I have a 1990 LeBaron Convertable, 3.0L V6, 4 speed auto.

None of the running lights work, nor do the cornering lamps.

The turn signals, brake lights and headlights all work.

When I install a fuse (20A) for the break lights then turn
the lights on, it immediately blows.

Jumpering across the fuse with a test lamp with the light switch
on makes a buzzer sound weakly and lights the test lamp, but
still no running lights.

Sort of a pain not being able to drive it after sunset.

The other problem is an intermittent crank but no-start
after it's been driven a while then shut off and left to
sit for a few minutes.

I did some research today and found how to get the trouble
codes, but I'm not certain exactly what the code number is
due to the way the check engine light blinks.

First is 12 for the start code, no problem there.

Then it makes a long pause, blinks twice quickly then
pauses, but not as long as the pause after the first code.

Then it blinks twice quickly again and pauses as long as it
did after the first code.

Then it does the twice-pause-twice again then the long
pause and 55 to indicate that it's done.

So is it blinking 44, or 22 twice??? Why couldn't it just
put the @%$@%#@%# codes out to the digital speedometer?
(Duhhh, that'd be too _easy_ and too _logical_ and if the
car owner ever found out the ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON trick with
the ignition, then he or she might be able to figure out
what a problem is without taking it to the expen$ive dealer.)

I also found some articles on 1990's Chryslers and other
MoPar makes that detail just how much of a pain they
can be to diagnose even with fancy equipment because if
you don't catch the problem as it happens, in three
seconds the computer will lie to itself that the sensors
are working properly by substituting their default values.
This keeps the car running until too many things fail
and the computer has to switch to "limp home" mode.

One instance was a 1990 Lebaron Coupe that claimed the
TPS voltage was exactly 5V when a voltmeter connected to
the TPS was reading over 13V, with spikes to 60V.
The problem turned out to be that the TPS wire and
injector #1 wires had at some point been mashed and
they were intermittently shorting together.