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Car Forum / Chrysler Cars / December 2006Replacing rear brake lines - rusted thru
help. I can get a wrench on the brake line fittings at the ABS until I remove the ABS bracket around it. But, I can't see how that bracket is bolts up. Can anyone explain how this bracket comes off? thank you in advance for your help. > help. I can't get a wrench on the brake line fittings at the ABS until I > remove the ABS bracket around it. But, I can't see how this bracket is > bolts up. > Can anyone explain how this bracket comes off? > thank you in advance for your help. > help. I can get a wrench on the brake line fittings at the ABS until I > remove the ABS bracket around it. But, I can't see how that bracket is > bolts up. > Can anyone explain how this bracket comes off? > thank you in advance for your help. You might want to consider adding a little info.  SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > > help. I can get a wrench on the brake line fittings at the ABS until I > > remove the ABS bracket around it. But, I can't see how that bracket is [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > You might want to consider adding a little info. > > help. I can get a wrench on the brake line fittings at the ABS until I > > remove the ABS bracket around it. But, I can't see how that bracket is [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > -- > Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com First, Thank you for the come back. My van is a 1997 Plymouth Voyager with over 120,000 miles. Mechanically, it has been very reliable. Externally, its appearance is not good... has been beaten up... door dents by other cars doors and bumpers... but no rust. So, I'm at the cross road of junking it or fixing the brake problem. One day the brake pedal went right to the floor but slowly. Fortunately, this happened in the driveway. After a careful look, it turned out the brake line rusted thru where a piece of flex line (about 4-5 inches) is pressed on. My guess it was designed this way to absorb the vibrations of the ABS. >From calling the dealers, there is no kit to replace just this flex line section. In other words, the complete line (from the ABS to the rear axle) needs to be replaced. I can't afford the dealer's estimate. So, I want to do it myself. The problem is to determine if I can do this myself. If I can remove the bracket that surrounds around the ABS, I can get at the fittings to replace the brake line. But, I can't see how this bracket comes off. > > > help. I can get a wrench on the brake line fittings at the ABS until I > > > remove the ABS bracket around it. But, I can't see how that bracket is [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > the bracket that surrounds around the ABS, I can get at the fittings to > replace the brake line. But, I can't see how this bracket comes off. The fuel tank has to be lowered to install this line. The line goes from the hydraulic assembly to the rear axle. You buy the complete line. Then you will need to have a scan tool connected to bleed the hydraulic system. Im just curious, was this vehicle ever undercoated or rust proofed? Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech > > > > help. I can get a wrench on the brake line fittings at the ABS until > I [quoted text clipped - 39 lines] > Glenn Beasley > Chrysler Tech No undercoat... original from the factory. Glenn, I had the same curiousity. Here's my guess - since the flex line metal and the steel line metal were different, osmosis occurred when the lines were wet. Over time then, it weaken, i.e. rusted, the area where the two are pressed on together. The rest of the steel line looks good... no rust. Question 1. What is the scan tool you mentioned. Can I buy it at the auto supply store and how much do you think it will cost? Question 2. Is there something else I have to remove in order to remove the ABS bracket? TIA, George I have no idea what bracket you are referring to, the line unscrews from the hydraulic system. and at the back of the vehicle. The scan tool we use cost about $2400.00. It is needed to bleed the hydraulic system by actuating the valves and pump at the same time, without doing this your pedal would go to the floor. It has been awhile since I had done one of these but the ones that I did do were rusted out because the aftermarket rust/soundproofing trapped the water at the flex part of the line and rusted it out. There are 2 lines next to each other, you may want to have both of them replaced if signs of rust are on the other one. Just a thought Glenn > I have no idea what bracket you are referring to, the line unscrews from > the hydraulic system. and at the back of the vehicle. The scan tool we use [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Glenn Glenn, after thinking about what you say, I'm gonna get estimates from shops and dealer. What do you feel is a good estimate? > > I have no idea what bracket you are referring to, the line unscrews from > > the hydraulic system. and at the back of the vehicle. The scan tool we use [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > shops and dealer. What do you feel is a good estimate? > \ Rough est. about 3.0 labor > > > I have no idea what bracket you are referring to, the line unscrews from > > > the hydraulic system. and at the back of the vehicle. The scan tool we [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > \ > Rough est. about 3.0 labor Thanks to all for your feedback. George - wishing you a happy new year! In article <1167260027.359404.73190@n51g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>, > help. I can get a wrench on the brake line fittings at the ABS until I > remove the ABS bracket around it. But, I can't see how that bracket is > bolts up. > Can anyone explain how this bracket comes off? > thank you in advance for your help. You probably shouldn't be messing around with the brakes on that thing. |
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