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Car Forum / Chrysler Cars / November 2005Blower Resistor 1998 Intrepid 2.7
For the third time this year the Blower Resistor has failed, leaving me with Off and Full. The dealer replaces them as they have a 1 year warranty. The problem seems to be the location, the coils corrode. Has anyone any suggestions how to prevent this corrosion occurring. Its not the price its the contortions one has to assume tochange it! Keith Corrosion?? Where do you live? The blower resistor is concealed in the firewall. It's not exposed to the elements. I sense it's possibly receiving too much voltage. Very Interesting, indeed. actually it's exposed to moisture from the a/c system and is clearly visible > Corrosion?? Where do you live? The blower resistor is concealed in the > firewall. It's not exposed to the elements. I sense it's possibly [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000 Newsgroups > ---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- the new style reistor is a sealed unit. and the evaporator coil sits in front of the resisitor so you may be getting moisture from other source > For the third time this year the Blower Resistor has failed, leaving me with > Off and Full. > The dealer replaces them as they have a 1 year warranty. The problem seems > to be the location, the coils corrode. > Has anyone any suggestions how to prevent this corrosion occurring. Its not > the price its the contortions one has to assume tochange it! When the resistor pack blows repeatedly, the problem is almost always the blower motor needing to be replaced. Replace the blower motor, and the resistor pack will quit failing. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') sorry to inform you bill but those credit card type resistors for blowers are made so any moisture can get to the circutboard and cause issues there was a redesign after 3 years and it does work a whole lot better Bill Punted wrote: > > For the third time this year the Blower Resistor has failed, leaving me with > > Off and Full. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with the letter 'x') hi keith your problem is not corrosion but the quality of the previous resistors installed.mopar has released a revised part number blower resistor . i suggest you get that one installed. > hi keith your problem is not corrosion but the quality of the previous > resistors installed.mopar has released a revised part number blower > resistor . i suggest you get that one installed. Blower Motor bad Please explain: The Blower motor is either off or full on. How can a bad blower motor affect the resistor that sets the different speeds. I can pick up a motor for $30 from a wreckers if it will rectify the problem (blown resistors etc) Keith > > hi keith your problem is not corrosion but the quality of the previous > > resistors installed.mopar has released a revised part number blower > > resistor . i suggest you get that one installed. > > Blower Motor bad > Please explain: The Blower motor is either off or full on. How can a bad > blower motor affect the resistor that sets the different speeds. > I can pick up a motor for $30 from a wreckers if it will rectify the problem > (blown resistors etc) When the motor is full on, the resistors are completely bypassed (+12V applied directly to motor, no current thru the resistors) - so motor will still run on hi speed even with burned up resistors. When everything was good, the slower motor speeds were controlled by running the power to the motor thru the resistors (resistors and motor in series - resistors drop voltage, motor sees less voltage, runs slower). When the motors age, for some reason, they start pulling more current (could be due to partially shorted windings *or* bearings/bushings starting to bind up *or* brush dust building up on commutator and partially shorting between the commutation bars). Whatever the cause (of lower effective resistance => higher current) in the motor, the resistors are not designed for the higher current/lower resistance load, and they burn up (it's called cheap design with no safety factor). Clear as mud? Motor from a junk yard may or may not develop the same problem (as could a new motor, but likely not for a long while). Used motor => risk. New motor => no problem at least for a while (how long before the original motor started blowing the resistors?). Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') Thanks Bill, quite clear in fact. It took about 3 years before4 the first resistor went another 3 years before the next one then 5 months. I have bought the one from the wreckers and will put it in tomorrow. If it works all well and good , if not at least I get practice in swopping it over. Incidentally I have the 2.7 Engine with 255000 on the clock, no sludge, no oil problems so a defective blower is no big deal. Keith > > Please explain: The Blower motor is either off or full on. How can a bad > > blower motor affect the resistor that sets the different speeds. [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with the letter 'x') > Thanks Bill, quite clear in fact. > It took about 3 years before4 the first resistor went another 3 years before [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Incidentally I have the 2.7 Engine with 255000 on the clock, no sludge, no > oil problems so a defective blower is no big deal. That's a good record on tne 2.7L. Are you still on the original timing chain and water pump? I'm over 150k miles on mine and contemplating ordering the parts with the idea of putting them in when the mood strikes (Spring?). Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') Yes, still on original timing chain and water pump. A chrysler dealer told me that I should replace the timing 'belt' at 100,000 km. They did not seem to realise it was a chain! > > Thanks Bill, quite clear in fact. > > It took about 3 years before4 the first resistor went another 3 years before [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with the letter 'x') >>> ...Incidentally I have the 2.7 Engine with 255000 on the clock, no sludge, >>> no oil problems so a defective blower is no big deal. >> >>That's a good record on tne 2.7L. Are you still on the original timing >>chain and water pump? I'm over 150k miles on mine and contemplating >>ordering the parts with the idea of putting them in when the mood >>strikes (Spring?). > Yes, still on original timing chain and water pump. > A chrysler dealer told me that I should replace the timing 'belt' at 100,000 > km. They did not seem to realise it was a chain! LOL! Not surprised. I had to show a dealer in the FSM that the tranny and diff on the LH cars have separate sumps. Wow - you're at 255k on original chain and pump! I have considered just letting 'er ride and see what happens - I'm tempted again with your experience. Some claim that the water pump coming apart is more of a risk than the chain, but of course if you do one, you might as well do both. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') Am I naive? I assume a chain just wears gradually as opposed to a belt that 'snaps'. This gives you time to schedule replacement and, of course, do the water pump at the same time. Keith > > "Bill Putney" <bputney@kinez.net> wrote in message > > news:dl5216$3fj$1@domitilla.aioe.org... [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with the letter 'x') > Am I naive? I assume a chain just wears gradually as opposed to a belt that > 'snaps'. This gives you time to schedule replacement and, of course, do the > water pump at the same time. The chain *will* gradually wear, and eventually will develop slack that the tensioner cannot compensate for. Based on my reading, there is also a real-world risk that the water pump will lock up or come apart and wreak havoc - ripping the timing chain out and causing other damage - supposedly there are several real-world examples of this with the 2.7L. The third risk with the 2.7, due to it's being prone to fatal sludging, is that the oil pressure-driven chain tensioner can loose oil pressure and relax the chain, with disasterous results. Be aware that the 2.7L is an interference engine (i.e., if the cams and crankshaft become unsynchronized due to slipped or broken chain, the valves and pistons can collide - potentially very expensive). The good news for you is that your engine is apparently not falling victim to sludge - either due to very good maintenance (oil changes, etc.) and/or mostly hiway driving (vs. short trip, and/or stop and go). Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') it still runs thru resistor but as a default mode so it has a working blower in case of failure as designed a blower that is using to many amps in it's duty cycle can burn out a resistor prematurely > > Please explain: The Blower motor is either off or full on. How can a bad > > blower motor affect the resistor that sets the different speeds. [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with the letter 'x') I'm not sure exactly what you're saying there, but no current goes thru any resistors when the motor is on hi speed. It may flow thru a solid metal path inside the resistor pak for hi speed, but not thru any resistors per se - maybe that's what you're saying in the first part of your post. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') > it still runs thru resistor but as a default mode so it has a working > blower in case of failure as designed a blower that is using to many [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] >> higher current/lower resistance load, and they burn up (it's called >> cheap design with no safety factor). |
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