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Car Forum / Chrysler Cars / January 2007Clunking noise in front suspension
I have a 2001 GC with 70,000 miles and when I turn into my driveway I get this clunking noise. I have replaced the sway bar links but this made no difference. The tie rod ends are not loose. It does not wander on the road like it has loose ball joints. I would like to get rid of this noise though. i'd say you need to check your lower ball joints with 70.000 on it it's time to replace them if know won has ever replaced them...good luck...  SignatureScrapper http://www.automotiveforums.com > I have a 2001 GC with 70,000 miles and when I turn into my driveway I get > this clunking noise. I have replaced the sway bar links but this made no > difference. The tie rod ends are not loose. It does not wander on the road > like it has loose ball joints. I would like to get rid of this noise though. There are two sway bar bushings that do wear out that will make that noise. They are two rubber blocks that attach the sway bar to the engine cradle - inexpensive, dealer or aftermarket. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') yes i agree 2 the block bushings..and there is stablilizer links and bushings also.. SignatureScrapper http://www.automotiveforums.com > yes i agree 2 the block bushings..and there is stablilizer links and > bushings also.. He already said he replaced the end links. Not sure if that vehicle has the ball joint type end links (like the LH cars) or the more traditional rod and bushing type - but in any case, he indicated he already did those. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') Bill They have the ball joint type links. NAPA has avery good replacement (they call it the premium) part. It has hex hold points and grease fittings and is much beefier than the oem ones. They also have bushings that imo are much better than oem >> yes i agree 2 the block bushings..and there is stablilizer links and >> bushings also.. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address > with the letter 'x') > Bill > They have the ball joint type links. NAPA has avery good replacement (they > call it the premium) part. It has hex hold points and grease fittings and is > much beefier than the oem ones... TRW/Moog makes both parts. They are now the same company, but both parts are still made and shipped under the same part number interchangeably. I order two of the same part for my Concorde and got one of each under the same part number - boxes were identical except one said "Made in Mexico", the other "Made in USA". The Moog one is the one with the zerk fitting - part of Moog's "Problem Solver" line. They also have bushings that imo are much > better than oem You mean like the ones I show here?: http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8081&start=0 Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') I used NAPA sway bar links when I replaced the links. I bought this Van new and it has never been wrecked. I don't want to drop this crossmember reinforcement piece but will if I have too. I do have the FSM. I always buy one when I buy a new vehicle. I have looked at the sway bar bushings without taking anything apart. They look OK but, I know that is not a very good way to inspect these bushings. I was hoping this was a common problem and someone would have a good idea on this one. >> Bill >> They have the ball joint type links. NAPA has avery good replacement [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address > with the letter 'x') What do you mean drop the reinforcement? There is no need for it to do bushings. >I used NAPA sway bar links when I replaced the links. I bought this Van new >and it has never been wrecked. I don't want to drop this crossmember [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] >> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my >> address with the letter 'x') > >I used NAPA sway bar links when I replaced the links. I bought this Van new > >and it has never been wrecked. I don't want to drop this crossmember [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > >good way to inspect these bushings. I was hoping this was a common problem > >and someone would have a good idea on this one. The bushings can be checked without disassembly: pick up one side of the car and try to "steer" the tire. If it moves, the bushings are bad. Removing the reinforcement (I presume you mean the one going between the strut towers?) is no big deal, and is the difference between the bushing reinforcement being an easy afternoon and being impossible. SignatureJoseph J. Pfeiffer, Jr., Ph.D. Phone -- (505) 646-1605 Department of Computer Science FAX -- (505) 646-1002 New Mexico State University http://www.cs.nmsu.edu/~pfeiffer >>>I used NAPA sway bar links when I replaced the links. I bought this Van new >>>and it has never been wrecked. I don't want to drop this crossmember [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > the car and try to "steer" the tire. If it moves, the bushings are > bad. I don't think that tells you anything about the sway bar bushings. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') > >>> I used NAPA sway bar links when I replaced the links. I bought > >>> this Van new and it has never been wrecked. I don't want to drop [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > I don't think that tells you anything about the sway bar bushings. You are correct. I read too quickly, and my whole response was based on steering rack bushings. Never mind.... SignatureJoseph J. Pfeiffer, Jr., Ph.D. Phone -- (505) 646-1605 Department of Computer Science FAX -- (505) 646-1002 New Mexico State University http://www.cs.nmsu.edu/~pfeiffer I appreciate you guys thinking about this but I guess I am going to live with it until the weather gets a little better. When I pull into the garage the road ice starts dripping and it kinds of kills your enthusiasm to do much investigating. We have two more of these vans at work and the Dodge dealer has put new steering racks in both of them as well as some other parts and they still make this clunking noise. Thanks for your suggestions though! >> >>> I used NAPA sway bar links when I replaced the links. I bought >> >>> this Van new and it has never been wrecked. I don't want to drop [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > You are correct. I read too quickly, and my whole response was based > on steering rack bushings. Never mind.... the bushing's wear in such a way that appear to be ok but are wearing in a eggshaped fashion allowing the swaybar to move up and down within the bushingsand a klunk/knock noise results > I used NAPA sway bar links when I replaced the links. I bought this Van new > and it has never been wrecked. I don't want to drop this crossmember [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address > > with the letter 'x') I am going to replace these sway bar bushings next. I read that you can get several different types of material to do this with. I am not going to go back with the factory stuff. Should I buy from NAPA, Advance or AutoZone? Thanks, the bushing's wear in such a way that appear to be ok but are wearing in a eggshaped fashion allowing the swaybar to move up and down within the bushingsand a klunk/knock noise results George Rhude wrote: I used NAPA sway bar links when I replaced the links. I bought this Van new and it has never been wrecked. I don't want to drop this crossmember reinforcement piece but will if I have too. I do have the FSM. I always buy one when I buy a new vehicle. I have looked at the sway bar bushings without taking anything apart. They look OK but, I know that is not a very good way to inspect these bushings. I was hoping this was a common problem and someone would have a good idea on this one. "Bill Putney" <bptn@kinez.net> wrote in message news:51kgjpF1kt10kU2@mid.individual.net... > jdoe wrote: >> Bill >> They have the ball joint type links. NAPA has avery good replacement >> (they call it the premium) part. It has hex hold points and grease >> fittings and is much beefier than the oem ones... > > TRW/Moog makes both parts. They are now the same company, but both parts > are still made and shipped under the same part number interchangeably. I > order two of the same part for my Concorde and got one of each under the > same part number - boxes were identical except one said "Made in Mexico", > the other "Made in USA". The Moog one is the one with the zerk fitting - > part of Moog's "Problem Solver" line. > > They also have bushings that imo are much >> better than oem > > You mean like the ones I show here?: > http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8081&start=0 > > Bill Putney > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address > with the letter 'x') > I am going to replace these sway bar bushings next. I read that you can > get several different types of material to do this with. I am not going > to go back with the factory stuff. Should I buy from NAPA, Advance or > AutoZone? Thanks, I don't know this for sure, but I think all the aftermarket parts stroes stock the same brand - the name molded into the ones I got at Advance (shown in the link I posted earlier: http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8081&start=0) is "RAMCOA"(I don't remember if the box is labeled with that name or if they are boxed under some name brand like, i.e., TRW, etc.) Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') what ever u want i favor the urethane myself but i also use silglide lube on the bushing's so they don't wear as fast > I am going to replace these sway bar bushings next. I read that you > can get several different types of material to do this with. I am not [quoted text clipped - 53 lines] > > alphabet in my address > > > with the letter 'x') I replaced these sway bar bushings Saturday morning with bushings I bought from Advance Auto, "TRW HB1783". I took the factory bushings out and they looked to be in good shape. I put the new bushings in and it fixed this clunking noise when you drove on a bumpy road. I did grease the bushings with high temp grease. At times things that look good are not. what ever u want i favor the urethane myself but i also use silglide lube on the bushing's so they don't wear as fast George Rhude wrote: I am going to replace these sway bar bushings next. I read that you can get several different types of material to do this with. I am not going to go back with the factory stuff. Should I buy from NAPA, Advance or AutoZone? Thanks, "philthy" <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message news:45B7F5E9.A2F229F1@cac.net...the bushing's wear in such a way that appear to be ok but are wearing in a eggshaped fashion allowing the swaybar to move up and down within the bushingsand a klunk/knock noise results George Rhude wrote: I used NAPA sway bar links when I replaced the links. I bought this Van new and it has never been wrecked. I don't want to drop this crossmember reinforcement piece but will if I have too. I do have the FSM. I always buy one when I buy a new vehicle. I have looked at the sway bar bushings without taking anything apart. They look OK but, I know that is not a very good way to inspect these bushings. I was hoping this was a common problem and someone would have a good idea on this one. "Bill Putney" <bptn@kinez.net> wrote in message news:51kgjpF1kt10kU2@mid.individual.net... > jdoe wrote: >> Bill >> They have the ball joint type links. NAPA has avery good replacement >> (they call it the premium) part. It has hex hold points and grease >> fittings and is much beefier than the oem ones... > > TRW/Moog makes both parts. They are now the same company, but both parts > are still made and shipped under the same part number interchangeably. I > order two of the same part for my Concorde and got one of each under the > same part number - boxes were identical except one said "Made in Mexico", > the other "Made in USA". The Moog one is the one with the zerk fitting - > part of Moog's "Problem Solver" line. > > They also have bushings that imo are much >> better than oem > > You mean like the ones I show here?: > http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8081&start=0 > > Bill Putney > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address > with the letter 'x') > I replaced these sway bar bushings Saturday morning with bushings I > bought from Advance Auto, "TRW HB1783". I took the factory bushings out > and they looked to be in good shape. I put the new bushings in and it > fixed this clunking noise when you drove on a bumpy road. I did grease > the bushings with high temp grease. At times things that look good are not. What happens is that, as the two front wheels get tossed up and down relative to each other, each side of the sway bar gets pressed hard either upward or downward against its bushing - creating a temporary gap between the sway bar and the bushing on the other side of the bushing hole. Then the direction of the force on the sway bar rapidly changes direction and the gap closes and the sway bar slams against that side of the hole in the bushing - the clunk noise is created and reverberates thru the frame. When the sway bar is not under stress, there are no gaps - even after it is worn out, the diameter of the bushing hole is still (unless *really* *badly* worn out) slightly smaller than the diameter of the sway bar, and you can't create enough force with your hand to create any gaps. So the bushing looks fine to you. When it was new, the bushing hole diameter was smaller, creating a lot more pre-load (pressure) against the sway bar diameter, so the gaps didn't occur under load. It's the ten-times-greater forces than you can create with your hand that creates the gaps and slams the sway bar against the sides of the bushing hole that makes the clunking noise with a bushing that, with no load, is in contact all around the sway bar (i.e., a bushing that looks fine). Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') Yeah except the NAPA ones are light blue. I do think they are a little "harder" as the cornering seems firmed up on every van I used them on. >> Bill >> They have the ball joint type links. NAPA has avery good replacement [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address > with the letter 'x') > Yeah except the NAPA ones are light blue. I do think they are a little > "harder" as the cornering seems firmed up on every van I used them on. Well yes and no - they ("RAMCOA") use different color material in the bushing parts for the different sizes (to fit different size sway bars) - I'm guessing to help them visually distinguish and avoid parts mix ups in their plants. This red/blue thing came up later (on page 2) in that 300M Club thread that I linked. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') |
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