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Car Forum / Chrysler Cars / September 200749 Chrysler with no compression
I recently pulled my uncle's 1949 chrysler Royal out of storage. It was sitting for 27 years in the garage... anyway, aside from the wiring being totally useless and in need of replacement, the only problem i have is the engine has no compression. I have put marvel mystery, motor oil, even a little gear oil down the cylinders, but no return of the compression. This has the flathead "spitfire" 6 cylinder engine. It spins over freely... way too freely. Anyone have a method i might not have considered? I'm willing to try a lot of things before i pull the engine from the car... i'm hoping to at least get it running before I have to do that. The thing only has 92,000 original miles on it. ... ?anyway, aside from the > wiring being totally useless and in need of replacement, the only > problem i have is the engine has no compression. I have put marvel > mystery, motor oil, even a little gear oil down the cylinders, but no > return of the compression. NZA I had a 29 6 cylinder Chrysler like this. After determining that the oil pump was indeed pumping oil I took it out on a country road and gave it a long push. It did eventually start but burned oil like crazy for a long time. But I solved that problem too. Also maybe the timing chain is broken or skipping a lot. As for the wiring. There are places that will make you a new wiring harness. And if you do this strongly consider converting to 12 volts. Bob AZ > ... ?anyway, aside from the > [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > Bob AZ Well, I reckon if i'm going to try the push-start method, i need to make the brakes work again first.. LOL I ordered a new harness already. I decided to stick with 6 volts for now. That decision was made mainly because i already purchased an 8 volt battery to try it out (the regulator was 'turned up' to 8 volts years ago). From what i've been reading on the internet, the bigger wiring of the 6v harness will accomodate 12 volts easily, should i decide to go that route in the future. > Well, I reckon if i'm going to try the push-start method, i need to > make the brakes work again first.. LOL SISSY!! :) Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') > > Well, I reckon if i'm going to try the push-start method, i need to > > make the brakes work again first.. LOL > > SISSY!! :) LOL ! Hey, i just thought of something... this car has the Fluid Drive tranny, so do you think it will push start at all ? > > > Well, I reckon if i'm going to try the push-start method, i need to > > > make the brakes work again first.. LOL [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Hey, i just thought of something... this car has the Fluid Drive > tranny, so do you think it will push start at all ? Yes, I have done that with my 49 Windsor and 40 Royal. FluidDrive came in two different varieties, a regular 3 speed transmission with fluid drive, and the M4/M6 dual range fluid drive.  Signature"What do you mean there's no movie?" On Jul 29, 9:15 pm, <CountFl...@MonsterChillerHorrorTheater.com> wrote: > Yes, I have done that with my 49 Windsor and 40 Royal. FluidDrive > came in two different varieties, a regular 3 speed transmission with > fluid drive, and the M4/M6 dual range fluid drive. ok! I'm pretty sure this one just has the 3-speed w/ fluid drive. > On Jul 29, 9:15 pm, <CountFl...@MonsterChillerHorrorTheater.com> > wrote: [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > ok! I'm pretty sure this one just has the 3-speed w/ fluid drive. Actually, I was reading about the "tip-toe" transmission and how to shift it.. I think this car may have that dual range thingee after all instead of the 3 speed.. Drained the coolant today... i pulled out the thermostat and put it in a pot of 180 degree water and it opened... did it a few times and it opened more and more until a certain point.. was wondering though if the thermostat is supposed to close all the way... i'm assuming it is. When cooled off, this one is not all the way closed. > > On Jul 29, 9:15 pm, <CountFl...@MonsterChillerHorrorTheater.com> > > wrote: [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > the thermostat is supposed to close all the way... i'm assuming it > is. When cooled off, this one is not all the way closed. The Chrysler, DeSoto and Dodge had the M6, PrestoMatic, TipToe shift, four speed, dual range Fluid Drive. The "second" gear position is Low/Low-High and the "third" gear position is High/Low-High/High. Almost all of the time you will use the High range. Shifting is accomplished by slightly lifting your foot off the accelerator at about 15 or so, hearing a clunk, then pressing on the gas again. You only need to use the clutch for reverse and starting, although you can start the car in gear. There is a fill port on the passenger side of the transmission whereby you remove the plug from the torque converter to check the fluid, which is really 10 weight oil. Draining and refilling requires turning the converter with the plug downward and letting the oil drain, then reversing the procedure. All in all, the transmission is very good. Make sure that the electrical connections to the carb are good and that the solenoid and governor on the transmission case are operating. As to the thermostat, it should be a 160 degree opening with a non-pressurized system. I have had no problems with my 49 Windsor or my 40 Royal. Signature"What do you mean there's no movie?" On Aug 2, 7:48 am, <CountFl...@MonsterChillerHorrorTheater.com> wrote: > > > On Jul 29, 9:15 pm, <CountFl...@MonsterChillerHorrorTheater.com> > > > wrote: [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > non-pressurized system. I have had no problems with my 49 Windsor or > my 40 Royal. As always, thanks for the information! I'm flying blind on this one, pretty much.. except for you guys and a 1957 version of the Motor's manual.. So basically there are only four positions for the gear selector... reverse, neutral, high-range, low-range... If I understand correctly, most of the time i'll just slap it into high range and leave it there and use the high and low for around town-type stuff.. The thermostat has a "180" stamped into the end of the plunger. I verified the temp. of the water when the thermostat opened with a digital thermometer.... but like i said, it still doesn't close all the way. So, i'll probably need a new one. Someone at some point put a 4 psi rad. cap on it, so i guess i'll need to change that as well. Okay, here's a question i've been wanting to ask for a while, but kept forgetting.. My battery charger is either 12V or 6V... so what should i use to charge the 8V battery? Was thinking I need to put some sort of resistor in-line with it to drop the voltage and set the charger on 12V.. don't want to start a fire though, so suggestions will gladly be accepted. Thanks in advance! > Okay, here's a question i've been wanting to ask for a while, but kept > forgetting.. My battery charger is either 12V or 6V... so what should [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Thanks in advance! A resistor of the right value could work - just make sure it can handle the heat (worst-case amperage of your charger x the voltgage drop across it). However - I might be more inclined to use several power diodes in series instead because they tend to give a more constant, less current-dependent, voltage drop. Experiment a little. Measure the charger's voltage output charging a 12 volt battery, then try different numbers of diodes in series (assume somewhere in the neighborhood of 0.6 to 1.1 volt drop per diode) on the 8 volt battery to see what gives you close to a 4 volt total drop (or a reasonable charging current - 10 amps or less at start of charge). Again, consider the power (actually, in this case, current) rating of the diodes - probably use a stud-mounted rectifier from Radio Shack - probably will be dissipating 7 to 10 watts each - might need to heat sink them. Other possibilities: Do you have a variable power supply with current meter on the front panel? Adjust the voltage output for a reasonable current (again, 10 amps or less initially) into the battery (monitor it and adjust as necessary as the charge progresses). Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') > On Aug 2, 7:48 am, <CountFl...@MonsterChillerHorrorTheater.com> wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 50 lines] > the way. So, i'll probably need a new one. Someone at some point put > a 4 psi rad. cap on it, so i guess i'll need to change that as well. I think 4 PSI caps were fairly common in that era, that's what I've always had on my '49 Plymouth. However, after blowing a freeze plug a couple of times I started running it unpressurized with no problems whatsoever. You will need a 160 degree thermostat to run unpressurized, though, you'll likely have a problem with "burping" coolant if you run that 180 degree stat. >On Aug 2, 7:48 am, <CountFl...@MonsterChillerHorrorTheater.com> wrote: >> > > On Jul 29, 9:15 pm, <CountFl...@MonsterChillerHorrorTheater.com> [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > >Thanks in advance! I charge my 8v battery with the 6v charger. This works very well with my 47 Windsor. The starter cranks fast and the lights are bright. > >On Aug 2, 7:48 am, <CountFl...@MonsterChillerHorrorTheater.com> wrote: > >> > > On Jul 29, 9:15 pm, <CountFl...@MonsterChillerHorrorTheater.com> [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > -- > Message posted via CarKB.comhttp://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/chrysler/200708/1 I found this out as well a few days ago.. i just tried setting it on 6v, then checked with the meter and it read 8.5v .. doesn't charge it quickly, but it does charge it. >> > On Jul 29, 9:15 pm, <CountFl...@MonsterChillerHorrorTheater.com> >> > wrote: [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > non-pressurized system. I have had no problems with my 49 Windsor or > my 40 Royal. I always wanted to drive one of those cars. Sounds interesting. > I always wanted to drive one of those cars. Sounds interesting. i got to ride in it one time, when i was five. what a great time! I am just dying to get the thing running already, but i have been so busy and haven't had time to do much to it.. BTW - update.. I removed the thermostat housing, as i said in an earlier post. So I filled the water jacket with water again and stuck my coffee-cup heating element in there... cranked the car after heating the water jacket to 140 and sprayed a little ether in there while cranking... *POOF* it backfired through the carb.. probably hosed it up with my luck! Hey, I forgot to show you guys the car... Here's what it looked like after a preliminary washing.. http://a811.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/23/l_55c900b80ce7ef8593eba20bcc25d 08a.jpg >Hey, I forgot to show you guys the car... > >Here's what it looked like after a preliminary washing.. > >http://a811.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/23/l_55c900b80ce7ef8593eba20bcc25d 08a.jpg VERY COOL. You will have a lot of fun getting it back on the road again. Steve B. > Hey, I forgot to show you guys the car... > > Here's what it looked like after a preliminary washing.. > > http://a811.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/23/l_55c900b80ce7ef8593eba20bcc25d 08a.jpg WOW! That's definitely a keeper, even if you have to start from scratch on the engine. FWIW, all the wear parts for Chrysler flatheads are still readily available. Not as common as big-block V8s, but available. > Hey, I forgot to show you guys the car... > > Here's what it looked like after a preliminary washing.. > > http://a811.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/23/l_55c900b80ce7ef8593eba20bcc25d 08a.jpg Is that the coupe? Which model: Royal, Windsor/Deluxe? Mine is the 4 door sedan, Windsor. My 40 Royal is the coupe version. Looks like the chrome is in good shape and you have the hard to find chrome side spears. Also, the tail lamp housings/lenses are hard to find for this year car. They were only produced from about March 49 to September, known as the second series 49's, the first series were carryovers on the 46-48's. Signature"What do you mean there's no movie?" On Aug 6, 3:09 pm, <CountFl...@MonsterChillerHorrorTheater.com> wrote: > Is that the coupe? Which model: Royal, Windsor/Deluxe? > Mine is the 4 door sedan, Windsor. My 40 Royal is the coupe version. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > to September, known as the second series 49's, the first series were > carryovers on the 46-48's. It's a Royal Coupe. I will take some more pictures of the car later when it is not 100 degrees and 110 percent humidity outside.. argh.. damn that global warming... LOL ... I have an idea -- we should change the season name from "summer" to "global warming".... aahhahahha Mostly the chrome is in good shape. A couple of pieces are dinged/ dented from "road hazards" in the past, i imagine.. One of the rear bumper overriders is pretty well toasted. The taillights are intact, but show some cracking internally.. I was afraid of hearing what you said -- the taillights are hard if not impossible to find.. The only broken lens is the one on the top of where the chrome on the back of the trunk says "Fluid Drive". I guess it is the license plate light. The trunk is a little rusty and that band around the back under the trunk is pretty well rusted as well. It looks like someone used lead foil (was there such a thing?) to temporarily fix that part.. The door sills are rusted and there's a nice hole right above the master cylinder. Other than that.. when I go to remove what I think is rust on the bottom of the car, it turns out to be some heavy undercoating... or some 45 year old georgia red clay... i'm really amazed at the structure of this thing.. if it were built today, I believe it would be a terrifically expensive piece of machinery what with all the extra gusseting that today is considered "overkill". The cowl vent leaks... not a whole lot, but i found out when i washed it, it does indeed leak .. can't wait to use that 55 mph A/C ... LOL Just got the generic wiring harness today in the mail.. woohoo! Can't wait to see how difficult it's going to be to install.. I think I'm going to have to re-use a majority of the old connectors... lots of soldering.. > On Aug 6, 3:09 pm, <CountFl...@MonsterChillerHorrorTheater.com> wrote: > > [quoted text clipped - 39 lines] > I'm going to have to re-use a majority of the old connectors... lots > of soldering.. Look at Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts. Great source for all old Chrysler parts. The cowl vent is no problem, as are complete gasket sets, door/window handles, lenses, check it out. Signature"What do you mean there's no movie?" On Aug 6, 10:31 pm, <CountFl...@MonsterChillerHorrorTheater.com> wrote: > Look at Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts. Great source for all old Chrysler > parts. The cowl vent is no problem, as are complete gasket sets, > door/window handles, lenses, check it out. excellent site! Thanks! > The cowl vent leaks... not a whole lot, but i found out when i washed > it, it does indeed leak .. They usually do. You can adjust them to clamp closed a bit tighter, but unless the rubber seal is in good shape it'll leak a tad. > can't wait to use that 55 mph A/C ... LOL Warn your date you're about to open it if she's wearing a skirt. Or don't.... ;-p > > The cowl vent leaks... not a whole lot, but i found out when i washed > > it, it does indeed leak .. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Warn your date you're about to open it if she's wearing a skirt. Or > don't.... ;-p LOL... i'm the type that wouldn't warn anyone except a relative or old lady.. > The thing only has 92,000 original miles on it. Wouldn't that be considered a lot of mile between rebuilds for that vintage (materials and motor oils of the day)? Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') > > The thing only has 92,000 original miles on it. > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with the letter 'x') I reckon it could be considered such. My dad said he drove the thing 750 miles right before he put it in storage for those 27 years and it ran pretty well. Obviously, "ran great when parked" doesn't really mean anything when the rings are stuck in the pistons.. >> The thing only has 92,000 original miles on it. > > Wouldn't that be considered a lot of mile between rebuilds for that > vintage (materials and motor oils of the day)? My '49 Plymouth went about 120,000 miles before its first overhaul (which my granddad had done in 1964 for about $300- and the engine still runs today after that overhaul). It was still running at the time he decided to overhaul it- Mopar flaheads were a lot tougher than a number of contemporaries. The Chevy Stovebolt six was a crappy lawnmower engine by comparison (splash oiling whereas the Mopar had full pressure), and the Ford flathead v8s had a lot more problems with overheating and consequent damage. Its pretty darn hard to wear out a Mopar flathead from the 40s to the point where it just wont run anymore. So yes, it may be getting close to overhaul time, but its likely got a good bit of life left based purely on mileage- certainly enough to fire up and run. Sitting for 27 years probably did it more harm than the 92k miles, though. >I recently pulled my uncle's 1949 chrysler Royal out of storage. It > was sitting for 27 years in the garage... anyway, aside from the > wiring being totally useless and in need of replacement, the only > problem i have is the engine has no compression. I have put marvel > mystery, motor oil, even a little gear oil down the cylinders, but no > return of the compression. Lack of compression could be stuck valves, a rudimentry form of leakdown testing could be performed by positioning each cylinder to TDC on the firing stroke and injecting compressed air through the spark plug hole to check for the sourse of the leakage. Pressurized sump points to stuck rings, air escaping from the intake or exhaust indicates stuck valves. > >I recently pulled my uncle's 1949 chrysler Royal out of storage. It > > was sitting for 27 years in the garage... anyway, aside from the [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Pressurized sump points to stuck rings, air escaping from the intake or > exhaust indicates stuck valves. I will definitely try that! Thanks! > I recently pulled my uncle's 1949 chrysler Royal out of storage. It > was sitting for 27 years in the garage... anyway, aside from the [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > at least get it running before I have to do that. The thing only has > 92,000 original miles on it. Mopar flatheads tend to get very sticky valves when parked for a long time, and they have pretty light valve springs so the valves may stick open when you crank the engine after a long period of sitting. You can drown all the cylinders in marvel mystery oil, rotate the engine by hand a few times (with the plugs out) and then let it soak on the valve stem seals for a week or so, then crank it over (still with the plugs out) to clear the oil and then test compression. But after 27 years, it could be too much for mystery oil to un-stick, and it could also be that the rings are completely shot from scraping on surface-rusted cylinder walls. > > I recently pulled my uncle's 1949 chrysler Royal out of storage. It > > was sitting for 27 years in the garage... anyway, aside from the [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > and it could also be that the rings are completely shot from scraping on > surface-rusted cylinder walls. yeah, ideally i should have just pulled the motor out and reconditioned it from the get go. too bad i didn't really realize what a sweet car it is until a few years ago. I was wondering if it's possible to access the valves without removing the manifolds? > I was wondering if it's possible to access the valves without removing > the manifolds? On the passenger side front tire, remove it and there is a panel on the wheel well, remove that and you should see the side valve cover. Make sure that you have a new gasket, which you can order from Bernbaum. The cover is held on with two wing type nuts, easy to remove. Signature"What do you mean there's no movie?" On Aug 8, 11:30 am, <CountFl...@MonsterChillerHorrorTheater.com> wrote: > > I was wondering if it's possible to access the valves without removing > > the manifolds? [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > -- > "What do you mean there's no movie?" Awesome! I truly value your (and the others as well) information on this car. I wish I had paid attention to the car about 10 years ago.. Now, I am way more thoughtful than I was at age 21.. however, the engine might not now be in the condition of stuck-open valves had i been as thoughtful then.. ah well.. it will run soon! > I was wondering if it's possible to access the valves without removing > the manifolds? Define "access." IIRC, you can get to the cover and remove it and look around (and maybe even compress some of the springs) with the manifolds in place. But I don't think you can get a spring compressor at all of them without removing at least the exhaust pipe, if not the manifold itself. If you're just going to inspect/clean/unstick things then give it a try. Remember, you can remove the hole fender to improve access, if necessary. Not that big a job. > > I was wondering if it's possible to access the valves without removing > > the manifolds? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Remember, you can remove the hole fender to improve access, if > necessary. Not that big a job. Indeed, what you say is what I intend to do... just try initially to free the valves via the valve covers. I went out and sprayed all the fasteners with PB B'laster on the inner fender... let me tell you.. that is one hell of an inner fender... i was expecting some dinky sheet metal cover where i could barely get my arm in there... however, i found a huge piece of heavy sheet metal with like 10 screws holding it in.. LOL... I know why we won WW2... really .. it's obvious if you work on anything from that period. It's so hard to understand why so many people have embraced socialist ideals in the past 60 years.. I love this car.. It restores my faith in America.. maybe someday we'll get the gov't out of our pockets and back to the way things used to be... but i'm not going to hold my breath. And I apologise for everything I say turning into some half-assed political statement... LOL Well, I finally had time to remove the cylinder head from the engine. Bad news, #5 cylinder is galled like a mo-fo... has some really deep "marks" at the back end of the thing. Looks like it was probably done quite some time ago. I'm pretty certain it would ruin a hone in a heartbeat. Can these engines be bored ? Would I be better looking for a "new" block? I was looking at the top of the block and it looks like there's not much room to bore the cylinders any wider. Also, I've managed to remove the 6 intake valves so far.. Can't get the exhausts to come out yet.. Is there an easy way to remove the valve springs from the engine? This is the first flathead from which I've tried to remove the valves.. I assumed it was going to be quite a bit easier than it is. I haven't managed to get any of the springs out yet.. I've removed collets from all the valves. Unfortunately, I now need to remove the oil pan to retrieve half of one.. those oil return holes are in such a convenient location! I've managed to remove one spring retainer so far... but that's it. I'm going to go out and see if I can do better this morning. If it's this hard to get these crusty, weak springs out, I can't imagine how difficult it's going to be to install the new parts! I'm thinking more and more this is going to require a complete overhaul, possibly including a different block... it's no problem to me, but didn't want it to cost so much initially.. > Well, I finally had time to remove the cylinder head from the > engine. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Can these engines be bored ? Oh yeah, they can be bored. The castings are very thick. The critical thing will be finding out what step oversize pistons are available. > Would I be better looking for a "new" > block? I was looking at the top of the block and it looks like > there's not much room to bore the cylinders any wider. Intersting thought- the "big" Chrysler six was made as an industrial engine for a long, long, time (into the late 60s) so finding one is possible. But >I'm thinking more and more this is going to require a complete >overhaul, possibly including a different block... it's no problem to >me, but didn't want it to cost so much initially.. The block can be bored. Don't see any reason it couldn't be sleeved if the damage is tooo much to take out. Can't offer any help on getting the valve springs out. Steve B. >Well, I finally had time to remove the cylinder head from the >engine. [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] >overhaul, possibly including a different block... it's no problem to >me, but didn't want it to cost so much initially.. Ah, ya got me thinking back some 30 years... Back then I did a valve job on several sidevalve (L-head) engines. As I remember, you would just remove the tappet covers on the side of the block and with a special L-Head valve spring compressor (looks like a giant tweezer), compress the valve springs until the keepers are removed and then each assembly would easily come apart. The valve is then extracted from the top of the engine , the springs are removed from the side cover cavity and away you go.... I even used the suction cup type hand valve twirlers,Prussian blue and grinding compound to resurface the valve seats. Doug > with a special L-Head valve spring compressor (looks > like a giant tweezer), When I was first learning to tinker with engines and rebuilding a one-lung Kohler back in the early 70s, my Dad dug out his valve-spring compressor like you describe. He told me you had to have a "regular" valve spring compressor for side-valve engines and couldn't use the "special kind for overhead valve engines." :-) compress the valve springs until the keepers > are removed and then each assembly would easily come apart. The valve > is then extracted from the top of the engine , the springs are removed > from the side cover cavity and away you go.... That's my recollection too- you cannot get the springs out unless you lift the valves to get the stems up high enough to let the springs slide out. To install, you have to hold the compressed spring "stack" (with retainer and any shim needed) in place and drop the valve through it, stick the keepers on the stem (thick grease works great) and carefully release the spring comprssor so that the retainer captures the keepers. > I even used the suction cup type hand valve twirlers,Prussian blue and > grinding compound to resurface the valve seats. Yep, that Kohler was the first and last time I ever did that job, too. With the advent of hardened valve seats and 3-angle valve jobs, grinding just kinda faded into the sunset. On Sep 5, 12:16?am, Doug <sparks06524nos...@ The valve > is then extracted compress the valve springs until the keepers > are removed and from the top of the engine , Doug and et al And the keepers start their journey to the oil pan unless the oil drip passages/holes are blocked. Then the oil pan and probably the engine comes out for sure! If the OP is going to keep this car it is time to pull the engine and get on with things. Bob AZ > On Sep 5, 12:16?am, Doug <sparks06524nos...@ > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > passages/holes are blocked. Then the oil pan and probably the engine > comes out for sure! yeah of course, i didn't read the Motor's manual until after I dropped the collet into the engine. It says plainly to put a rag over the holes. > If the OP is going to keep this car it is time to pull the engine and > get on with things. ......... you make it sound like flathead sixes are easily found nowadays.. I've only seen a couple so far for sale on the internet... none really seemed like anything to woohoo about. The best lead so far is a 218 from a truck in Baltimore, but that's a bit far for right now. >>On Sep 5, 12:16?am, Doug <sparks06524nos...@ >> [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > best lead so far is a 218 from a truck in Baltimore, but that's a bit > far for right now. Just rebuild what you've got. The average corner machine shop that does 50 small-block Shivvies a week may not want to do it, but its still a routinely serviced engine. LOTS of old industrial equipment is still running around with Chrysler flathead power, not to mention collectors' cars. >......... you make it sound like flathead sixes are easily found >nowadays.. I've only seen a couple so far for sale on the >internet... none really seemed like anything to woohoo about. The >best lead so far is a 218 from a truck in Baltimore, but that's a bit >far for right now. You already have an engine. Just rebuild it. The parts are still available and you can find a local machine shop to do that kind of stuff. A couple of thoughts for you from a guy that has old Chrysler products. Find a mailing list for people with your era of car. For example I am a member of the Imperial Mailing List, c-body mailing list and Forward Look mailing list. Right now I'm sure it seems like you are the only one in the world doing what you are doing but there are lots of folks in to the same things and they can be an invaluable resource for finding parts and information. This is a great group but truthfully there probably aren't more than a handful of people here who have knowledge of this car. Unless you are going to totally mod the car don't go screwing around and putting the wrong parts on it. As great as you think the car is right now one day you will want to sell it and get something else. The more "screwed-with" the car is the lower its value to a serious collector and they are the ones willing to pay good money for a car. (throw this advice out the window if you are going to mod the whole car). I just sold a '68 Newport convertible that was shipped out of the country. The new buyer paid good money for the car specifically because it was "correct" and hadn't been modified. All the parts are still out there but they are a whole lot harder to find than '57 Chevy parts You are going to learn to have patience in this process! Seven years ago when I got my '59 Imperial I was horrible about wanting everything done NOW! After seven years with this Imperial I have totally been cured of this. The roadblocks are constant and it takes weeks to get stuff to get around the road blocks. One of the greatest things about this type of old car is that there aren't that many, so people love to see them. Honestly my '59 is now mechanically in excellent shape but still ain't pretty. When I take the car to local cruise nights you see the people run right past the row on fifty thousand dollar '57 Chevys to look at my 5 thousand dollar '59 Imperial. It's a tremendous amount of fun. Every time I stop with it there is someone that wants to know about the car standing there when I return. Also great fun. Steve B. Steve, You are correct... I know you didn't need me to tell you this, but I realised it after reading your 'article'... lol The car has been sitting for nearly 30 years already, so i definitely shouldn't expect it to be a fast restoration. I just need to get it going well enough (and safely enough) to ride around my 87 year old grand-dad ... he's really looking forward to riding in it again.. meant to say this in the last post, but .. guess i'd better get to work on this one as well... it's not getting any younger either. http://a25.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/98/l_961c29670556743ec963fce04b5969 40.jpg |
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