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Car Forum / Chrysler Cars / March 200590 Dodge Spirit - cold start & gas mileage
My daughter has a 90 Dodge Spirit, 4 cyl 2.5 L carb engine. It occasionally has been hard to start when real cold (Wisconsin winter cold, 10 degrees and lower), the gas mileage is not what I think it should be (low 20's on mostly highway driving); and it has twice stopped on her when driving (when she stopped at a light) and would not start up. Seems like a classic case of flooding when it wouldn't start - both times it started right up a couple of hours later when I tried it. The engine computer has not stored any trouble codes when it stopped or at any time. It just passed the annual emissions test (they plugged into the computer, didn't sniff the exhaust). I have replaced the inductive pick-up in the distributor, the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. I tried replacing the TBI fuel injector, but the engine wouldn't catch with the new one in - didn't smell any gas coming through (put the old one back in and it started fine). Any suggestions? Also, regarding your low-mileage complaint: How long since the Oxygen sensor was replaced? They tend to get lazy/slow with age and use. They won't set a code until they actually stop switching, but a slow O2S will put a dent in mileage. Use a Mopar, NTK, Echlin or Standard-BlueStreak, NOT a Bosch. DS > My daughter has a 90 Dodge Spirit, 4 cyl 2.5 L carb engine. It > occasionally has been hard to start when real cold (Wisconsin winter > cold, 10 degrees and lower), the gas mileage is not what I think it > should be (low 20's on mostly highway driving); and it has twice stopped > on her when driving (when she stopped at a light) and would not start > up. How many miles have you got on it? Mid-to-high 20s is more normal highway mileage in that car with that engine and that trans, but if you're in Milwaukee-metro or another area where oxygenated gasoline is mandated in winter, that can drop the MPGs by several. The refusal to start and the stalling is not normal. > Seems like a classic case of flooding when it wouldn't start - both > times it started right up a couple of hours later when I tried it. That doesn't necessarily indicate flooding (did we try holding the accelerator on the floor and cranking to see if it would fire immediately after it stalled?). > The engine computer has not stored any trouble codes when it > stopped or at any time. OK, good, so you checked. > It just passed the annual emissions test (they plugged into the > computer, didn't sniff the exhaust). That's unfortunate -- sniff test results often give valuable information. > I have replaced the inductive pick-up in the distributor, the spark > plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. I tried replacing the TBI fuel > injector, but the engine wouldn't catch with the new one in - didn't > smell any gas coming through (put the old one back in and it started > fine). The injector was a good idea. Your '90 still has the original ball-and-seat type injector, and those are somewhat problem-prone (sticking open, sticking closed). You got a *new* injector, did you, or was it a used/reconditioned one? Sometimes the recon ones don't work right out of the box; carefully but firmly rapping their top surfaces (NOT the electrical pins!) on a tabletop often frees them up. That said, new ones are available and not very expensive through any Bosch jobber, and the new ones are a more reliable pintle type. Also, check your EGR system carefully; it could be stuck partially open or failing to close properly. Do a complete go-through of the PCV system (not just the valve!) and careful inspection of ALL the vacuum hoses in the area of the throttle body and camshaft cover. They cook/crack/break with age. Also, install a different PCV valve from the one the parts store wants to hand you. Info here: http://tinyurl.com/6hkvt You'll want to remove the 60-pin disconnect from the engine control computer (located outboard of the battery; remove battery to access single 10mm bolt holding connector to computer) and carefully inspect for corrosion in pins or sockets. Clean if you find, liberally apply Ox-Gard to connector sockets (work in with your thumb) and reinstall connector. Another tough-to-trace fault that can happen on these cars is that moisture can condense and/or freeze in the vacuum line to the MAP sensor. The next time the car won't start, or stalls, unplug the MAP's electrical connector. If it starts up, suspect the sensor, but first carefully inspect the vacuum line to be sure it's not "wetted up". If none of this reveals the problem, then the fix will have to be preceeded by the use of a datalogging scanner. Also, regarding your low-mileage complaint: How long since the Oxygen sensor was replaced? They tend to get lazy/slow with age and use. They won't set a code until they actually stop switching, but a slow O2S will put a dent in mileage. Use a Mopar, NTK, Echlin or Standard-BlueStreak, NOT a Bosch. DS |
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