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Car Forum / Chrysler Cars / September 2004

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Shadow 93 Timing Belt replacement. and other issues

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Ghazan Haider - 04 Sep 2004 03:37 GMT
I think I need to replace the timing belt on my car, 146000 km, 2.2L
engine.

Replaced spark plugs, wires, fuel filter etc recently, bought a timing
belt replacement but didnt try because it looks intimidating.

The engine runs great, clutch plate is new and everything is smooth
and responsive, but a tap on the throttle takes an annoying fraction
of a second before the engine races. That delay is obvious when slowly
accelerating on the first gear, the throttle jumps the car forward,
stops, jumps again etc. Doesnt happen when I floor the throttle pedal,
and nor on highway at higher gears. I feel its the timing belt.

Bought the car from someone else, and dont know if the belt was ever
replaced, but the milage was 40,000 or so, and I've put a 100,000 on
it.

I opened the plastic top and the belt looks brand new. I inspected the
space between the teeth, teeth surfaces and wear, cant tell it apart
from the new one I bought. Do I still need to replace it?

Secondly, at idle, the falling side of the belt on the pulley seems to
vibrate, upto 1/2" or more. Is that normal or does it need tightening?
I tried to slip the belt on the gear sideways and it wouldnt budge,
sure seems tight.

The support right next to this gear, seems like the engine mount on
the right side of the car. Is this the only mount on the right side,
will the engine fall if I unscrew it?

While I was figuring this out, an occasional visible smoke comes out
from the back of the head, just a puff, and then nothing. Into the air
housing, the engine spits out oil, and the smaller cube air filter in
there was soggy with oil. My mechanic friends suspect either the head
gasket, or a slightly broken valve, or both. Any idea why the engine
would spit oil from the head to the air housing? I bought a haynes
booklet on the maintenance, but its very unclear on how the engine
runs, and theres no mention on how to say replace a valve.

Help on any of the above questions will be appreciated, especially on
how to replace the timing belt...
Daniel J. Stern - 04 Sep 2004 16:21 GMT
> I think I need to replace the timing belt on my car, 146000 km, 2.2L
> engine.

I think you do, too.

> Bought the car from someone else, and dont know if the belt was ever
> replaced, but the milage was 40,000 or so, and I've put a 100,000 on
> it.

You're overdue.

> at idle, the falling side of the belt on the pulley seems to
> vibrate, upto 1/2" or more. Is that normal or does it need tightening?

It needs replacement.

> The support right next to this gear, seems like the engine mount on
> the right side of the car. Is this the only mount on the right side,

Yep.

> While I was figuring this out, an occasional visible smoke comes out
> from the back of the head, just a puff, and then nothing.

What do you mean by "out from the back of the head"? If it does this with
everything assembled and installed, then you've got an oil leak that's
dripping down onto the exhaust manifold. If it does this with the air
cleaner housing removed and the crankcase ventillation hoses open to the
atmosphere, that's a different matter.

> Into the air housing, the engine spits out oil, and the smaller cube air
> filter in there was soggy with oil. My mechanic friends suspect either
> the head gasket, or a slightly broken valve, or both. Any idea why the
> engine would spit oil from the head to the air housing?

Because the crankcase ventillation system has been neglected and/or the
sheetmetal shield has been left out from under the camshaft cover. Good
for you for disassembling the air cleaner assembly far enough to find the
"smaller cube air filter in there" -- I hope that you replaced the
"smaller cube air filter" element, which is properly known as the
crankcase inlet air filter. You also need to inspect all the crankcase
vent hoses and elbows; they tend to cook and crack with age.

Replace the PCV valve, but use the larger-bore valve available by going to
your Chrysler-Dodge dealer and ordering a P/N 3671-076 (number may
supersede to a newer one). This larger-bore valve better copes with the
higher volume of crankcase gas from an older engine, and the AIS motor
will simply dial back a notch to compensate for the extra air. Note that
the dealer is also the only source for replacement elbows and moulded
hoses. While you're back there, carefully inspect all the hoses
surrounding the throttle body and replace as necessary; they tend to cook
and crack, too.

> I bought a haynes booklet on the maintenance

Throw it away; it's worse than worthless. Full of errors and partial
information. If you're going to work on your own car, you NEED a factory
service manual. They are easy to find used on Ebay, or you can get them
new from the dealer.

DS
 
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