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Car Forum / Chrysler Cars / August 2007Radiator steam/overheating help *Pictures
Yesterday my wifes car started steaming in the driveway and popped up to 2 lines below HOT so we shut it off, today I took the radiator cross bar off and headlight and saw where the smoke is coming from, I took a picture. Anyone have any suggestions? <img src="http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb11/afxtwn/ IMAGE_010.jpg"> > Yesterday my wifes car started steaming in the driveway and popped up > to 2 lines below HOT so we shut it off, today I took the radiator [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > <img src="http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb11/afxtwn/ > IMAGE_010.jpg"> sorry, I guess posting pics inst possible. this is a clearer pic (all I had was my cell on me) http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb11/afxtwn/IMAGE_007-1.jpg She has a 1998 Concorde LXI 3.2l First picture http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb11/afxtwn/IMAGE_010.jpg >> Yesterday my wifes car started steaming in the driveway and popped up >> to 2 lines below HOT so we shut it off, today I took the radiator [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > She has a 1998 Concorde LXI 3.2l my diagnosis is you got a big a.s hole in the plastic sidetank of your radiator....... > >> Yesterday my wifes car started steaming in the driveway and popped up > >> to 2 lines below HOT so we shut it off, today I took the radiator [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Your a very astute man Mr. Mark. > Yesterday my wifes car started steaming in the driveway and popped up > to 2 lines below HOT so we shut it off, today I took the radiator [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > <img src="http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb11/afxtwn/ > IMAGE_010.jpg"> Ummm - your rardiator has a huge hole in it (plastic end cap). Time for a new radiator. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') > > Yesterday my wifes car started steaming in the driveway and popped up > > to 2 lines below HOT so we shut it off, today I took the radiator [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with the letter 'x') Well I know that :) thats why I took a pic of it. The radiator is only about 1.5 years old, any reason why it would do this? > > > Yesterday my wifes car started steaming in the driveway and popped up > > > to 2 lines below HOT so we shut it off, today I took the radiator [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > The radiator is only about 1.5 years old, any reason why it would do > this? Hey, it happens. Although I've not seem something like this before. A lot of radiator shops will 'recrimp' your plastic ends onto a new core, so that right there should tell you how durable the tanks usually are. Could it have been hit? > > > > Yesterday my wifes car started steaming in the driveway and popped up > > > > to 2 lines below HOT so we shut it off, today I took the radiator [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > - Show quoted text - I dont think it was hit although I could be wrong. Are the tanks replaceable? Ide rather not put another $300 radiator in this car when I plan on buying a new one soon none the less its like 5,000 degrees here in Houston :) One more question, Is this not just a part I can repair, flush the coolant system then refil it? The plastic part seems to vent out of the radiator crossbar so it seems like this hole is just another vent for a part meant to be a vent. I think she might have had low coolant levels making more hot air/steam vent out melting the plastic peice. am I correct here? > ...The plastic part seems to vent out of the radiator crossbar > so it seems like this hole is just another vent for a part meant to be > a vent. Say what!!?? > I think she might have had low coolant levels making more hot > air/steam vent out melting the plastic peice. > > am I correct here? Melt - no. (1) Fracture from pressure and heat, or (2) A weak part to begine with, or (3) A combination of (1) and (2) are the possibilities. You said this was a replacement radiator. Perhaps it is cheap - the plastic end tanks may be of inferior materials and/or ultra thin (think: Chinese). Also consider that, since apparently 2 radiators have failed in this car, something is causing/allowing this engine to overheat/overpressure, either gradually or in spikes. Correct pressure cap? Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') > > ...The plastic part seems to vent out of the radiator crossbar > > so it seems like this hole is just another vent for a part meant to be [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with the letter 'x') So I guess I was wrong.... The first radiator died after about or 8 years of service, this one seems to be junk now...sh.t..... Off to buy a new car manana then I guess. > Off to buy a new car manana then I guess. Replacing a car over a RADIATOR? Uh, that's kinda false economy, I think. Sorta like buying a new house because the downstairs faucet drips..... So this plastic POS isnt replacable? I have to replace the whole radiator? > So this plastic POS isnt replacable? I have to replace the whole > radiator? Without checking some radiator shops, I'm not sure the end cap is replaceable - it might be. But these days, even if you find some one to do it and that has a source of the parts, you don't save that much by repairing radiators. You've got the big chunk of the repair bill of R&R'ing the radiator in either case, and the difference will be the cost of new vs. labor and parts for the repairs - that could be a wash. And when you finish with the repaired one, you've still got a used radaitor that is either inferior quality or was overstressed in its previous life. You have to ask: Is the *other* end cap weakened? Better replace it too. It's generally better to replace the whole thing (which is why it's gegnerally hard to find shops around that will still do the refurb work. If it was me, I'd replace the radiator (with one with a lifetime warranty) and thermostst and then have the rest of the cooling system (fan operation, pressure bottle and cap, pump, hoses, other possible sources of leaks) thoroughly checked out. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') >> So this plastic POS isnt replacable? I have to replace the whole >> radiator? [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with the letter 'x') ALSO - how many miles on it, and have you ever replaced the timing belt and water pump? If not and it has over 105k miles on it, you're running on borrowed time. That absolutely needs to be done on schedule. And that would take care of wondering if the water pump is bad in your post repair assessment of the cooling system. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') > >> So this plastic POS isnt replacable? I have to replace the whole > >> radiator? [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Thats the reason I think im NOT goign to fix it, Im graduating from college in 3 months and will be buying a new car then. This car has 160,000 miles on it and has been a hellova car to us with few major problems. I replaced the radiator at about 130k I think. Im just not privy to sinking another 5-600 into this car Thanks for the help! > > >> So this plastic POS isnt replacable? I have to replace the whole > > >> radiator? [quoted text clipped - 39 lines] > problems. I replaced the radiator at about 130k I think. Im just not > privy to sinking another 5-600 into this car Some people have "fixed" plastic radiator tanks with JB Weld. Ted > One more question, > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > am I correct here? I've repaired a plastic radiator. I was in an accident and it shattered a piece. I was almost 1000 miles from home, and just needed 'something' to get out of there, so I took two bodywashers and managed to get one 'inside' where the break was and drilled a hole to use a bolt to 'pinch' the tub. I smeared a lot of epoxy all over the place. It was a hack repair. It got me a few hundred miles, but not home. However it broke at a DIFFERENT spot, not where I repaired it, so maybe the repair would have held forever, who knows. > > One more question, > [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > it broke at a DIFFERENT spot, not where I repaired it, so maybe the > repair would have held forever, who knows. What exactly does this plastic piece do? One more question Ive decided to just buy a new radiator, I can get one for like 120 shipped on ebay and put it in myself. Im pretty sure I need to get one with an engine oil cooler included. Am I correct on this? Here's the one im planning on purchasing. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chrysler-Concorde-3-2L-98-99-00-01-Radiator_W0QQc mdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33602QQihZ011QQitemZ320147790227QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW > One more question > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chrysler-Concorde-3-2L-98-99-00-01-Radiator_W0QQc mdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33602QQihZ011QQitemZ320147790227QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Yes - the OEM P/N they reference is correct for all '98 LH applications - that year does have both oil cooler and tranny cooler in the radiator, which they reference in the description. Looks like that's the one you need. Be sure to only use GL-05-type coolant - available at DC and Ford dealers; also Zerex makes a GL-05 - but Zerex makes several kinds of antifreeze - so if you get Zerex, make sure what you get says GL-05 on it (it's *not* the "All Makes All Models"). Zerex's and Ford's is yellow, DC/Mopar is reddish orange. DO NOT - REPEAT - DO NOT USE DexCool™/Prestone Extended Life™. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') > > One more question > [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with the letter 'x') Yikes, I think I just bought the first yellow 50/50 bottle at wally world. What would be the problem with using that stuff? >>...Be sure to only use GL-05-type coolant - available at DC and Ford >>dealers; also Zerex makes a GL-05 - but Zerex makes several kinds of [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > What would be the problem with using that stuff? It's not the right stuff. The G-05 (HOAT) is much better and doesn't have the problems of DexCool™ (OAT) or traditional antifreezes. There were a lot of lessons learned over the last few years with antifreeze (DexCool is an example of what *not* to do). Frod and GM wisely bypassed DexCool/OAT type and had Zerex develop G-05 from the lessons learned. It has proven to be excellent. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') > Frod and GM wisely > bypassed DexCool/OAT type and had Zerex develop G-05... In way too much of a hurry. "Ford and Chrysler wisely...". Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') > Frod and GM wisely > bypassed DexCool/OAT type and had Zerex develop G-05 from the lessons > learned. It has proven to be excellent. I'm sure you meant to say "Frod and CHRYSLER...." :-) And Mercedes, and Caterpillar, and Deere..... among others who use G-05 in some or all applications. >>DO NOT - REPEAT - DO NOT USE DexCool™/Prestone Extended Life™. >> [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > What would be the problem with using that stuff? Its not compatible with materials in your cooling systems and may cause excessive (and rapid) corrosion. Hell, even GM and Toyota have had horrible problems with it in their vehicles that are supposedly compatible. Especially as you're not planning to keep this vehicle forever, one help (with your replacement radiator) might be what a radiator repair guy advised me (after fixing my radiator): he said that he put a 7 pound cap on radiators on any old cars. Not a problem as long as you have an overflow tank, and puts a lot less stress on the other old parts... (You need to get this at a decent parts shop. Most places just look up your car on a computer and can't think past what the machine tells them is official...) >> One more question >> [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address > with the letter 'x') >>>Yesterday my wifes car started steaming in the driveway and popped up >>>to 2 lines below HOT so we shut it off, today I took the radiator [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > The radiator is only about 1.5 years old, any reason why it would do > this? Probably the fact that a whole lot of aftermarket radiators are made in China these days. I'd at least check to see if there is an all-metal aftermarket radiator available for that application- I've never liked plastic end-tanks, although (knock wood) my wife's car has almost 250k miles on its plastic radiator without any trouble... yet. :-/ > Yesterday my wifes car started steaming in the driveway and popped up > to 2 lines below HOT so we shut it off, today I took the radiator [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > <img src="http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb11/afxtwn/ > IMAGE_010.jpg"> Maybe I missed it, but what kind of vehicle is this including year Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech >>Yesterday my wifes car started steaming in the driveway and popped up >>to 2 lines below HOT so we shut it off, today I took the radiator [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Glenn Beasley > Chrysler Tech Glenn - his second post said a '98 Concorde LXi 3.2. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') > Yesterday my wifes car started steaming in the driveway and popped up > to 2 lines below HOT so we shut it off, today I took the radiator > cross bar off and headlight and saw where the smoke is coming from, I > took a picture. > > Anyone have any suggestions? Time for a new radiator. |
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