 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Chrysler Cars / September 2005test for failing EGR valve
I have a 95 Neon with 400,000+ km on it and believe that the EGR valve is failing. The car at some points, will not stay idling and will stall if no throtle is aplied. Other times, it'll idle at 1500+ RPM, and if I shift gears below 2500RPM, when I press the clutch and release the throtle, it revs up to about 3000RPM before dropping. >From what I have read, this fits for a dirty, or failing EGR valve. Is there a way of testing to verify that this is the valve that is failing, and not another problem? I would hate to pay the $125CND for the valve, and find out that is not the issue. If it is dirty, can it be cleaned? Mike mlawrenc(at)gmail.com you may want to check engine codes the stalling and stuff has nothing to do with the egr as many racers run egr block off plates on the egr with little to no effect. remove throttle body and clean intake manifold. clean bottom of throttle body check for vacuum leaks remove and clean the IAC on the throttle body then check the throttle position sensor also try resting the computer see if that helps use propane torch with out a flame around the intake manifold if idle increases then replace each runners gasket. >I have a 95 Neon with 400,000+ km on it and believe that the EGR valve > is failing. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Mike > mlawrenc(at)gmail.com Thank you for the ideas. I was going to try the propane torch this weekend. I will check the other items as well. Mike mlawrenc(at)gmail.com > you may want to check engine codes > the stalling and stuff has nothing to do with the egr as many racers run egr [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > > Mike > > mlawrenc(at)gmail.com Well... Things are getting worse. The engine is not trying to stall as often, however, now I have the revving issues. On the way into the office, the car was revving up to 4k RPM while waiting for the light to change. I did notice the sound of air being sucked in or something while sitting in the car. I was unable (and partly unwilling) to get check under the hood to find out where the noise was coming from (did not want to allow the revving to continue any further and not be able to kill the engine from inside the car). The one common thing I noticed is that when it does act up, it appears to be before the car reaches running temp. I do not believe that the actual temp of the engine is the factor, but think that maybe a sensor or two that comes into play when the car reaches running temp that may be correcting the problem. The one item that was mentioned in passing is that it may be something to do with the throtle positioning sensor. Would this make sense? Has anyone heard of this and or have any ideas? Mike mlawrenc(at)gmail.com > you may want to check engine codes > the stalling and stuff has nothing to do with the egr as many racers run egr [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > > Mike > > mlawrenc(at)gmail.com First check the obvious things: throttle, cruise control, or transaxle control cable(s) binding, a cable came partially off of the throttle bellcrank and is holding the throttle open, massive vacuum leak like a melted PCV hose, etc... The air rushing sound would lead me to check all large vacuum hoses. I would discount the TPS as a culprit at this time and look for more likely causes as outlined above. Toyota MDT in MO What makes this problem interesting is that it appears to only occur before the car reaches operating temp. I know there are a number of sensors that do not come into play until the computer indicates that the car is at running temp. This would almost lead me to believe that there are one or more sensors that is either correcting the problem once the car is warm. I have repetitivly checked the engine error codes, and have not received anything other then the 'battery has been disconnected within so many starts'. I have even gone as far as checking the condition of the spark plugs (comes from growing up around two-stroke engines) and have not noticed anything other then the engine is running a little hot (which appears to be common between this 95 Neon and my 2001 Neon). I will be spending this long weekend Removing the intake assembly in CAI, throtle body and clean it out. Is there any where specific I should check? Mike mlawrenc(at)gmail.com you use a vac gauge to test the egr for proper operation once the pcm see'e 130 degrees the computer goes into closed loop and takes reading's for all sensors and acts accordingly. removing the intake would be a waste of time as far as i see from your post > What makes this problem interesting is that it appears to only occur > before the car reaches operating temp. I know there are a number of [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > Mike > mlawrenc(at)gmail.com > you may want to check engine codes > the stalling and stuff has nothing to do with the egr as many racers run egr > block off plates on the egr with little to no effect. A bad EGR valve can't cause stalling? What happens when an EGR valve sticks open or is commanded open improperly at idle? The engine will chug or stall from an excess of inert exaust gas which it is not metering or compensating for. Blocking off an EGR port just bypasses an EGR system; it is in no way proof that a faulty EGR system cannot cause stalling. > remove throttle body and clean intake manifold. > clean bottom of throttle body [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > use propane torch with out a flame around the intake manifold if idle > increases then replace each runners gasket. Good advice -- free or inexpensive things to look at and clean.... Toyota MDT in MO |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.