as for codes: 12,35,41, and 55

Basically, the battery would read 12.3 - 12.5 volts when the engine
was off. When you started it, it dropped to something below 12v. When
you revved the engine, it would go down more. I guess all this was
already obvious.

I took the "new" alternator off, and found which wires the 2 (coming
off the molded connector) correspond to. There's a square connector
near the battery, and two of those pins correspond to the 2 that
connect to the alternator. Haven't determined which is the "field" or
"control" (computer) wires yet. Have to see what my wiring diagram says
(and my diagram says it's for an AA body, and I think mine is AJ. Was
e-mailed and told that it shouldn't matter).

Now, once I get done tasting the alternator, by grounding the control
terminal, I guess I have to start randomly testing continuity. There
isn't as many wires as I first suspected though. And the part about the
starter - how would I tell if the starter is causing the problem.
Thanks immensely for everyone's help by the way. I'm sure I'll be an
electrical expert after I get through this :).

I took a look at my old alternator, which had alot nicer fit. It won't
turn, obviously frozen from the humidity in the air. Since these things
are repairable, I'll probably clean it up, deal with the binding issue,
and reinstall it. Are parts generally available to overhaul alternators
these days? Hate putting too much money into this car. Needs a cat,
struts, and shocks as it is lol. I already bought everything necessary
for a major tune-up. My guess is I could even install new bearings
(bronze?) with an arbor press? if necessary.

I think the regulator is in the computer module. Can't swear to it,
but I think that's what the dude at Carquest told me.