Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Chrysler Cars / March 2006

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

92 acclaim check engine light goes on & off with radio or heater

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
herbkruiz@gmail.com - 14 Mar 2006 00:03 GMT
Hi
My wife's 1992 plymouth acclaim's check engine light is coming on
whenever the radio or heater is turned on,  It goes out when the radio
or heater is turned off.  Is it time for a new alternator or does the
problem lie elswhere?  

thanks

Dutchie
Daniel J. Stern - 14 Mar 2006 03:13 GMT
> My wife's 1992 plymouth acclaim's check engine light is coming on
> whenever the radio or heater is turned on, It goes out when the radio or
> heater is turned off.  Is it time for a new alternator or does the
> problem lie elswhere?

To check the computer codes:

With the engine off, switch the ignition key on-off-on-off-on,
leaving it "ON". Do not
go to "start", just "on" during this procedure.

Watch the "Check Engine" or "Power Loss" light.  It will turn on, then go
off, then will begin to flash-out any trouble codes that have been stored.
For instance, if it flashes:

flash <pause> flash flash
<long pause>
flash flash flash <pause> flash flash flash flash flash
<long pause>
flash flash flash flash flash <pause> flash flash flash flash flash

Then you have a 12 (one flash followed by two) a 35 (three and five) and a
55 (five and five).  55 means "end of codes" or, if by itself, "No codes
stored.  Check the codes and report what you find.
dutchie26 - 14 Mar 2006 21:35 GMT
Thanks for the prompt reply!

I get a 12 a 47 and then 55

does that help at all??

Dutchie
Daniel J. Stern - 14 Mar 2006 22:51 GMT
> I get a 12 a 47 and then 55 does that help at all??

Yep.

12: Start of codes
47: Line voltage too low
55: End of codes

Go get your battery and your alternator load-tested, and carefully inspect
all three topside connections on your battery cables (positive and
negative cable terminal clamps on the battery, and the plastic pull-apart
connector about 7" downstream from the battery in the positive cable). You
will probably need a new battery; yours probably has a dead cell.
dutchie26 - 15 Mar 2006 01:28 GMT
Thanks a lot for the information/advice it is greatly appreciated!

I swapped out the battery with the newer battery from my vehicle ( less
than 6 months old).  I also cleaned the battery cable terminals.  No
change.  I did notice a few things.  With the car idling the
alternator/battery gauge sits at 3/4.  when I turn on the heater it
drops to less than 1/4 and the check gauges light comes on.  The next
time I do it it stays at 3/4 and no check gauges light.  If I keep
monkeying around turning on the high beams or the heater it will at
some point drop down to less than 1/4 and the check gauges light comes
on again. The problem does not seem to be consistent.

Tomorrow I will take the alternator in to be tested.  Is there anything
else I can do in the meantime?

Thanks again

Dutchie
Daniel J. Stern - 15 Mar 2006 04:55 GMT
> I swapped out the battery with the newer battery from my vehicle ( less
> than 6 months old).  I also cleaned the battery cable terminals.

All *three* of them?

> With the car idling the alternator/battery gauge sits at 3/4.  when I
> turn on the heater it drops to less than 1/4 and the check gauges light
> comes on. The next time I do it it stays at 3/4 and no check gauges
> light.  If I keep monkeying around turning on the high beams or the
> heater it will at some point drop down to less than 1/4 and the check
> gauges light comes on again. The problem does not seem to be consistent.

Intermittent problems are always fun to diagnose. Remember to *test and
diagnose*, not just throw parts at the problem.

> Tomorrow I will take the alternator in to be tested.

Have it tested at an auto electrical house -- a starter/alternator place
-- not at the parts store.
dutchie26 - 26 Mar 2006 17:15 GMT
Just to let you guys know.
I finally got around to getting the alternator checked and sure enough
that was the problem.  New alternator and the problem is gone.  Thanks
for all the input.  Very much appreciated

Dutchie
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2008 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.