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Car Forum / Chrysler Cars / January 2005Electrical ? 93 3.3
Here's a new problem: Again an intermittent problem. I'll be driving down the road and the speedometer goes to zero and than back up and the trans. goes back into gear (or re-engages). I originally thought it was a trans problem, but I have an old cell phone that is powered up by the ignition key that is still in the car. When it powers up, it beeps. And every time this has happened, the phone would beep. Didn't really connect the two until recently. I don't have a trans problem, I think I loose power for a very short time and that's what shuts everything down and then restarts it. It happens very rarely, and I haven't noticed anything that might cause it, like going over a bump. (thought it might be a loose wire). There are no codes generated. any ideas, thanks, nick cold solder joints or temperature related connector problems, espescially in a car with a few miles/seasons of hot/cold expansion. > Here's a new problem: Again an intermittent problem. I'll be driving down > the road and the speedometer goes to zero and than back up and the trans. [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000 Newsgroups > ---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- I think I know the answer to this already. But is there any way to isolate the problem ? thanks, Nick > cold solder joints or temperature related connector problems, espescially > in [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > Newsgroups >> ---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- Isolating is easy - it just takes like hundreds of hours lol. Best thing to do is locate ALL connectors and inspect for corrosion or poor connection due to loose fit. Then Reconnect and reapply some form of waterproofing for engine compartment leads. Especially at connectors that supply power to more than 1 circuit ie: NOT brake light lead but power and groiund lead commons in and around any computers and dash components. PS, make sure you Dont have 38 keys dangling off of the ignition switch. lol. > I think I know the answer to this already. But is there any way to isolate > the problem ? [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > > Newsgroups > >> ---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- Thanks for the suggestion. While adding windshield washer fluid the other day, I noticed the light in the engine compartment flicker on and off. Wonder what caused that, so after awhile I finally was able to duplicate it. On the negative battery cable, there is a connection that pulls apart. If I put pressure on it a certain way, it lost the connection. I pulled it apart, cleaned it out and added some dielectric grease and put it back together. Don't know if that was it, since it happened so infrequently, but we'll see. thanks again > Isolating is easy - it just takes like hundreds of hours lol. > Best thing to do is locate ALL connectors and inspect for corrosion or [quoted text clipped - 52 lines] >> > Newsgroups >> >> ---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- Thanks for the suggestion. While adding windshield washer fluid the other day, I noticed the light in the engine compartment flicker on and off. Wonder what caused that, so after awhile I finally was able to duplicate it. On the negative battery cable, there is a connection that pulls apart. If I put pressure on it a certain way, it lost the connection. I pulled it apart, cleaned it out and added some dielectric grease and put it back together. Don't know if that was it, since it happened so infrequently, but we'll see. thanks again > Isolating is easy - it just takes like hundreds of hours lol. > Best thing to do is locate ALL connectors and inspect for corrosion or [quoted text clipped - 52 lines] >> > Newsgroups >> >> ---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
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