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Car Forum / Chrysler Cars / February 2005SMEC - Plymouth Voyager
Awhile back, I posted regarding some probelms I was having w/ my 1996 Plymouth Voyager. It was doing poorly upon initial accelaration and when under load (very little power). It was also showing Fault Code 43. Someone suggested it may be a problem with the SMEC. I replaced the ignition coil and the vehicle ran much better. However, the same fault code quickly returned and performance is again poor upon initial accelaration and when under load. So, I'm going to replace the SMEC but had some questions... 1) Is this something I can do or is there some kind of calibration that must be perfromed by a mechanic? 2) Can a bad SMEC damage the coil? 3) Is there anything else I should consider before/while doing this? Thanks! -- Christian > Awhile back, I posted regarding some probelms I was having w/ my 1996 > Plymouth Voyager. It was doing poorly upon initial accelaration and [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > -- Christian Is this a 3.0 or 3.3? If you are going to replace the module it is easy to do and you dont need any special equipment. Normally the coil would damage the module if a plug or wire was arching and left unattended >> Awhile back, I posted regarding some probelms I was having w/ my 1996 >> Plymouth Voyager. It was doing poorly upon initial accelaration and [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] >do and you dont need any special equipment. Normally the coil would damage >the module if a plug or wire was arching and left unattended 2.4L -- the 4 cylinder. I've checked and cleaned the plugs. They all looked good and are fairly new. I did a visual and resistance check on the wires. I didn't see any damage and resistance is within the acceptable range. -- Christian > Awhile back, I posted regarding some probelms I was having w/ my 1996 > Plymouth Voyager. It was doing poorly upon initial accelaration and when > under load (very little power). It was also showing Fault Code 43. > Someone suggested it may be a problem with the SMEC. Your van hasn't got a SMEC, it's got an SBEC. The SBEC is extremely dependable and seldom fails; it is probably NOT causing your problem. And Code 43 doesn't indicate a problem with your SBEC, it indicates a cylinder misfire. > I replaced the ignition coil and the vehicle ran much better. However, > the same fault code quickly returned and performance is again poor > upon initial accelaration and when under load. Probably because you didn't replace the rest of the secondary system *at the same time* (cables, spark plugs and, if applicable, cap and rotor). > So, I'm going to replace the SMEC Waste of money unless/until you have tested it and it is *known* to be bad. > 1) Is this something I can do or is there some kind of calibration > that must be perfromed by a mechanic? No, you can do it, but it almost certainly won't fix your problem. > 2) Can a bad SMEC damage the coil? No. > 3) Is there anything else I should consider before/while doing this? Yes: Test and diagnose, don't just throw parts at the problem. DS >> Awhile back, I posted regarding some probelms I was having w/ my 1996 >> Plymouth Voyager. It was doing poorly upon initial accelaration and when [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >Code 43 doesn't indicate a problem with your SBEC, it indicates a cylinder >misfire. What's the difference between a SMEC and an SBEC? Also, I see that Fault Code 43 can be either a problem with the coil or a cylinder misfire, as you stated. I gather the code indicates one thng for certain years and something different for other years? (I might need to find a better reference book.) >> I replaced the ignition coil and the vehicle ran much better. However, >> the same fault code quickly returned and performance is again poor >> upon initial accelaration and when under load. > >Probably because you didn't replace the rest of the secondary system *at >the same time* (cables, spark plugs and, if applicable, cap and rotor). The plugs are fairly new. I did clean and regap them but they were in excellent condition. As there are no cap and rotor, that leaves the plug wires. Visually, I don't see that they are damaged and their resistance tests within the acceptable range.Would you still recommend replacing them? >> So, I'm going to replace the SMEC > >Waste of money unless/until you have tested it and it is *known* to be >bad. What's the method to test it? >> 1) Is this something I can do or is there some kind of calibration >> that must be perfromed by a mechanic? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > >Yes: Test and diagnose, don't just throw parts at the problem. Thanks for the advice. -- Christian > What's the difference between a SMEC and an SBEC? SMEC: Single Module Engine Controller, has a 60-pin and a 14-pin connector and multiple circuit boards inside. Used through 1989. SBEC: Single Board Engine Controller, has a 60-pin connector and only one circuit board inside. > What's the method to test it? Requires a scan tool. > Also, I see that Fault Code 43 can be either a problem with the coil or > a cylinder misfire, as you stated. I gather the code indicates one thng > for certain years and something different for other years? Yep. > The plugs are fairly new. I did clean and regap them but they were in > excellent condition. As there are no cap and rotor, that leaves the > plug wires. Visually, I don't see that they are damaged and their > resistance tests within the acceptable range.Would you still recommend > replacing them? A very common cause of persistent misfire is as follows: Misfire occurs due to secondary voltage leak down spark plug insulator to ground. First component replaced is spark plugs, but plug wire boots have also been affected, so affected plug boots continue to allow voltage leakage. Misfire persists, so spark plug wires are replaced, but plugs are left alone since they were just replaced. But, faulty plug boots caused leakage path on plug insulators. Back and forth and back and forth. Often a persistent misfire of this nature will go away when plugs AND wires are replaced at the same time. DS > The plugs are fairly new. I did clean and regap them but they were in > excellent condition. As there are no cap and rotor, that leaves the > plug wires. Visually, I don't see that they are damaged and their > resistance tests within the acceptable range.Would you still recommend > replacing them? You have carbon tracking on the spark plugs and plug wire boots as Daniel has described. Go buy 4 new spark plugs and a quality set of spark plug wires, install them, throw the spark plugs and the wires in the trash, even though they look okay, they're not. > You have carbon tracking on the spark plugs and plug wire boots > as Daniel has described. Aw, I donno, maybe he installed the wrong brand of spark plug, which caused his logic module to change the ignition timing! ;-) >> You have carbon tracking on the spark plugs and plug wire boots >> as Daniel has described. > >Aw, I donno, maybe he installed the wrong brand of spark plug, which >caused his logic module to change the ignition timing! ;-) Yeah that's probably it. I knew I should have never used foreign plugs on a domestic car! {:oP -- Christian > >> You have carbon tracking on the spark plugs and plug wire boots > >> as Daniel has described. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > -- Christian Which foreign plug did you use? >> >> You have carbon tracking on the spark plugs and plug wire boots >> >> as Daniel has described. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > >Which foreign plug did you use? Actually, that was a bit tongue-in-cheek. I was using NGK. As part of a tune-up the dealer changed them to Champion when I took it in for service. -- Christian > >> >> You have carbon tracking on the spark plugs and plug wire boots > >> >> as Daniel has described. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > I was using NGK. As part of a tune-up the dealer changed them to > Champion when I took it in for service. Nothing wrong with NGKs in a Chrysler as long as they're the correct heat range. > I was using NGK. As part of a tune-up the dealer changed them to > Champion when I took it in for service. Do yourself a favor and change back to NGKs. >> I was using NGK. As part of a tune-up the dealer changed them to >> Champion when I took it in for service. > >Do yourself a favor and change back to NGKs. I've always had good luck with them. Probably will change back. -- Christian In article <Pine.GSO.4.58.0502022104450.14891@alumni.engin.umich.edu>, > > You have carbon tracking on the spark plugs and plug wire boots > > as Daniel has described. > > Aw, I donno, maybe he installed the wrong brand of spark plug, which > caused his logic module to change the ignition timing! ;-) Didn't he claim it was the power module? > > Aw, I donno, maybe he installed the wrong brand of spark plug, which > > caused his logic module to change the ignition timing! ;-) > Didn't he claim it was the power module? He probably claimed as follows: if u INSTALLL THE RONG SPARK PLUG'S ONLY USE CHAMPION'S THEN THE TIMING WILL CHANGE IN THE LOJIK MODJUL >> > Aw, I donno, maybe he installed the wrong brand of spark plug, which >> > caused his logic module to change the ignition timing! ;-) [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >if u INSTALLL THE RONG SPARK PLUG'S ONLY USE CHAMPION'S THEN THE TIMING >WILL CHANGE IN THE LOJIK MODJUL Seems like I would remember that... -- Christian > >> > Aw, I donno, maybe he installed the wrong brand of spark plug, which > >> > caused his logic module to change the ignition timing! ;-) [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Seems like I would remember that... Daniel is referring to someone else's comments from a different thread... > >He probably claimed as follows: > > > >if u INSTALLL THE RONG SPARK PLUG'S ONLY USE CHAMPION'S THEN THE TIMING > >WILL CHANGE IN THE LOJIK MODJUL > > Seems like I would remember that... Naw, don't pay any heed, I was mocking someone else from a different thread. Nothing to do with your van. >> >He probably claimed as follows: >> > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >Naw, don't pay any heed, I was mocking someone else from a different >thread. Nothing to do with your van. Yeah, I figured that out after I posted. -- Christian |
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