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Car Forum / Chrysler Cars / March 2006walmart house oil?
hello to all . does anyone know who makes it ? i heard castrol does. also i can rember helping grandpa as a kid and all he did was change the filter and add a quart. lol my how times have changed.waite does anyone still do this ? SKU I consider Castrol to be a good lubricant, but there's no telling what crap they'd manufacture for Wal-Mart (or anybody else) if the Castrol name's not going to be on it. My cars doen't burn enough oil that there'd be room to add a quart. Perce > hello to all . > does anyone know who makes it ? i heard castrol does. > also i can rember helping grandpa as a kid and all he did was change the > filter and add a quart. lol my how times have changed.waite does anyone > still do this ? SKU > I consider Castrol to be a good lubricant, but there's no telling what > crap they'd manufacture for Wal-Mart (or anybody else) if the Castrol > name's not going to be on it. > > My cars doen't burn enough oil that there'd be room to add a quart. So you'd just leave out the quart that is inside the old filter when you take it off and throw it away, or did you miss the fact that this is the reason for adding the quart? FWIW, I suspect more people are doing this today than a few years ago because more people are running extended oil change intervals. It doesn't hurt to change the filter and add a quart halfway through an extended oil change interval with synthetic oils (order of 9000 mile drain intervals) just to get a new filter in there, plus a dose of fresh oil and additives to boot. But that's assuming you do a COMPLETE oil and filter change at the end of the interval. >> hello to all . >> does anyone know who makes it ? i heard castrol does. >> also i can rember helping grandpa as a kid and all he did was change >> the filter and add a quart. lol my how times have changed.waite does >> anyone still do this ? SKU <So you'd just leave out the quart that is inside the old filter when you <take it off and throw it away, or did you miss the fact that this is the <reason for adding the quart? I haven't seen a filter in several years that would hold a quart. Most are closer to a cup these days. A quart used to be "normal," though. <FWIW, I suspect more people are doing this today than a few years ago <because more people are running extended oil change intervals. It <doesn't hurt to change the filter and add a quart halfway through an <extended oil change interval with synthetic oils (order of 9000 mile <drain intervals) just to get a new filter in there, plus a dose of fresh <oil and additives to boot. I suspect you are right. Most cars/drivers today, though, still fall in the "severe use" or whatever similar category the manufacturers use. They should not be using the "extended" intervals suggested by the owner's manuals and car salespeople. Most probably do, though. As for Wal-Mart, they have nothing that you can't buy somewhere else. I refuse to shop there. > <So you'd just leave out the quart that is inside the old filter when > you [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > I haven't seen a filter in several years that would hold a quart. Most > are closer to a cup these days. A quart used to be "normal," though. They still sell the AC PF2 / Motorcraft FL-1A / Wix 1515 / Purolator L3001 size (quart) filter. AND it fits on a lot of engines that come equipped with those rinky-dink teacup size filters too, and a lot of people (including me) use it on every vehicle they own. > I suspect you are right. Most cars/drivers today, though, still fall > in the "severe use" or whatever similar category the manufacturers use. > They should not be using the "extended" intervals suggested by the > owner's manuals and car salespeople. Most probably do, though. People who do oil analyses are finding that name brand(*) synthetic (and group-III base non-synthetic) oil is barely even showing any degradation at 9k miles, even in extremely severe use. The old "3000 mile" oil change is ridiculous with high quality modern oils. There's a lot of good information that suggests that some engine/oil combinations could easily run 20,000 miles between changes. You won't catch me going past about 9000, though, which I've been doing for a long time. One engine with 400k miles and two others with over 250k say it works just fine. * obviously this disqualifies "house brand" oils. Not because they necessarily aren't excellent today, but because tomorrow you won't have a clue who's making it when the current contract expires. Steve wrote <They still sell the AC PF2 / Motorcraft FL-1A / Wix 1515 / Purolator <L3001 size (quart) filter. AND it fits on a lot of engines that come <equipped with those rinky-dink teacup size filters too, and a lot of <people (including me) use it on every vehicle they own. Yes, they do. The point was that most factory filters don't hold a quart anymore. Most owners probably don't use the quart size filter even if they could (me included). Many surely do. Regardless of capacity, you are correct that changing the filter 'only' requires one to replace the lost oil. <People who do oil analyses are finding that name brand(*) synthetic (and <group-III base non-synthetic) oil is barely even showing any degradation <at 9k miles, even in extremely severe use. The old "3000 mile" oil <change is ridiculous with high quality modern oils. There's a lot of <good information that suggests that some engine/oil combinations could <easily run 20,000 miles between changes. You won't catch me going past <about 9000, though, which I've been doing for a long time. One engine <with 400k miles and two others with over 250k say it works just fine. Oil analysis is practiced regularly at my employer...we don't change oil there unless analysis says it's time. There's no doubt that good quality oils will go much farther than 3000 today under most any circumstances. One guy who works for me tells of a GM lubrication school he attended in the late 60's (as a GM employee) that debunked the 3000 mile theory. They espoused 9000-12000 for most users. He claims that the oil companies kept GM from making that public knowledge. I believe the first parts of that, but not sure about the last :-). I personally use the rediculous 3000 mile rule for several reasons....it's easy to remember, it can't hurt, I'm old and used to it, my kids remember it and bring their cars by, and I have a million miles of positive experience. Priceless, to me, even if it does cost an extra hundred bucks a year. Couldn't pay me to use the "house brand" stuff tho, even if it's exactly the same. > Steve wrote > <They still sell the AC PF2 / Motorcraft FL-1A / Wix 1515 / Purolator [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] > extra hundred bucks a year. Couldn't pay me to use the "house brand" > stuff tho, even if it's exactly the same. I use that rule also for my 1940 Chrysler Royal and my 2005 PT Cruiser Convertible!  Signature"What do you mean there's no movie?" > Steve wrote > <They still sell the AC PF2 / Motorcraft FL-1A / Wix 1515 / Purolator [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > miles of positive experience. Priceless, to me, even if it does cost an > extra hundred bucks a year. But it doesen't cost an extra hundred bucks a year. The US average is 14,000 miles per driver per car per yer. Going from 9000 to 3000 mile means maybe 4 oil changes a year vs 2 oil changes per year. That is only 2 extra changes per year. Are you really paying $50 per oil change? I see them advertised for $19.95 all the time. I do my own and I often buy name brand oil on sale for $1 a quart. A good filter is about $6 so I figure at most $10-12 per change. Most cars burn a little oil, very few burn a quart in 3000 miles though. And even if they do, so what? Engines are fine running a quart low, that's only to the bottom of the hash marks on the dipstick. But if you wait 9000 you may save a few bucks on oil but lose a lot of money on the engine, because the oil gets too low. Ted Ted wrote: <But it doesen't cost an extra hundred bucks a year. The US average is <14,000 miles per driver per car per yer. Going from 9000 to 3000 mile means maybe <4 oil changes a year vs 2 oil changes per year. That is only 2 extra <changes per year. Are you really paying $50 per oil change? No, I don't pay $50 per oil change. We also don't drive just 14,000 miles a year. 60-70,000 would be much closer. Going from 9000 intervals to 3000 intervals requires three times as many changes...that math is simple. There's also more to the change than the oil and filter...you have to have the tools, the disposal, the cleanup, etc. 2 changes at $25 is $50. 3 times 2 at $25 is $150. Looks like a hundred bucks to me, your results may vary. If you drive 60-70K a year, it's easily an extra hundred. > Ted wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > me, your results may vary. If you drive 60-70K a year, it's easily an > extra hundred. Not to mention the fact that hard mileage like that is EXACTLY where long oil change intervals make the most sense as far as the oil condition, too. Short trip driving is much harder on oil because of contamination with fuel and water than hard/high mileage driving. > But it doesen't cost an extra hundred bucks a year. The US average is > 14,000 [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > year. Are you really paying $50 per oil change? I see them advertised for > $19.95 all the time... Ahh! That's where the additional $100 a year comes in - from when the guy at jiffy Lube strips your oil pan drain hole threads. :) Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') > > But it doesen't cost an extra hundred bucks a year. The US average is > > 14,000 [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Ahh! That's where the additional $100 a year comes in - from when the > guy at jiffy Lube strips your oil pan drain hole threads. :) :-) Tools are a capital cost, I've owned my oil changing strap wrench for 20 years, and when I bought it it only cost $3. Disposal? We have curbside recycling here, the garbagemen pick up used oil and they are glad to get it - it's one of the few things among the other recyclables that they can actually sell at a profit. Cleanup? I can change my oil in 15 minutes in a white cotton shirt and you can't tell I've done it. If your a business that's running 60-70K and your paying employees to change your vehicle's oil then I can accept that it costs $25 a change. If your doing the changes yourself and paying $25 per change your an idiot. Dipstick implied it cost anyone, not him specifically, an extra hundred, that was what I objected to. I've seen the extended drain advocate posts many times and there's always a couple points they miss: 1) High mileage vehicles get maintained a lot better than average mileage vehicles (if they don't they die pretty quick and the owners learn pretty fast to start maintaining them better) and your not going to see one of these run low on oil without being noticed 2) Your also going to see high mileage vehicles get better quality parts (not the garbage-grade Frams, or the higher-quality Frams full of teflon) specifically oil filters. 3) High mileage vehicles don't have a lot of cold spells to let all the water and acids and crap condense into the oil 4) it's a big savings to extend the oil change on a high mileage vehicle, it is little savings to extend it on average mileage vehicle 5) High mileage vehicles often are run with synthetic oil, the average vehicle isn't. 6) high mileage vehicles specifically ones in businesses tend to have their oil changes done by paid employes which costs more, the average mileage vehicle tends more to having the owner change the oil which costs less. All of these points I believe mean that an extended oil change interval that would be Ok for a high mileage vehicle specifically one used in a business, may not apply to a low mileage vehicle. I think in a lot more cases than people realize, it does not apply. Another argument that the extended drain people use is the conspiacy one that says the oil change places are all trying to con people into using 3000K changes. That always irritates me because the quick change places never get more or less money as a result of a lot of people who do their own changes, since they don't get any money at all for these. Ted Ted wrote: <Tools are a capital cost, I've owned my oil changing strap wrench for <20 years, and when I bought it it only cost $3. Disposal? We have <curbside recycling here, the garbagemen pick up used oil and <they are glad to get it - it's one of the few things among the other <recyclables that they can actually sell at a profit. Cleanup? I can <change my oil in 15 minutes in a white cotton shirt and you can't <tell I've done it. It takes more than a strap wrench to change oil. With my 4 vehicles I have to have two different filter wrenches (can't get a strap wrench on one of them) and there are three different sizes of drain plugs (on 3 Pontiacs, no less!). Also have to have something to drain the oil into and generally some way to get the front of the vehicle up in the air a bit. I use a floor jack. Disposal will be all over the place, depending on where you are. The "legal" way here is to carry it to an oil change place that will accept it (most will charge you) or to a city fire station which will take it free. Then you have the oily rags, something to clean up the crud that runs down the block and onto the frame rails, etc. <If your doing the changes yourself and paying $25 per change your <an idiot. $25 is probably a bit excessive, even including all the true costs. $15-20 would not be unreasonable at all, though. Glad I'm a few bucks from being an idiot :-) <Dipstick implied it cost anyone, not him specifically, an extra hundred, <that was what I objected to. Maybe that's what you read, it's not what I intended. I was speaking of my specific 60-70,000 miles per year between 4 vehicles situation, and trying to put an upper limit of a hundred extra a year on it. I'm with you on the 3000 mile changes. There is a lot of evidence that says it isn't necessary. I do it anyway. The other point I tried to make in the beginning is that most vehicle/drivers fall in the manufacturer's "severe" or whatever they call it category whether they believe it or not. For what it's worth, the daughter's '04 Grand Am with the oil life system said it was time to change oil at 2200 miles last time around....those 1 and 2 and 5 mile trips in the dead of winter take their toll. > Ted wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > to clean up the crud that runs down the block and onto the frame rails, > etc. You just haven't changed them enough to have the experience to do it quickly and cleanly. Like I said, I can do it in a white cotton shirt and you can't tell I've done it. I've done it often enough in my vehicles that I know exactly where to put my arms so the used oil from the filter doesen't come cascading down my arms, and I use a big drip pan that catches everything, and I don't let the drain plug drop into the pan so I'm fishing around in used oil for it, etc. etc. And I only use a single rag. Jus tlike anything, there's tricks to it that you can learn to do it quickly and cleanly. I wasn't always that way with me I'll admit. One of the 2nd or 3rd oil changes I ever did back when I was probably 16, I thought the filter was stuck, ended up trying the old hammer the screwdriver through the filter and pound on it trick, black oil was everywhere, all over the floor, all over me, in my hair, yuck. Then I finally figured out I was turning the filter backwards, by then it was so jammed on and so much of it was torn away that I had to go buy a special strap wrench, fortunately it came off. And of course, I had to be somewhere to meet my girlfriend that evening, so by the time that I did meet her I was just barely on time, had not had a chance to take a shower, and of course when she meets me she reaches up to tousel my hair and pulls her hand back, yuuck! It put rather a damper on the evening, better than any chasity belt I can tell you. > <If your doing the changes yourself and paying $25 per change your > <an idiot. > > $25 is probably a bit excessive, even including all the true costs. > $15-20 would not be unreasonable at all, though. Glad I'm a few bucks > from being an idiot :-) Shucks/Checkers loves to put oil on sale with their little coupons in the paper and the rebates, for the last 7 years I've never spent more than a dollar a quart on name brand dino oil. Unfortunately they only carry Fram filters so I never buy filters there, but a few places put Purolator filters on sale a couple times a year, once again as loss-leaders. I always buy oil and filters on sale when they go on sale and I buy as much as I have storage space for and as I think I'm going to use for the next year. I also have a 10 gallon plastic oil container that I put used oil in, After I do a change I set the catch pan out on end against the side of the garage overnight to drain into the oil container. In the morning I put the used filter face down in the catch pan and let that drain over the next day. Whenever the family buys milk in the 1 gallon plastic jugs I rinse them out and toss them under the workbench. When the big container starts getting heavy I pour it off into the plastic jugs set them out for recycling. The used oil filters get set out for metals recycling as well. That way then oil change time does come, I just have to walk out to the garage and everything is right there ready to go. > <Dipstick implied it cost anyone, not him specifically, an extra > hundred, [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > my specific 60-70,000 miles per year between 4 vehicles situation, and > trying to put an upper limit of a hundred extra a year on it. Ok. > I'm with you on the 3000 mile changes. There is a lot of evidence that > says it isn't necessary. There is absolutely no one reputable that would tell you to NOT check your oil LEVEL every 3000 miles, but wait longer. Most would say to check oil level a lot more frequently, preferably at every fueling. The problem I find is that almost always when I need gas I'm either running late, or am squeakly clean going to work, or going out, or with the kids, or whatever. In short, nowhere that I can afford to get my fingers all dirty and greasy which happens when I lift the hood. In the morning when I go out to the car I'm clean and trying to go somewhere, in the evening when I come back the last thing on my mind is checking the oil level, not to mention most times it's dark outside anyway. I just cannot imagine that it's any different for most other people, and I think a hell of a lot of people give lip service to the idea that they check their oil frequently, in reality I think most people don't. And I'm mechanically inclined, the idea that my wife would even know how to check oil level let alone do it is laughable. It may not be necessary to change the oil every 3000 miles but merely to check the oil level every 3000 miles, but in my family to even do that means it has to be scheduled, a time has to be set aside for it, or it won't happen. And if I'm going to go to the trouble to schedule lifting the hood, just going ahead and changing the oil is hardly any more effort than that, and I'm also going to check the antifreeze level, washer fluid, etc. etc. Ted > You just haven't changed them enough to have the experience to do it > quickly and cleanly. Like I said, I can do it in a white cotton shirt and [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > I'm fishing around in used oil for it, etc. etc. And I only use a single > rag. But if my life is any example, getting to the point where you know how to do it without getting oil all over the place comes in two distinct stages: Stage 1: You learn that there is no way to shorten the time of pain when your arm is covered in hot oil. Flailing about or reaching for a rag to wipe the oil off with doesn't help. You learn that the only thing you can do is bite your lip (or keep a stick handy to bite down on like in the movies when a guy is having his leg amputated with no anesthetic) and wait for the oil film to cool down or the nerves to deaden. Stage 2: This is where you learn to avoid the deep-fried arm in the first place. I have it down now to where at most I get oil on the tips of two fingers as I gently turn the plug out of the last two turns with slight outward force so you're out of the stream quickly when it does come out, and I have a rag laid out on the floor as the trajectory target of my hand with plug to lay the plug on. The involved surface area of the finger tips is small enough not to cause any pain. (At this point, someone is likely to chime in extolling the virtues of the Fram Sure-Drain™ or competing product.) > ...There is absolutely no one reputable that would tell you to NOT check > your oil LEVEL every 3000 miles, but wait longer. Most would say [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > the kids, or whatever. In short, nowhere that I can afford to get my > fingers all dirty and greasy which happens when I lift the hood... Poppy-cock. It's simple time management (which I am otherwise lousy at). As you're getting out of the car, you pull the hood latch (time lost: zero). While you have the nozzle latched on waiting for the click-off (fuel flows no faster holding it wide open than latched on the highest notch), you raise the hood and check the oil and are done and standing beside the nozzle before 12 to 15 gallons is dispensed. Use a paper towel supplied at the pump to wipe the dipstick - your fingers don't touch a molecule of oil. As far as getting dirty in the process of simply lifting the hood and pulling/inserting the stick, I don't understand that. Total time lost relative to not checking the oil and standing around waiting for the fill to finish: Zero. If you're already running late, you will be no later for having checked the oil. Quit making excuses and get your head out and your priorities straight Mittelstaedt!! :) Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') The 3.5 in my 3ooM is a piece of cake to do an oil change. The 3.0 in 1988 New Yorker in no problem. The 4.6 in my 1995 T-Bird is a pain in the butt. There is no way you will ever NOT get dirty changing oil and filter in that car. >> You just haven't changed them enough to have the experience to do it >> quickly and cleanly. Like I said, I can do it in a white cotton shirt [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > the movies when a guy is having his leg amputated with no anesthetic) > and wait for the oil film to cool down or the nerves to deaden. I tend to change my oil in two steps. This saves getting burned and allows much more complete drainage, but doesn't get me done in the 15 minutes that Ted suggested. I like to chang my oil when it is really hot so I tend to do so after having driven at least 20 minutes. I then put the car on the ramps and let it cool just a few minutes as I'm gathering my supplies (oil, filter, tools, etc.) I then remove the drain plug as this is the least messy for me. The plug can be a little hot at times, but usually I use a box-end wrench which helps soak out some of the heat. I then loosen it until the threads are completely free and oil has begun to drip and then pull it out briskly and drop it onto a cloth. I seldom get oil on my fingers with this process. I then go do something else for 30 - 60 minutes letting the oil drain until it virtually isn't even dripping any longer. I then wipe around the drain hole, clean the plug, replace the crush washer on cars that require this (seems only Japanese and Korean cars) and install the plug. The engine is now pretty cool so I move the drain pan under the oil filter and remove that next. On some of my cars this isn't too bad (my truck has a horizontal filter so I can unscrew it and let it drain without getting messy, other than the fact that it drips right onto the front driveshaft u-joint! On my other two vehicles (Grand Caravan and Hyundai Sonata), the filters are vertical and I haven't found a way to escape having oil run down the filter when loosening it. I could puncture it, but I haven't found that to be much less messy. The vertical filters are nice in that you can prefill the new filter to save time on the engine running with no oil pressure, but they are a pain for removal. Some folks wrap a large rag around the filter, but I just loosen it until it starts to leak and let it drip for a while before taking it the rest of the way off. The Caravan isn't too bad as access to the filter is good, but the Sonata is a pain as there is a plastic air shield under the engine and they only provide about a 5-6" diamter hole for oil filter access. It is just big enough to fit my forearm through and I don't think I could get a rag and filter back down through the hole if I used a rag to capture the oil while removing the filter. > Stage 2: This is where you learn to avoid the deep-fried arm in the > first place. I have it down now to where at most I get oil on the tips [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > target of my hand with plug to lay the plug on. The involved surface > area of the finger tips is small enough not to cause any pain. If you push in on the plug until you feel it "skip" as the last thread is cleared once, and then remove it briskly, you can usually avoid even getting your finger tips oily. > (At this point, someone is likely to chime in extolling the virtues of > the Fram Sure-Drain™ or competing product.) I considered that for my Sonata, but the issue isn't the drain plug, other than the need to replace the crush washer at every change - this would probably buy a quick drain fitting after 100,000 miles of changes! The issue for me with regard to mess is the filter not the drain plug. >> ...There is absolutely no one reputable that would tell you to NOT check >> your oil LEVEL every 3000 miles, but wait longer. Most would say [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > of simply lifting the hood and pulling/inserting the stick, I don't > understand that. Except that here in PA almost all of the self-serve stations remove the automatic dispensing latches. I don't think it is a law as I do occasionally find a station with pump handles so eqiupped, but the local stations I buy from don't have this. Some folks stick their gas cap in to jamb the handle, but I don't like that idea much. > Total time lost relative to not checking the oil and standing around > waiting for the fill to finish: Zero. If you're already running late, > you will be no later for having checked the oil. > > Quit making excuses and get your head out and your priorities straight > Mittelstaedt!! :) Yea, Ted, shape up! Matt Matt (and Bill) wrote... <> Total time lost relative to not checking the oil and standing around >> waiting for the fill to finish: Zero. If you're already running late, > >you will be no later for having checked the oil. >> Quit making excuses and get your head out and your priorities straight >> Mittelstaedt!! :) >Yea, Ted, shape up! A guy that can change oil in a white shirt using one rag and not get dirty won't check his oil at the filling station for fear of geting dirty....just doesn't quite add up, does it ;-) > Matt (and Bill) wrote... > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > dirty won't check his oil at the filling station for fear of geting > dirty....just doesn't quite add up, does it ;-) I was thinking the same thing, but didn't say anything... :-) Matt Did you all notice that Matt and Ted have posted about 15,000 words in this thread? You guys could have done a lifetime worth of oil changes in the time it took to do that. > Did you all notice that Matt and Ted have posted about 15,000 words in this > thread? > > You guys could have done a lifetime worth of oil changes in the time it took > to do that. Yes, probably the only thing dumber would be to count the words and post that... Matt > ...I then wipe around > the drain hole, clean the plug, replace the crush washer on cars that > require this (seems only Japanese and Korean cars) and install the plug. > ...I considered that for my Sonata, but the issue isn't the drain plug, > other than the need to replace the crush washer at every change... I don't know why the mfgrs. are so chincy with good oil plugs and washers, and the washers in the auto parts stores are either extremely hard fiber board so as to have no compliance, and they therefore leak and tempt idiots to overtighten the plug/strip the pan thread, or are some really soft, cheap plastic that absolutely *have* to be replaced every time and they charge a ridiculous price for those - what a racket! They do have the kind of plug with a so-so rubber gasket molded around the OD of the plug head, but it is not controlled crush, and lasts only a few oil changes before needing the plug and gasket replaced (gasket bonded to the head). The absolute best plug/washer combination is the plug with a groove machined into the land area of the plug head into which you place a standard o-ring - a fraction of the o-ring cross-section sticks up a few tens of thousandths of an inch above the land area. This gives a perfect *many-times* re-useable, idiot-proof (unless the idiot decides to loose the o-ring), controlled crush gasket - and if the 10¢ o-ring ever does wear out, you just pull one out of the bag of extras you keep in your tool box. Most Chryslers take a plug with M14-1.5 thread - some years of Hondas do too, and theirs has this o-ring-in-the-groove type gasket - that's what I use on my Concorde. It's a rare occassion when one of those leaks. The second best type of plug/gasket is similar to the o-ring one, except the o-ring is essentially molded into the groove - very seldom leak, re-useable, but when they wear out, you replace the whole plug. The adavantage of those is that the idiot can't loose the gasket, and it is almost guaranteed not to leak (he can strip the threads, but he'll do that with any type plug/gasket no matter what). Some Fords (and maybe GM's) come with those when new, but when you order replacement plugs thru the dealer, they are the typical parts-store quality plug and non-controlled crush gasket. Grrr! Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') >> ...I then wipe around the drain hole, clean the plug, replace the >> crush washer on cars that require this (seems only Japanese and Korean [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > thru the dealer, they are the typical parts-store quality plug and > non-controlled crush gasket. Grrr! Hi... Let me add to your pondering... How in the world does the wind know I'm changing oil in the driveway? And even more astonishing, how does it know the precise minute to gust, and in which direction to gust to get the last thin trickles exactly in my face? :) Take care. Ken >> ...I then wipe around the drain hole, clean the plug, replace the >> crush washer on cars that require this (seems only Japanese and Korean [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > a few oil changes before needing the plug and gasket replaced (gasket > bonded to the head). My Caravan has a plug with a rubber gasket built in and it works great. My Chevy truck has a washer that appears to be aluminum, but I don't remember ever seeing a recommendation to replace it and so far it has survived 18+ oil changes as it has 92,000 miles on it. > The absolute best plug/washer combination is the plug with a groove > machined into the land area of the plug head into which you place a [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > ever does wear out, you just pull one out of the bag of extras you keep > in your tool box. Yes, my minivan is sort of like this, but I don't think the rubber gasket is replaceable, but then I haven't tried to replace it either. > Most Chryslers take a plug with M14-1.5 thread - some years of Hondas do > too, and theirs has this o-ring-in-the-groove type gasket - that's what > I use on my Concorde. It's a rare occassion when one of those leaks. The only Honda I owned was an 84 Accord and it used aluminum washers like my Hyundai and called for replacement at each oil change. > The second best type of plug/gasket is similar to the o-ring one, except > the o-ring is essentially molded into the groove - very seldom leak, [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > thru the dealer, they are the typical parts-store quality plug and > non-controlled crush gasket. Grrr! This sounds like what my 03 Carvan uses. So far it has worked great. Matt Ted wrote: <You just haven't changed them enough to have the experience to <do it quickly and cleanly. Like I said, I can do it in a white cotton <shirt and you can't tell I've done it. I've done it often enough in my <vehicles that I know exactly where to put my arms so the used oil <from the filter doesen't come cascading down my arms, and I use <a big drip pan that catches everything, and I don't let the drain <plug drop into the pan so I'm fishing around in used oil for it, etc. <etc. And I only use a single rag. 60,000 a year, 3000 between changes is 20 changes a year. I've changed my own for the last 34 years, so I'd have to say I've had enough practice. Some are less messy than others. (Cars and people :-) ) <Shucks/Checkers loves to put oil on sale with their little coupons <in the paper and the rebates, for the last 7 years I've never spent <more than a dollar a quart on name brand dino oil. The nearest Checkers to me is right at 280 miles. I could buy oil at Walmart, but as I said above, I don't buy anything from them. Could also get it cheaper at Autozone than where I buy, but I also don't do business with them. I've been dealing with the same parts place (and same counter guy) for 28 years. They bring parts to my house if they don't have them in stock. Haven't had to pay for a battery in years....A good parts store with a good parts man is priceless, even if their oil is $2 a quart for the name brands. <There is absolutely no one reputable that would tell you to NOT <check your oil LEVEL every 3000 miles, but wait longer. Absolutely agreed. I've never had anyone suggest that as far as I can remember. If your vehicles don't leak oil (which I won't tolerate) and don't use an inordinate amount, then there is no need to check it every fill-up, either. If it's not leaking and it's not burning, then it's still in there! Mine gets checked every 2-3 weeks I'd say ... especially the ones that I don't drive myself. One other tip for those with side terminal batteries... The oil change is a good time to make sure those pesky little side terminals are still tight. They tend to loosen with time and create all sorts of unpleasantries. > Ted wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > my own for the last 34 years, so I'd have to say I've had enough > practice. Some are less messy than others. (Cars and people :-) ) If I drove 60,000 miles a year, I'd never change at 3,000 mile intervals. Driving at that pace (even if this mileage is spread over 3 cars), you can easily run 5,000 and probably could go 10,000. I change at 5,000 on my vehicles that are under warranty and then typically go to 10,000 mile intervals after they have 100,000 miles or so. I use Mobil 1 and have never had a problem with this. My last minivan had 178,000 miles and was running strong with a drunk driver took it out a few months ago. > <Shucks/Checkers loves to put oil on sale with their little coupons <in > the paper and the rebates, for the last 7 years I've never spent <more [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > years....A good parts store with a good parts man is priceless, even if > their oil is $2 a quart for the name brands. I agree. I do buy my Mobil 1 at Wal-Mart given the cost, but I buy filters and any other real parts elsewhere, often at NAPA. Matt > hello to all . > does anyone know who makes it? It's made in China, out of the fat rendered off political prisoners and 6-year-old factory workers. > > hello to all . > > does anyone know who makes it? > > It's made in China, out of the fat rendered off political prisoners and > 6-year-old factory workers. Documentation??? s.v.p. ;-) wow getting a answer is like getting your teeth pulled by a bunch of clowns!!! thanks!! just asking question, not asking for a toung lashing >> hello to all . >> does anyone know who makes it? > > It's made in China, out of the fat rendered off political prisoners and > 6-year-old factory workers. >>> does anyone know who makes it? >> It's made in China, out of the fat rendered off political prisoners and >> 6-year-old factory workers. > wow Yeah...wow, eh? > getting a answer is like getting your teeth pulled by a bunch of > clowns!!! Giving "a" answer is all in a day's work, ma'am. > thanks!! You're welcome. > just asking question And omitting singular indefinite articles... > not asking for a toung lashing Not asking for a *which*, now? What are you, eight? Nine? > hello to all . > does anyone know who makes it ? i heard castrol does. If there were a Wal-mart restaurant I wouldn't drink the "house" wine, so I wouldn't use the "house" oil in my car either! SignatureThe home of New Yorks #1 jamband!! http://rocksfromthegarden.tripod.com/ Download some studio cuts from thier new CD "Making Love" http://db.etree.org/lookup_show.php?shows_key=272814 Join the group message board! http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/RFTGMB/ BnPs,trades,freebies and strangers stopping strangersjust to shake thier hand! > > hello to all . > > does anyone know who makes it ? i heard castrol does. > > If there were a Wal-mart restaurant I wouldn't drink the "house" wine, > so I wouldn't use the "house" oil in my car either! What is your point? There is NO restaurant licensed at any USA Wal-Mart :-) Your comment makes absolutely no sense. Correct my impression of your statement - IF you can. Are you saying you don't change any oil in your "non-existant" vehicle? >> > hello to all . >> > does anyone know who makes it ? i heard castrol does. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >statement - IF you can. Are you saying you don't change any oil in your >"non-existant" vehicle? Humm, I gues you don't understand the original poster's use of allegory? In any event, Walmart does have lunch counter/restaurants in all the stores around me, but then that's hardly the point. Doug >>>>hello to all . >>>>does anyone know who makes it ? i heard castrol does. [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > Doug Reminds me of the comedian I heard recently that said that 7-11's are now selling fine wines, and he was having trouble deciding whether he should get a red or a white to go with his burrito. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') >>>>hello to all . >>>>does anyone know who makes it ? i heard castrol does. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > Humm, I gues you don't understand the original poster's use of > allegory? I think there was sarcasm used by all posters involved ;-) Me, I'd pull out my favorite Southern dining recommendation. "Don't order shrimp at the Waffle House." :D If you want oil, buy it branded by a company that MAKES oil. > hello to all . > does anyone know who makes it ? i heard castrol does. > also i can rember helping grandpa as a kid and all he did was change the > filter and add a quart. lol my how times have changed.waite does anyone > still do this ? SKU It does not matter who "makes it." It is what is in it that counts. Once a large home improvement chain in NYS sold a house brand they got from Mobil. It was base oil, but marked as SE 10W-40. It contained no viscosity improvers, pour or anti-friction additives. Even with the truth disclosed it took some effort to get them to pull the cans and not merely ship them out of state, but who knows, I'm sure Mobil did not want that crap back. Richard. > It does not matter who "makes it." It is what is in it that counts. Once a > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > of state, but who knows, I'm sure Mobil did not want that crap back. Then that is Mobil's fault, not the home improvement store! The oil supplier is responsible for the contents and labeling, so this scenario doesn't happen! Sounds like a far fetched story. > Then that is Mobil's fault, not the home improvement store! The oil > supplier > is responsible for the contents and labeling, so this scenario doesn't > happen! Sounds like a far fetched story. Not far fetched. You could FOIL the file from the state agency. The chain purchased base oil from a third party jobber for a very low price. The jobber purchased bass oil in bulk from Mobil and had it packaged and labeled in quart sized cans. They were able to sell it cheep because it was just basic stock oil that cost them about 8 cents a can of product. We were able to get it pulled from the market because it did not accurately state the source of the product, a requirement of our state's weights and measures law. At the time there were not state regulations on oil quality. Richard. Know this proves it is bogus. Mobil does not sell bulk oil to independants. Mobil packages it's own oil, and not to others to re-package. > > hello to all . > > does anyone know who makes it ? i heard castrol does. > > also i can rember helping grandpa as a kid and all he did was change the > > filter and add a quart. lol my how times have changed.waite does anyone > > still do this ? SKU Most products from "low end" Walmart are manufactured to sell at a low price point, not necessarily at a quality level. Using any generic product is not in my program, whether it is car oil or food. Buyer beware! >> > hello to all . >> > does anyone know who makes it ? i heard castrol does. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > >Buyer beware! I have been using generic oil since the 70's and specifically Walmart for the past 10 years or so. It is good stuff. It meets all the government standards. Call me stupid but I trust our government for some things. Oil is one of them.It does not matter what company makes the oil, it matters what spec the oil is made to. The spec is controlled by Walmart and it is made to government specs. I had two cars go over 200K. No major problems. >>>>hello to all . >>>>does anyone know who makes it ? i heard castrol does. [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > controlled by Walmart and it is made to government specs. I had two > cars go over 200K. No major problems. I didn't realize that either API or SAE were government organizations. When did this happen? Matt > >> > hello to all . > >> > does anyone know who makes it ? i heard castrol does. [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > controlled by Walmart and it is made to government specs. I had two > cars go over 200K. No major problems. A few years ago I bought two pairs of Walmart's high end men's shorts. The government must not have inspected them, as they shrunk very quickly. <:) >>> > hello to all . >>> > does anyone know who makes it ? i heard castrol does. [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > government standards. Call me stupid but I trust our government for > some things. API is not really part of the government. >>>>>hello to all . >>>>>does anyone know who makes it ? i heard castrol does. [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > API is not really part of the government. Not is SAE for viscosity, so I guess we should call him stupid as he requested. :-) Matt >>>>hello to all . >>>>does anyone know who makes it ? i heard castrol does. [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > controlled by Walmart and it is made to government specs. I had two > cars go over 200K. No major problems. The government isn't even aware that motor oil exists, at least not beyond requiring manufacturers to have MSD sheets for it and making sure that it doesn't get dumped in groundwater. The performance standards and verification measurements for lubricants are set by professional organizations including the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) and the American Petroleum Institute (API). The API does derive some of its requirements indirectly from government, but usually that's in a negative sense. For example, the latest API standard for gasoline engine lubricants sets a MAXIMUM for certain additives because although oil performs better with more of these additives, they damage pollution control devices such as O2 sensors and catalytic convertors over time as the engine consumes small amounts of oil. So indirectly, the EPA emissions requirements do affect the API standards. But not in the way you seem to think. If I recall, Ashland Oil bottles the Wally World Motor oil. Last time I checked, WM's 100% synthetic was made by Quaker State, part of the worldwide BP conglomerate. At slightly over two bucks a quart (in gallon jugs) you can't beat it with a stick. Rick > If I recall, Ashland Oil bottles the Wally World Motor oil. > > ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- > http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups > ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
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