size. How in the devil do you get the gol dang motor
out?

There is a hole there I can just barley squeeze my arm through, I can
feel the motor down there, just cant figure out how to get the dang
thing out so I can put the new one in. There are 2 nuts up high and 2
bolts down low from the outer part of the door but taking them off
does not seem to loosen the motor in any way. (I have the door panel
off and checked the switch, it is good so Im pretty sure its the
motor) It is still attatched to the gear drive somehow, but I cant
find out where. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. send elves. My arms are to damn big to work through the small
hole provided.
ajeeperman@comcast.net - 22 Apr 2008 05:38 GMT
I have not done it on my chevrolet Tahoe, but on my 1989 ford bronco, i used
a small grinder to grind a larger hole in the metal door panel so i could
simply undo the bolts anf remove the motor through the hole. had to do it
later on both doors and it was easy.
now i can access the motors in minutes.
old john

Hello, Shelldigger!
You wrote  on Mon, 21 Apr 2008 14:43:44 -0700 (PDT):

S> There is a hole there I can just barley squeeze my arm through, I can
S> feel the motor down there, just cant figure out how to get the dang
S> thing out so I can put the new one in. There are 2 nuts up high and 2
S> bolts down low from the outer part of the door but taking them off
S> does not seem to loosen the motor in any way. (I have the door panel
S> off and checked the switch, it is good so Im pretty sure its the
S> motor) It is still attatched to the gear drive somehow, but I cant
S> find out where. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

With best regards, ajeeperman@comcast.net.  E-mail: ajeeperman@comcast.net
Shelldigger - 23 Apr 2008 19:13 GMT
Am I really going to have to take a grinder
to the door and cut out a section to get the old motor out and a new
one in....or is there a little known tip, secret, technique to to do
this? Ill tell you right now the Haynes manual I have is worthless on
many accounts, but especially here. They dedicate 1 paragraph to
power
windows, and none of it explains how or where to do a damn thing.

There is a carpet panel I can pull that is close to the window motor.
I
suppose I can take a grinder and cut the door out so the panel will
cover it
once I get the motor traded out....it just seems ridiculous to have to
do
that though.

On Apr 21, 11:38 pm, <ajeeper...@comcast.net> wrote:
> I have not done it on my chevrolet Tahoe, but on my 1989 ford bronco, i used
> a small grinder to grind a larger hole in the metal door panel so i could
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
> With best regards, ajeeper...@comcast.net.  E-mail: ajeeper...@comcast.net
Steve W. - 23 Apr 2008 21:36 GMT
> Am I really going to have to take a grinder
> to the door and cut out a section to get the old motor out and a new
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> do
> that though.

The motor and lift linkage come out as one piece. You need to pull the
entire inner door panel off. Then the linkage and motor can come out the
bottom access in the door. Under the plastic panel you will find the
dust/water shield that also gets pulled off. (looks like stiff paper
with a bead of sealer around the edge). No need to cut extra holes.

Signature

Steve W.

Shelldigger - 24 Apr 2008 12:47 GMT
> > Am I really going to have to take a grinder
> > to the door and cut out a section to get the old motor out and a new
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

Unfortunately, there is "NO" bottom access! My door is quite solid
save for a couple of small (no way the motor assembly is coming out of
them) holes. The carpet kick panel "looks" like it would hide access,
but solid steel underneath.

So...the entire lift assembly has to be taken out to replace the
motor? Im going to need a big friggin hole!
Lannie Schafroth - 24 Apr 2008 19:36 GMT
I've never seen a access hole like he is describing before.  I know my S10
most certainly does not have one, nor does the Silverado truck.

I think I will have to cut out the metal.

Lannie

On Apr 23, 3:36 pm, "Steve W." <csr684...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Shelldigger wrote:
> > Am I really going to have to take a grinder
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

Unfortunately, there is "NO" bottom access! My door is quite solid
save for a couple of small (no way the motor assembly is coming out of
them) holes. The carpet kick panel "looks" like it would hide access,
but solid steel underneath.

So...the entire lift assembly has to be taken out to replace the
motor? Im going to need a big friggin hole!

** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
Shelldigger - 27 Apr 2008 14:15 GMT
No such luck for me either. Cutting the hole aint so bad, and damn
near impossible job without making a hole in the door. Good news is
only 3 bolts and it drops out, no need to take out entire window lift
assembly.

On Apr 24, 1:36 pm, "Lannie Schafroth" <lannie at ct-iowa dot com>
wrote:
> I've never seen a access hole like he is describing before.  I know my S10
> most certainly does not have one, nor does the Silverado truck.
[quoted text clipped - 44 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -
George - 27 Apr 2008 19:19 GMT
I got into this thread late.  What kind of truck is this?  I have a 99
silverado and it was as simple as removing the 6 little bolts that hold the
regulator in.  Then the regulator folds up and slips right out through the
access panel.  I can't imagine cutting a hole.  Surely they didn't install a
window motor and then spot weld the inner door panel to cover it up.  If you
had gone to a dealer, I don't think they would cut a hole in your door,
either.

> No such luck for me either. Cutting the hole aint so bad, and damn
> near impossible job without making a hole in the door. Good news is
[quoted text clipped - 53 lines]
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
Steve W. - 27 Apr 2008 22:09 GMT
> I got into this thread late.  What kind of truck is this?  I have a 99
> silverado and it was as simple as removing the 6 little bolts that hold the
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> had gone to a dealer, I don't think they would cut a hole in your door,
> either.

I have done a bunch of them both full sized and s series and never cut a
hole. They all have had access holes large enough to remove the window
actuator. Just try telling a customer that you had to cut a hole in the
door panel to work on the regulator.

That is why I said you don't need to cut out anything.

Signature

Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York

Shelldigger - 28 Apr 2008 12:29 GMT
90 Blazer Full size.

...and if there "was" an access hole, Im pretty sure Im not that
scatterbrained to have not found it.
Just aint there. Solid steel save for a couple of small holes, and
neither of them are big enough or close enough to the motor, to help.
After cutting the hole, I realize there is absolutely no way of doing
this job, on this truck, without cutting the hole. Unless you got
elves.

...and I was thinking too, how the hell did a repair shop explain to a
customer they had to cut a hole in the door?
Just did not make sense...bad design, good execution of a bad design.

> > I got into this thread late.  What kind of truck is this?  I have a 99
> > silverado and it was as simple as removing the 6 little bolts that hold the
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> Steve W.
> Near Cooperstown, New York
ajeeperman@comcast.net - 25 Apr 2008 05:04 GMT
As i said twice, grind a hole with a cutout disk an then the motor can be
diconected and dropped right through the hole(about 3" in diameter.
nothing else is required.
old john

Hello, Shelldigger!
You wrote  on Thu, 24 Apr 2008 04:47:39 -0700 (PDT):

S> On Apr 23, 3:36 pm, "Steve W." <csr684...@yahoo.com> wrote:
??>>> Am I really going to have to take a grinder
??>>> to the door and cut out a section to get the old motor out and a new
??>>> one in....or is there a little known tip, secret, technique to to do
??>>> this? Ill tell you right now the Haynes manual I have is worthless on
??>>> many accounts, but especially here. They dedicate 1 paragraph to
??>>> power
??>>> windows, and none of it explains how or where to do a damn thing.
??>>
??>>> There is a carpet panel I can pull that is close to the window motor.
??>>> I
??>>> suppose I can take a grinder and cut the door out so the panel will
??>>> cover it
??>>> once I get the motor traded out....it just seems ridiculous to have
??>>> to do that though.
??>>
??>> The motor and lift linkage come out as one piece. You need to pull the
??>> entire inner door panel off. Then the linkage and motor can come out
??>> the bottom access in the door. Under the plastic panel you will find
??>> the dust/water shield that also gets pulled off. (looks like stiff
??>> paper with a bead of sealer around the edge). No need to cut extra
??>> holes.
??>>
??>> --
??>> Steve W.- Hide quoted text -
??>>
??>> - Show quoted text -

S> Unfortunately, there is "NO" bottom access! My door is quite solid
S> save for a couple of small (no way the motor assembly is coming out of
S> them) holes. The carpet kick panel "looks" like it would hide access,
S> but solid steel underneath.

With best regards, ajeeperman@comcast.net.  E-mail: ajeeperman@comcast.net
Shelldigger - 25 Apr 2008 12:30 GMT
I know, I know, I hear you, just having difficulty getting it through
my thick skull. It just doesnt seem "right" to have to do this....

Will begin grinder operations today.

On Apr 24, 11:04 pm, <ajeeper...@comcast.net> wrote:
> As i said twice, grind a hole with a cutout disk an then the motor can be
> diconected and dropped right through the hole(about 3" in diameter.
[quoted text clipped - 37 lines]
>
> With best regards, ajeeper...@comcast.net.  E-mail: ajeeper...@comcast.net
Shelldigger - 26 Apr 2008 13:01 GMT
Well whadayaknow. After grinding a hole roughly 8.75x3.5 inches in the
door, it was easy as pie.
3 bolts and the motor dropped right out. The replacement wasnt exactly
"bolt on" but was able to sort out what needed doing and get it
mounted.

Tip, if you have to do this, taking the time needed to file down the
hole perimeter, while time consuming and a sweaty job, is well worth
not having you arm sliced to pieces.

Thanks much for the advice guys!

> I know, I know, I hear you, just having difficulty getting it through
> my thick skull. It just doesnt seem "right" to have to do this....
[quoted text clipped - 46 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -
mac davis - 26 Apr 2008 16:35 GMT
>Well whadayaknow. After grinding a hole roughly 8.75x3.5 inches in the
>door, it was easy as pie.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
>Thanks much for the advice guys!

Being lazy, I seem to remember cutting the hole and then putting masking tape on
the edges instead of running the sanding wheel over 'em..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing
Shelldigger - 27 Apr 2008 14:10 GMT
Lol! Theres always a wise guy with a simpler solution. I will slap
myself now...I spent like 20 minutes with a file on that hole, in 80
degree weather.

> >Tip, if you have to do this, taking the time needed to file down the
> >hole perimeter, while time consuming and a sweaty job, is well worth
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Please remove splinters before emailing
ajeeperman@comcast.net - 28 Apr 2008 09:25 GMT
your welcome
old john

Hello, Shelldigger!
You wrote  on Sat, 26 Apr 2008 05:01:52 -0700 (PDT):

S> Tip, if you have to do this, taking the time needed to file down the
S> hole perimeter, while time consuming and a sweaty job, is well worth
S> not having you arm sliced to pieces.

S> Thanks much for the advice guys!

??>> I know, I know, I hear you, just having difficulty getting it through
??>> my thick skull. It just doesnt seem "right" to have to do this....
??>>
??>> Will begin grinder operations today.
??>>
??>> On Apr 24, 11:04 pm, <ajeeper...@comcast.net> wrote:
??>>
??>>> As i said twice, grind a hole with a cutout disk an then the motor
??>>> can be diconected and dropped right through the hole(about 3" in
??>>> diameter. nothing else is required. old john
??>>
??>>> Hello, Shelldigger!
??>>> You wrote  on Thu, 24 Apr 2008 04:47:39 -0700 (PDT):
??>>
 S>>>> On Apr 23, 3:36 pm, "Steve W." <csr684...@yahoo.com> wrote: ??>>
??>>
 ??>>>>>> Am I really going to have to take a grinder
 ??>>>>>> to the door and cut out a section to get the old motor out and a
 ??>>>>>> new one in....or is there a little known tip, secret, technique
 ??>>>>>> to to do this? Ill tell you right now the Haynes manual I have is
 ??>>>>>> worthless on many accounts, but especially here. They dedicate 1
 ??>>>>>> paragraph to power windows, and none of it explains how or where
 ??>>>>>> to do a damn thing.
 ??>>>>>
 ??>>>>>> There is a carpet panel I can pull that is close to the window
 ??>>>>>> motor. I suppose I can take a grinder and cut the door out so the
 ??>>>>>> panel will cover it once I get the motor traded out....it just
 ??>>>>>> seems ridiculous to have to do that though.
 ??>>>>>
 ??>>>>> The motor and lift linkage come out as one piece. You need to pull
 ??>>>>> the entire inner door panel off. Then the linkage and motor can
 ??>>>>> come out the bottom access in the door. Under the plastic panel
 ??>>>>> you will find the dust/water shield that also gets pulled off.
 ??>>>>> (looks like stiff paper with a bead of sealer around the edge). No
 ??>>>>> need to cut extra holes.
 ??>>>>>
 ??>>>>> --
 ??>>>>> Steve W.- Hide quoted text -
 ??>>>>>
 ??>>>>> - Show quoted text -
??>>
 S>>>> Unfortunately, there is "NO" bottom access! My door is quite solid
 S>>>> save for a couple of small (no way the motor assembly is coming out
 S>>>> of them) holes. The carpet kick panel "looks" like it would hide
 S>>>> access, but solid steel underneath.
??>>
??>>> With best regards, ajeeper...@comcast.net.  E-mail:
??>>> ajeeper...@comcast.net- Hide quoted text -
??>>
??>> - Show quoted text -

With best regards, ajeeperman@comcast.net.  E-mail: ajeeperman@comcast.net
 
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