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Car Forum / Chrysler Cars / January 2005replacing brake lines
I just helped a friend replace her right rear brake steel brake line on her 93 caravan. I tried to get a factory piece from chrysler but they said that I have to bend the lines. So instead of paying the dealership big money for their brake lines I just went to the local auto supply store and picked up a 3/16 thread double flared 30" steel line and installed it. My question is: The line that i bent doesn't bend exactly like the line I took out but does follow the same general path. I made sure I bent the lines in a gentle curving fashion and there aren't any kinks. How do I know that these lines are reliable as the factory ones? My bends are far from being perfect but I think they will do the job. There was a clip holding the old line to the axle but I didn't re-install it on the new line b/c I figured that the steel clip will rub on the steel line thus eventually puncturing the line. The factory line had the clip b/c the old line also had a spring like winding around it to protect it. Also the replacement line has the screw fittings on each end but the two are different lengths of threads. I screwed the longer threads into the rubber line for the rear brakes (it didn't really screw in a whole lot but I didn't see any leaks and the threads were screwed all the way in) and the shorter threaded end into the wheel cylinder. In both instances when the screw in fittings were completed tightened there were threads still exposed on both ends of the line. From what i've said does it sound like I installed these lines correctly? The brakes work just fine and I didn't see any leaks and i even stomped on the brake pedal to make sure it didn't sink to the floor. I don't want my friend to crash her van b/c I made some mistake along the way... thanks > My question is: The line that i bent doesn't bend exactly like the line I > took out but does follow the same general path. So long as it doesn't hit anything and nothing hits it, it will be fine. > being perfect but I think they will do the job. There was a clip holding > the old line to the axle but I didn't re-install it on the new line b/c I > figured that the steel clip will rub on the steel line thus eventually > puncturing the line. The factory line had the clip b/c the old line also > had a spring like winding around it to protect it. I usually paint the brake lines I make and I'll use some vacume hose in place of the factory springs in the critical spots. Been doing it that way for years and never had a problem because of it. > Also the replacement line has the screw fittings on each end but the two are > different lengths of threads. I've bought lines like that, doesn't matter unless one of ends it goes into is particularly deep. My guess is there are some cars out there that need the longer threaded fitting in some spots. > From what i've said does it sound like I installed these lines correctly? Sounds fine. > The brakes work just fine and I didn't see any leaks and i even stomped on > the brake pedal to make sure it didn't sink to the floor. After bleeding I assume. > I just helped a friend replace her right rear brake steel brake line on > her 93 caravan. I tried to get a factory piece from chrysler but they > said that I have to bend the lines. Right. Pre-formed lines are not supplied. > So instead of paying the dealership big money for their brake lines I > just went to the local auto supply store and picked up a 3/16 thread > double flared 30" steel line and installed it. Right, but it sounds like you left off the armor coil on the outside of the line. > My question is: The line that i bent doesn't bend exactly like the line I > took out but does follow the same general path. I made sure I bent the > lines in a gentle curving fashion and there aren't any kinks. Good. > There was a clip holding the old line to the axle but I didn't > re-install it on the new line b/c I figured that the steel clip will rub > on the steel line thus eventually puncturing the line. The factory line > had the clip b/c the old line also had a spring like winding around it > to protect it. It's best to secure the line. If you don't feel you can use the steel clip, use Tie-wraps or something. And yeah, you really do need the armor coiling. > Also the replacement line has the screw fittings on each end but the two > are different lengths of threads. I screwed the longer threads into the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > when the screw in fittings were completed tightened there were threads > still exposed on both ends of the line. That's fine. >> I just helped a friend replace her right rear brake steel brake line on >> her 93 caravan. I tried to get a factory piece from chrysler but they [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > >That's fine. And the armour coiled lines ARE available from the aftermarket. They bend nicer than the plain lines too. Roughly double the price, but they are still pretty cheap. >Right, but it sounds like you left off the armor coil on the outside of >the line. How does one add the armor coil? I would think that would take a lashing machine, or even torching. Do they sell the unformed lines with the armor coil? Thanks. |
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